New System Configuration

[jeanlucpicard]

I am getting ready to jump in with both feet - not an audiophile - and wholesale swap out - DYI mode - my 2001 C5 convertible factory Bose system for a new in-dash navigation and audio system. I have zoomed in on: Pioneer Avic Z1 head unit JL Audio 500/5 amplifier JL Audio W10W3 subwoofer / Stealthbox assembly Looking for knowledgeable help on replacement speakers for front and rear 4 locations that deliver crisp highs and mid-range / full range at low volumes (I listen to Sarah Brightman, Moody Blues, Andre Bocelli, Haley Westenra, that sort of thing) to integrate in with the above components. I used to own a set of Heil AMT 3B rock monitors with air motion transformers hooked up to a 1000 watt RMS Epicure amp / pre-amp home audio system that were AWESOME but have not seen anything since that comes close. I can handle the dash cut / modifications but do not know what wiring apparatus or speakers will be needed to provide clean crisp low distortion and no hum / hiss music while I cruise. I have not purchased any of the above components and so am completely open to knowledgeable feedback - "help me Obi Wan, you're my only hope". I plan to go spend a wheel barrow full of $$ in a couple of days so any input is welcome and appreciated Thanks for your time. Save the wave

[scott_fx]

I always say check out the eclipse line of head units. they are producing some great hardware with great sound quality.

check out cdt for some components at a wide range of prices or even the elemental designs components. though i dont have any experience with the ed components I've heard a lot of good things about them (and thier subs, and amps)

read the faq for some important information that you'll need to know if you're doing a total system upgrade (namely where to find the acc lead to tap off of)

have fun

[simpleman68]

Sounds like you'll be having some fun.

Keep in mind that no mobile audio environment can possibly sound as good as even an average studio monitor with a clean amp.
The accoustics are drastically different.

That being said, you said you weren't an audiophile, then went on to lay out some basic expectations that are beyond what many average mobile audio speakers can reproduce.
I want to be sure I understand your wants/needs before guiding you with a system purchase.

What you described will not be reproduced very well by the JL lineup.
I'm not bashing them as they make a nice middle of the road set-up, but they are not known for their excellent imaging, colorless reproduction and clarity. The Pioneer also has 1 bit D/A processing in it which is nearly the same as you'd get in a discman joggers run with. I use my Avic N1 for DVD and Navi, but a separate HU for sound quality.
Multi bit DAC's will be important and can be had for a reasonable $.

I was out of the mobile audio game for years and recently got serious about a good system again. I spent a few $$'s that I didn't need to and maybe I can save you the same.

1. How important is sound quality to you?
2. What is your budget roughly?

Scott

[BarryK]

in my opinion spend for as good of a front componet speaker system as you can afford and the rear speakers are not important. If you insist on rear speakers than get something decent but in most cases, especially call cars like a Corvette rear speakers aren't needed.

As for speaker brand and model selection the only way to choose is to go around to a number of car audio shops (specialty shops - not big box stores like Circut city, Best Buy, etc) and listen to various sets and see what you like the sound of. YOU are the one that has to listemn to the speakers so you need to know what you like the sound of.
When listening to speakers listen to them thru the same model amp you are buying if possible or at the very least the same power level per channel of amp. This means if you are buying a 50 watt/channel amp (as an example) don't listen to the speakers thru a 25 wpc amp or a 75wpc amp.
Take in your own prerecorded CD discs to listen to that you know very well and listen carefully to the differences between the speakers. When you hear a set you like you will know it. Many will sound very, very similar than all of a sudden you will hear one that just pops at you and says they are the ones you have to have.
here is a good page to read for basic tips of how to listen to speakers to evaluate them: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=96

Theoretically all speakers should sound the same as the only job a speaker has is to accuratlly reproduce the music as transparently as possible without introducing any coloration of it's own but realistically that never happens and pretty much every speaker you hear has it's own particualar "sound" to it. Some are better in the highs, some have more accurate midrange, etc. Some sets have better passive crossovers than other sets, etc and all of this is important to the overall sound and quality of the speaker. Because of this you have to listen to them yourself and see what YOU like the sound of.
27 people on here can all tell you that "XYZ" is the best speaker on the market but you very well may listen to it and hate the sound of it but prefer the sound of speaker "DEF" instead. It's all very subjective.

Also, component speaker sets come with a basic passive crossover network to divide the frequencies between the midrange and tweeters but some brands also offer an upgraded, better quality crossover network that you can purchase seperately. If you are going with a very high-end speaker system you may want to look those upgraded crossovers if they are avaialble for the speakers you decide on as they can make a big difference in sound also quality also.

[simpleman68]

[quote=BarryK] As for speaker brand and model selection the only way to choose is to go around to a number of car audio shops (specialty shops - not big box stores like Circut city, Best Buy, etc) and listen to various sets and see what you like the sound of. YOU are the one that has to listemn to the speakers
Take in your own prerecorded CD discs to listen to that you know very well and listen carefully to the differences between the speakers. When you hear a set you like you will know it. QUOTE]

One point I failed to mention. Excellent advice
Scott

[jeanlucpicard]

Good advice from all of you. I know some of the "audiophile" buzzwords but could not tell a crosssover from a coaxial setup if it stood up and bit me on the butt. I have already done a complete "stem to stern" installation of sound dampner and deadner (brown bread and LComp) in the car to reduce roadnoise (a lot of work but worth the effort). I am a gear head so I have cam, head, long tube headers, 437 RWHP, etc and a Z06 suspension with the stock F45 ride control. I do my own work.

I want to install a navigation system for road trips and a really clean and crisp audio system. I do not need a lot of bells and whistles but am not knowledgeable in what makes a speaker system integration work. From what I have read I believe I need around 250 watts for a subwoofer and about 50 watts per channel for the speakers. Now how that all connects so the signals do not short something out or blow up a component I have not the slightest idea.

I want to do the install myself, especially since the Eclipse navigation system and DVD front / rear system installed by Ford in my 2005 Expedition was a horrible installation and I spent a lot of effort getting Ford to correct the work. I do not intend to go through that again.

Mechanically, no one touches my Vette. Audio-wise, I need a lot of help and am astute enough to know what I do not know.

So, any ideas on a solid reliable system that plays and sounds clean when listening to classical music, Moody Blues, Sarah Brightman, etc and how it all hooks together wouyld be appreciated.

[jeanlucpicard]

Budget is not an issue. I would like to stay under $4,000 but will go with what works and is reliable. Reliability, quality and sound are the important items to me. That and a really detailed idiot-proof set of instructions

[simpleman68]

[quote=jeanlucpicard]Good advice from all of you. I know some of the "audiophile" buzzwords but could not tell a crosssover from a coaxial setup if it stood up and bit me on the butt. I have already done a complete "stem to stern" installation of sound dampner and deadner (brown bread and LComp) in the car to reduce roadnoise (a lot of work but worth the effort). I am a gear head so I have cam, head, long tube headers, 437 RWHP, etc and a Z06 suspension with the stock F45 ride control. I do my own work.

++ I am in the same boat as you. 450 rwhp 3X H/C package from Cartek, Kooks LT's, catless and GHL's. They make some noise and my current set up can cleanly play loud enough to drown out the exhaust all together
Clean power is the key.

I want to install a navigation system for road trips and a really clean and crisp audio system. I do not need a lot of bells and whistles QUOTE]

++ I'm not into that stuff either. Most of todays decks have lots of cutesy pie graphics and needless crap on them. Wish I lived close enough to you to compare notes. I think my set up is similar to what you'll be wanting.
Scott

[DPG]

i too was really confused when i first got here. But after a few months i started to pick up and learn a few things. The best advice from a novice like myself is to take your time. You've already sound deadened your car which is a very important step. So you are on the right track. Start with a head unit and go from there. Then go onto a set of components and get an amp to match what the components power requirements are. Just ask a bunch of questions here and im sure you will at the least get pointed in the right direction. These guys here have not steered me wrong yet. Im very happy with my current setup thanks to these guys

[scott_fx]

honestly, 50 wrms isn't enough with your setup. First the power you'll need will be based on the components you choose but any of the upper end component systems will be starving under 75 wrms. If you end up with a 3 way setup up even 75 wrms is on the low side.

you said you didnt know the differences between coaxial and components. well coaxials are a compromise of sorts it's an all-in-one speaker with the 'woofer', tweeter, and x-over in one neat package. downside to this is that the quality of components are usually below a component system and the x-overs are sub bar (usually just a cap wired inline to protect the tweeters) Components on the other hand give you versitile mounting options and use far superior technology. (x-overs at the very least)
here is a link to give you a visual representation of what the difference in the speakers are:
http://www.cdtaudio.com/classic_series.htm

another option for you is to get a seperate h/u and nav screen. this will give you the flexibility to focus on sq while still having nav. OR...go the route I choose and go with a car computer.

[jeanlucpicard]

Looks like the CL 641/3-Way speaker setup would cover the front and rear locations and offer solid sound range and quality. I like the independent tweeter, mid range and mid bass capability since I am looking to install a subwoofer in the trunk to handle the low range. I was looking at the JL Audio stealthbox 10" subwoofer since it would fit the trunk slot but do you have an option in mind that would compliment the CL speakers better?

[BarryK]

I'm not usually a fan of 3-way componets myself over an excellent 2-way component set. A high quality, nice sounding 6.5" 2-way component set in the fronts can sound great, especially with a very good quality passive crossover network or if you want to go all out get an electonic 3-way crossover and divide the amp channels for Highs, mids, and sub.
I really don't think you need the rear speakers but if you insist, than it's your money. You may wish to than consider a high quality coaxial speaker or even just a 6.5" midrange/midbass speaker for the rears. It's really almost a waste of money to run full componenets in the back for rear fill as they should only be playing at a much lower volume anyway. If you hear them and know they are there than they are too loud.