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i wouldnt epoxy it to the car unless that was my last resort. if you're going to have the amps directly behind the seats then i probably would try to see if there was a way i could make the board in a lazy 'l' shape (to follow the contour of the wall behind the seat) and then see if i can mount it using the existing seat bolts (maybe get some longer grade 8 bolts an a metal strap to secure the bottom part of the 'L'. doing it this way you dont have to worry about supporting downward force because the floor of the car will do that, and then bolting it to the existing seat bolts will take care of lateral forces and keep the amp rack in its place. i'm not sure if this could be done...but worth looking into. onther option is to silicone or liquid nail a piece of wood under the carpet against taht vertical wall and then use that as a base to mount the amp rack to. this way it can be removed further down the line.
if you are talking about the area behind the seats....in the 'trunk' area. if you have a vert you can get away with a friction fit since you have the waterfall to protect youfrom flying amps in the event of an accident. if not, apply the silicone technique that i described above to that location.
check out the link in my sig for some pictures of mine (done with a friction fit method)
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'99 Navy Blue
Engine: Borlas, Vortech, HRE 547R, TTS headers, Engine built at A&A (220 - 224 Comp X-ER .581 lift, A&A Stage II ported LS1 heads)
Audio: Car-PC, Butler/Phaze Tube Amps, Dyn/Seas, Zapco, TC-sounds
My Car PC Install
2003 Honda Cbr600RR
2001 Volvo S60 t5
1997 Suzuki Gsx-R 750
Old Car:
1993 Mazda Rx7 R1
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