I'm going to build a .7 cu/ft box for the rear compartment in my 02 coupe. Going to run a 10" sub, and keep the rest of the system stock for now. Listen to mostly rock, and want to feel the bass, but not be a ghetto blaster. Also want an amp with remote bass control like a Rockford or JL 500/1.
Will ~200 watts be enough, or should I go for more?
Previous system in my truck had 150 Watts going to a 10" Bazooka and it was loud enough for me.
200 isn't much. .7 sealed is a small enclosure. 500 to a JL10w3, ID10v.3, or EDe10v2. This will provide headroom which will give you tighter, more accurate bass with little effort from the amp. Keep the gains low and you will be fine.
but you can get some nice bass with 200 watts (especially in the open cockpit design of a vette). my first system (when i was in highschool) had 150 watts to a jl10w1 and it had a nice kick. nothing mind numbing but it was still nice.
How did you wire up the subwoofer? Dual 2 ohm voice coils = 1 ohm to the amp in parallel, and 4 ohms in series... correct?
Looks like that amp is not 1 ohm stable, and does not deliver max power into 4 ohms. Wouldn't the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel been a better match?
How did you wire up the subwoofer? Dual 2 ohm voice coils = 1 ohm to the amp in parallel, and 4 ohms in series... correct?
Looks like that amp is not 1 ohm stable, and does not deliver max power into 4 ohms. Wouldn't the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel been a better match?
I went with the 4 ohm setup. I was more interested in sound quality than volume. I figured it if didn't meet my needs I could always buy a 10w3v2-D4 and try again. It's loud enough for my tastes as it is though.
How did you wire up the subwoofer? Dual 2 ohm voice coils = 1 ohm to the amp in parallel, and 4 ohms in series... correct?
Looks like that amp is not 1 ohm stable, and does not deliver max power into 4 ohms. Wouldn't the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel been a better match?
If the amp is not 1 ohm stable you don't want to run it at 1 ohm. It may make it put out more power but it won't last. You need the resistance to decrease the amount of current, even if it means the amp is not putting out as much power. When you run the amp at a lower resistance than it is rated, it will keep overheating and shutting off until eventually you blow the amp. I had a Kicker L7 with dual 2 ohm voice coils, and ran it parallel (1 ohm) on a 1 ohm stable amp and I still had problems with the amp overheating. Go with the 4 ohm setup (series) and just avoid the headache.
How did you wire up the subwoofer? Dual 2 ohm voice coils = 1 ohm to the amp in parallel, and 4 ohms in series... correct?
Looks like that amp is not 1 ohm stable, and does not deliver max power into 4 ohms. Wouldn't the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel been a better match?
Sorry, forgot to give my 2 cents on your second question... Unless you want to get a bigger amp, I would go with the dual 4 ohm voice coil sub assuming that your amp is 2 ohms stable. If you run the sub in parallel the amp will only see 2 ohms of resistance, and you will get the most bang for your buck.
But if you’re not set on that amp, as mentioned by someone earlier your best option would be to get an amp rated at 400-500 watts at 4 ohms. Then you could get the dual 2 ohm voice coil sub and run it in series. This will almost guarantee you no heating issues and you can keep the gain lower so you don’t have to push the amp so much.
So what is the difference in 400 Watts into 4 ohms, vs. 400 watts into 2 ohms? Assume 2 different setups where the amp and sub are matched, and the amp delivers 400 watts to the sub.
I have heard that 2 ohm setups are a little noiser and muddier, but hit harder.
you wonn't really notice the difference in the sub frequencies but the amp will last longer running four ohms. think of it this way. you have a v8 pushing 400 hp (4 ohms) vs a 4cyl pushing 400 hp (2 ohms) they are both putting out the same hp but the v8 internals aren't stressed as much.
that being said...i'm running my amp at 2 ohms without a problem.
As long as the amp is designed to handle the ohm load the sub will sound no different or muddier and Scott I am gonna have to slightly disagree with you as long as the amp is 2 ohm stable running it like that is not hurting its life at all
So I have narrowed my choices for a sub to JL 10W3v2-D4, Rockford P310D4 or Alpine type R SWR-1042D. I want to run dual 4 ohm in parallel and will find a 300 Watt 2 ohm stable amp.
For amps, looking at Rockford P3001. 300 watts into 2 ohms, and remote bass. Really want remote bass control.
That amp will actually work pretty well and it does have the bass knob personally i dont like rockford subs at all and I like the alpines so i would go with the type R, but it can handle more power as well then the 300 so you should be pretty good. Personally I'd spend a few extra bucks and get an amp that puts out closer to 500wrms
As long as the amp is designed to handle the ohm load the sub will sound no different or muddier and Scott I am gonna have to slightly disagree with you as long as the amp is 2 ohm stable running it like that is not hurting its life at all
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How much power needed for 10" sub
but you can get some nice bass with 200 watts (especially in the open cockpit design of a vette). my first system (when i was in highschool) had 150 watts to a jl10w1 and it had a nice kick. nothing mind numbing but it was still nice.
