What do you guys do to stop your doors / speaker grills from ratlling with aftermarket speakers/amps? I've tried dynamat extreme, but not good enough. Would a subwoofer in the trunk help? Thanks.
__________________ WRECKED...I miss this car!!!!! 224/224 114 Cam, Kooks 1 3/4, Hi Flow Cats, LS6 Intake, 3.90's, PT 2400, Z06 Exhaust, K&N, 160 Thermostat, Kool Sox, Tunnel Plate, Z06 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Hotchkis Sway Bars, Eradispeeds, Toyos, V1, Alpine, Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Image Dynamics Sub/Subthump, MB Quarts, Dynamat, Worked Tranny and Cooler, etc. 370 rwhp & 331 torque 12.3 @ 113 on 22 psi Toyo's.
I use the stick-on household door hollow tube insolation around the speaker hole and new door securing pins whenever I finalize the install in the doors.
Maybe you can charge me and build a set for me? Let me know.
Well, lemme see how it all comes out first, finishing, etc. And of course, how it sounds. Since I have no fiberglass experience I am probably using way more materials than I should and it takes me A LOT of time.
If you aren't like Cajundude (trying to collapse your skull via a high sound pressure level ) then a box from Subthump and a JLAudio 10w3v2 sub will probably serve your purpose.
If you aren't like Cajundude (trying to collapse your skull via a high sound pressure level ) then a box from Subthump and a JLAudio 10w3v2 sub will probably serve your purpose.
Actually I have no idea what this system will do. I haven't installed a big system since 1988. I'm sure technology has changed since then. I am trying to set up a system for sound quality and not spl. That is why I went with the 10w6s instead of the 10w7s. I tend to go overboard with things, especially if I do the stuff myself. I take pride in something if I've done it and it looks good.
Here is what will be running with them:
Head unit (undecided)
(2) JL Audio 10w6v2 subs powered by JL 1000/1
Focal 165K2P components powered by JL 300/2
Lotsa big wires
Alumapro 15 Farad cap
With all the enclosure work you've been doing, I assumed you were preparing a show car which needs to kick @ss more than a "standard" listening-while-driving setup would.
For my coupe I went for:
Alpine CDA-9813 head unit
Alpine MRD-M605 sub amp powering a JLAudio 10w3v2-D2 sub.
Alpine MRV-f345 component amp powering JLAudio VR525-CXi (rear) and XR650-CSi (front) satellites.
6 guage power and ground, 16 guage speaker wire.
Fatmat sound deadening, with an extra layer of Frost King in the doors.
I have not tried it out yet with the top off.. my driving is limited until I get the amp rack complete. But with the top on, it's almost enough to make your ears bleed. After a certain volume level it all turns to noise as far as the brain is concerned.
The single sub is enough to make the car vibrate. I may later try out a 12 inch one in order to get a little deeper base but I can't even image what 2 subs would be like.
With all the enclosure work you've been doing, I assumed you were preparing a show car which needs to kick @ss more than a "standard" listening-while-driving setup would.
Nope, no stereo show car, never been in one. Yep, I tend to go overboard. You haven't seen the half of it. I ripped the interior completely out and used 160 sq. ft. of deadener as well. After the deadening I wired everything for the new upcoming system before I put the interior back together. I used Stinger 0 AWG for the power, 0 AWG for the ground, Stinger Dream interconnects, 12 gauge remote turn on for the amps, and 80 feet of Stinger HPM twisted speaker wire.
BTW, nice system you have! I guess if the hatch blows off the back of the car when I turn it on, I'll rip it out and sell it.
Last edited by Cajundude@EnglandGreen; 08-25-2005 at 12:33 PM.
Ooohhhh, forgot to mention one thing. I WILL NOT be able to use my top latches with this setup. When test fitting in the beginning I could not find an angle that looked good with the mdf rings that I made and still be able to use the latches. I quit for the day and thought about it and decided that the recessed sub look was more important to me than being able to use the top latches. The latches could be used if I didn't flush mount the sub. I can however fit the top in the back still so I on the rare occasions that I take the top off I will probably rig something up and have the top in a bag or just leave it at home. I usually don't drive in the rain much.
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Doors Rattle with Speakers
) then a box from Subthump and a JLAudio 10w3v2 sub will probably serve your purpose. 
. You haven't seen the half of it. I ripped the interior completely out and used 160 sq. ft. of deadener as well. After the deadening I wired everything for the new upcoming system before I put the interior back together. I used Stinger 0 AWG for the power, 0 AWG for the ground, Stinger Dream interconnects, 12 gauge remote turn on for the amps, and 80 feet of Stinger HPM twisted speaker wire.
