So I have my new Momo 6500 components sitting on the living room floor awaiting the order of an Infinity 111x4 amp and Alpine 9857 H/U.
Before I start tearing into my ’00 coupe this winter I want to educate myself as much as possible. Here is the list of question I have so far.
Question 1 – Currently I have replaced the Bose rear 6.5” with a pair of Boston coax 6.5” I am planning to run them off the Alpine H/U for convenience purely. Are they currently running off the Bose/Delco H/U or will I need to rewire them completely?
Question 2 – I am planning to mount the amp to the back wall in between the bump outs and run the components off of each channel, so Channel 1 will go to driver side set of components and Channel 2 will go to passenger side components. I have considered running them in parallel which would drop it to 2 Ohms and double the rms power but I’m not sure why I would need to do that. Thoughts?
Question 3 – I will be bridging the other two channels 3&4 to power my JL 10W0 that I’ve had since High School. Sound reasonable?
I’m trying to install a budget system with decent sound quality. I can pick up the 9857 for $280 shipped with an iPod cable and the Infinity amp for $150 both off of that auction site.
First off your rear speakers will require no change in wiring at all.
Run each speaker off its own channel, do not try to wire them in parallel etc, there is no good way to wire the speakers other then one to its respected channel.
Bridging channels 3 and 4 to your sub is fine as long as its a 4ohm sub.
All and all sounds like you will have nice little setup, those speakers are kick ass as well
Answer 1: i'd suggest running a new large wire (at least 16 awg to get the best current flow possible) most head units have a decent internal amp of 12W RMS/50W peak/ channel. If you want to get the best possible sound from your head unit, upgradeing the speaker wire is an easy cost effective way to do it.
Answer 2: I wouldn't run them in parallel. Assuming your components have Xovers, your best bet is to just run the speaker wire to the Xover and the Xover to the tweeter and woofer
Answer 3: As long as your 3/4 channels have a seperate low pass Xover you sould be fine
First off your rear speakers will require no change in wiring at all.
Run each speaker off its own channel, do not try to wire them in parallel etc, there is no good way to wire the speakers other then one to its respected channel.
Bridging channels 3 and 4 to your sub is fine as long as its a 4ohm sub.
All and all sounds like you will have nice little setup, those speakers are kick ass as well
Thanks!
The JL is actually a DVC 8ohm sub... Should I run a seperate channel (3 & 4) to each voice coil?
Answer 1: i'd suggest running a new large wire (at least 16 awg to get the best current flow possible) most head units have a decent internal amp of 12W RMS/50W peak/ channel. If you want to get the best possible sound from your head unit, upgradeing the speaker wire is an easy cost effective way to do it.
Answer 2: I wouldn't run them in parallel. Assuming your components have Xovers, your best bet is to just run the speaker wire to the Xover and the Xover to the tweeter and woofer
Answer 3: As long as your 3/4 channels have a seperate low pass Xover you sould be fine
Thanks for the reply. I might see how the rears sound, they are going to be mainly fill speakers, as the Polks will be handling the biggest part of the duty. But I'll keep the wire size thought in my back pocket in case it sounds like crap.
There is no gain at all to rewiring the rear speakers, i can guarantee you running it off the radio you will never notice the difference. For the sub run two voice coils in parallel to present a 4 ohm load and you will be good to go
Location: Frankenstein never scared me. Marsupials do, because their fassst…and they DART, THAT'S crazy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pentavolvo
...For the sub run two voice coils in parallel to present a 4 ohm load and you will be good to go
That's the best way to wire up your sub. Also, don't worry about rewiring the rear speakers, especially since you really don't need them to begin with. However, since you already have them running off the HU, you may as well see how they sound. Personally, I wouldn't even bother with rear speakers, not with those Momo's up front. Those and the sub running off a decent amp is all you really need.
That's the best way to wire up your sub. Also, don't worry about rewiring the rear speakers, especially since you really don't need them to begin with. However, since you already have them running off the HU, you may as well see how they sound. Personally, I wouldn't even bother with rear speakers, not with those Momo's up front. Those and the sub running off a decent amp is all you really need.
Any suggestions for a good amp to power the components and sub? Main goal is to keep the system cheap but sounding good. The wifey isn't exactly on the same stereo spending page as I am. I was able to squeek through the momo's and the $300 H/U but she might start to push back against a $300 amp as well...
You might want to check out the Rockford Fosgate T4004. From what i've read, you can wire it in 3 channel mode get 300W rms to your sub and 90w rms Each to your speakers. they're avalible on Ebay brand new for around $230.
(note: the actual power rating is much higher than the official power rating)
Any suggestions for a good amp to power the components and sub? Main goal is to keep the system cheap but sounding good. The wifey isn't exactly on the same stereo spending page as I am. I was able to squeek through the momo's and the $300 H/U but she might start to push back against a $300 amp as well...
i speak from experience with these amps in a 2.1 set up. You'll notice i ran the xtant in my last system (check the link in my sig) and before that i had the pg amp running the same set up for a while. Both will perform great with that sub and those speakers. The xtant will impress the crap out of you and the pg isn't all that much worse.
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'99 Navy Blue
Engine: Borlas, Vortech, HRE 547R, TTS headers, Engine built at A&A (220 - 224 Comp X-ER .581 lift, A&A Stage II ported LS1 heads)
Audio: Car-PC, Butler/Phaze Tube Amps, Dyn/Seas, Zapco, TC-sounds
I picked up a slightly used Polk Momo C400.4 tonight to power my system. I like the idea of using like components and I've heard very good things about the SQ from the Polk Amps.
Now I just need my head unit and I can begin the winter install
Corvette Store
wiring question
That's the best way to wire up your sub. Also, don't worry about rewiring the rear speakers, especially since you really don't need them to begin with. However, since you already have them running off the HU, you may as well see how they sound. Personally, I wouldn't even bother with rear speakers, not with those Momo's up front. Those and the sub running off a decent amp is all you really need.
