How many layers of sound deadening material for the doors in a C6?

[Gundam]

Would I need to use 2 layers, or would 1 suffice?

[_Nomad_]

One layer would probably suffice but I always use at least two layers.

[Gundam]

About how many sq ft is needed to do both doors with 2 layers? I bought about 60 sq ft of edead. Would that be enough?

[_Nomad_]

Originally Posted by Gundam

I bought about 60 sq ft of edead. Would that be enough?

That would be MORE than enough!

You could probably do your back hatch area with one layer along with the doors with 60 sq. ft.

And if you want subs in the rear then you will want to do the hatch area.

[Gundam]

Originally Posted by _Nomad_

That would be MORE than enough!

You could probably do your back hatch area with one layer along with the doors with 60 sq. ft.

And if you want subs in the rear then you will want to do the hatch area.

Not planning on adding subs for now. But maybe I will do the hatch area for the hell of it.

[TMyers]

One layer on the inside of the outside fiberglass. Second layer on the inside of the door. That will make a very good set up. I will be doing this some time this week.

[greentank]

what are you guys using for sound deadening material? I have a bass buzz in my door I'd like to get rid of....but for me, going crazy with material in a vert seems a bit unnecessary.

[DPG]

you'll be very suprised as to how much of a nicer ride you get using a little bit of sound deadner. Sure it adds weight, but 90% of the people dont race the car in anyway excpet for the ocasional spirited acceleration. If you are looking to get rid of rattles and squeeks, i would look at a single layer of mat all around. as for what material to use, or what brand, look at edead. They are having a big sale on their v1 line

[TMyers]

I used products from Cascade Audio Engineering. For the trunk area and inside of the exterior door skins I used V-Max. Alot like Dynomat Extreme but the foil layer is not expossed. It is also very easing to apply, mush easier than Dynomat. V-Max is considered a Dampner and is light, about about .23lbs per square foot.

For the floor and tunnel I used VB3. This is a lead barrier with closed cell neoprene on either side. It is heavy at about 1lbs per square foot. It is considered a barrier and a insolater.

For the inner door panels I'm using VB-2. This is another dampner but is very thin and very light, .29lbs per square foot. This product is unique in the fact that it will stretch to almost 100% its orignal size. You cut your template then attach it to the door. Apply heat and work it until ever contour is is matched. Then cut your holes for speaker and wire and you done other than putting you door molding on.

If I had to do it over again I would of used VB3 on the rear wheel wells also. But it did make alot of difference anyway. I don't have any rattles anymore, road noise is down alot and the volume of the radio is down. I used approx 108 square feet of product do the entire inside. Probably could of used a bit less material if I really took my time and built templates but I'm a cut as you go guy. Total weight added about 50 lbs.