Blaupunkt ODw1000 is a super thin subwoofer (3 in) that is available through Crutchfield (and it is/was on sale) that can directly replace the Bose 10in. I did not want a sub woofer box eating up all of the luggage space (and giving the car a "kids" car look). The sound is hundrds of times better than the self powered Bose inverted subwoofer.
I built a simple amp rack out of MDF, about 1 1/2 in off the rear deck with cut outs for each of the two amps. The subwoofers are powered through a single channel 300 watt Alpine subwoofer amp. I have also replaced the stock speakers with Boston Acoustics and I'm powering them with a JL Audio 4/300 amp.
I have not yet completed the wiring into the Head unit but I do have a great sounding IPOD right now!
1. I thought the speakers were no longer self powered, as they were in the C5. Not true?
2. Don't those 10 inchers in the door provide more than just sub bass? Are those the ones you replaces with these ultra thin subs?
3. What are you powering with the 4 channel amp? Just the tweeters and the rear channel?
4. How is it wired?
The proof is in the pudding - let us know how it sounds!
1) The C6 uses a self powered Bose subwoofers
2) The 10in Bose speakers only provide sub base (the upper 3 1/2 does the mid range and the highs.
3) I'm using two amps, a single channel subwoofer amp and a 4 channel amp. The single channel amp powers both subwoofers. The 4 channel amp powers the midrange / tweters in the door and the rear 5 1/4s (now in stereo)
4) The wiring is simple in the C6. I snaked two wires through each of the the doors (simple when that 10in sub is out - I used a spring, claw type part grabber) and under the kick pannels (they pop right out) and under the seat carpets back to my amp rack. Power comes directly from the battery into the rubber door boot and through the door kick pannel. Ground is from the passenger seat mount. You can't see one wire.
5) It absolutley sounds fantastic! It will not create the kind of bass that you can hear for blocks but high fidelity, door shaking, feel it in your gut kind of bass. The upgraded mid range / tweeters are at a good level to really provide clear presence. The back 5 1/4 really fill in the mid range and upper bass.
I am still waiting for my GM-24 that I will mod to hook in the IPOD and to the LS6 line level converter - then it will be complete..
Last edited by Steve Germany; 07-18-2005 at 08:11 AM.
Pretty cool! I'm thinking of upgrading my system - it's a vert, but the wiring and speakers should be the same. The only difference will be the placement of the rear speakers.
Sorry, but just a couple more questions. Where did you pull the wiring? From behind the head unit or near the exiting amp? You pulled out the existing amp, right? Which system did you have? I have 1SB with nav.
Finally, what do you think your approximate cost was?
Thanks - I've been looking for someone who has done mods on a stock head unit like this.
I have the 1SB with Nav as well and I have not made the connectios to the HU yet. I am running the IPOD directly to the amps and using Y cords to feed the subwoofer amp.
I will be using the PAC GM24 with the AUX input mods previously posted on the web and then cutting the PAC GM24 speaker outputs and feeding them to a LS6 module which will accept the speaker outputs and change them to low level RCA outs. I'll be using a Tsunami AV (7 channel RCA cable but using only 5) to run from the LS6 mounted to the right of the HU, in the dash, through the center drive train hump back to the amps.
The stock amp will stay in place as will all of the stock wiring.
Also since you will be removing the interior panels you will need 8 single use GM push pin connectors. Don't even waist your time just cut them off with diagnel wire dykes and replace them with new once you are done.
Last edited by Steve Germany; 07-18-2005 at 07:26 PM.
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The answer to the C6 Subwoofer problem!
