BlackMark

I soldered the RCAs I got at Radio Shack directly to the eight colored wires(white,gray,green,purple) from the add-GM-24 harness and didn't splice the RCAs from the south end of the OEM-1 box as you did.Is there a reason that I should not have done that? It sure looks nice and neat done that way,in any event!

TheKomoman

Nope, that's exactly the way I would have done it except my harness was already in the car and once connected to the radio is more than a little stubborn to remove!

alusk

I finally got a chance to test the Peripheral Electronics GMRAP and PXGM12 modules that I finally recieved and will be using to get true RAP power and switch in an iPod. These two products are about $50 each online.

The GMRAP module hooked right up with no modifications. It uses connections to +12V and ground (yellow and black) and a single wire to any Class 2 data source on the car (purple). The red wire outputs a switched power, up to 12A worth, which I assume is the capacity of the unit - you could pop a relay and get more if needed.

I plugged it into the A1 pin on the radio (orange wire in 2006 and 2007) for the Class 2 data with the power/ground to the console cig lighter plug and put a meter on the red wire to ground. It switched that between +12V and 0 in all the modes for RAP and the normal power until the door is opened. Looks like this thing is definitely an option for true RAP if you need it. There are also two splice blocks that are dedicated to distributing Class II data that can be tapped - one is just inboard of the Bose amplifier under the passenger footwell and easy to get at.

I'm also adding an iPod with a simple connection that spoofs the XM radio option in the car. The Peripheral PXGM12 (PACX also sells exactly the same thing as AAI-GM12) is the hardware. It is almost completely plug and play in 2006 and 2007 cars and exploits the 12-pin plug in the head unit. It actually can be used to add in 2 auxillary circuits which are selected via a switch.

The only change that is required is to re-route the ground from the black wire that gets to ground - the way it comes is through pin C of the connector which in 2006 and 2007 harnesses is not used. I just pulled that wire from both ends of the connector (along with three others that are "not used" as well) using some jewelers screwdrivers and it worked great.

The big advantage of this thing is that it uses CMOS switching versus low power relays so there are absolutely no pops or clicks an no loss that I could detect.

The downside is that you have to activate the XM channel and then switch in the other input(s) and there is no display indication. Thats not a big deal for me a the iPod is being driven by an HK Drive+Play which has its on controller and display that will be positioned for minimal distraction while driving.

The iPod sounded lightyears better than the FM and XM even though it was Bose amplified...

muncie21

Does your PAC module need a new home? If so, let me know.

TheKomoman

The module itself is intact, but the harnesses for either end have been hacked and in the case of the ADD-GM24 is in use.

If the black box itself is of any use to you, drop me a PM and we can figure something out.

robl45

If you use the add-gm24 unit and add rca cables to it, does it cause any problems with onstar or anything like that. Will everything still work correctly?

robl45

http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm

Has anyone tried this stuff? These guys used to make the best stuff in the world.

Steve Germany

The chimes will follow the HU volume but other than that there is no changes to the system.

beb111

is it a good stuff for corvette c6 2005 with Bose premium audio amplified ?
better sound ? RPO U65
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.ph...0&cat=0&page=1
thanks

beb111

not the good one, how can I do for a premium bose system if I want to install an aftermarket system, on my c6 2005

markcz

If all you want to do is add a new amp to the factory radio, check out THIS THREAD for how to make the adapter with 4-channels of full signal line-level outputs (the good one).

If you don't want to make the harness (or can't), the AOEM-GM24 should work as-is.

Silverado Desperado

TheKomoman,

I see the female RCA's you connected to the ADD-GM24 using the crimp on connectors. Did the crimp on connectors work out fine and static free in the long run with no need to solder them please?


I also see in the photo there are 4 male RCA's. Is that what plugs into the amp and then plugs in to the female RCA's you installed into the ADD-GM24?


Also, how should I use the 4 female RCA's to feed the front and rear speakers, and a sub,so that I can turn the sub volume down if it's too loud and still have the ability to adjust the Balance from Left to Right, and be able to Fade from Front to Rear please?

pentavolvo

No way to have fade and independent gain control. Can add a bass **** but its gotta be tied to either front or rear channels. Soldering is A must for the female rcas

idaband

also wondering what the male RCA plugs were for? Also might want to have a quick connect to pin B3 if you want a remote on / off for your amp.

markcz

The male plugs in the pic are the long wire coming in from the amp.

The BEST way to make the adapter is to solder on female plugs, then use a standard male-male cable to the amp.

One way to do it with minimal connections and expense (if you know you'll NEVER change anything) would be to buy a male-male cable long enough for your car. Snip the plugs off of one end, then connect the long cord to the Add-GM24 wires. You can solder, butt-splice, wire nut, or quick connect the wires together (it's your car).

SteveL2

Thrilled to have found this thread since I was getting ready to unknowingly put one of these in my car, as I'm replacing all speakers (other than the front center, which I'll use with my Parott Bluetooth) and adding a 5 channel amp.

Dumb question: given that I'm using a new amp, is there any reason to plug the second part of this harness back into the old one?

markcz

If you're asking about using a modified Add-GM24 to tap signals for a new amp, then yes, you still have to plug the Add-GM24 in between the radio and car or the radio will never turn on.

If you're using the wires that came with an AOEM, then no, you don't have to use the AOEM module itself, only the cable that came with it which you'd modify as this thread shows, or LIKE THIS.

SteveL2

Fantastic forum and thanks to you patient and smart folks that guide along the way. Following this thread and others, I'm adding a contribution with my harness below.



It's the same as shown earlier in this thread, but this was my second round, after the initial install had a terrible alternator whine. I learned that some folks, myself included, can reduce this by grounding the RCA negatives to the factory head unit case.

So, I took the harness back out and each of the four harness ground wires (gray, white, green, purple, each with a black stripe) are soldered to a ground on an RCA plug, but I also soldered them to an additional wire, which is shown as white with a purple stripe. I then soldered all four white/purple striped wires together to a single wire (white with blue stripe), which is shown in the center of the picture and has a stripped end. There is a small Phillips screw on the back of the factory head unit and I attached this stripped end to the screw, thereby connecting to the ground on all four RCA connectors.

The good news is this entirely eliminated the alternator whine as I hear it.

The bad news is my teenagers, who still have the blessings of youthful hearing, still hear some residual whine. Funny thing is I can't, but I guess I'll still have to do some more troubleshooting (or try inline filters).

Peace.

markcz

Very nice

CalsCorvette

Thanks for the great pic! Will be making mine for my 2013 GS with Bose and Nav