BeachinVette

The price is a lot different. Anyone running and aluminum flywheel?

Thanks
Bob

aharte

Yes, the effective weight difference is considerable. When I do my manual conversion, I'm going to the 15 lb iron flywheel from GM performance parts. I think you probably don't want to go much lower than that on a street engine (~30 lb is stock), and it only costs ~$170.

Anyway, the switch effectively saves you ~270 lb in 1st gear for acceleration/braking purposes with your setup (3.55 rear, 2.5 1st gear). I can give you the formula if you want (and derivation too if you care).

Scott78

Less rotating mass equals faster revving engine. It's one of those cost/benefit problems. Is the extra cost worth the faster idle to redline benefits,depends on the application. Daily driver probably not, a quarter mile car would see the benefit. But it only money right?? :lol:

Scott

Corey_68

It will rev a LOT quicker. :yesnod:
:cheers:

BeachinVette

I am doing an auto to manual conversion, So Abraham will this make me a little quicker off the line? I would thinks so because I would be able to rev the engine to the power band quicker. Do you agree?
Scott I am thinking I might go this way cause I would probably want to do it a week after I have the 4 spd in. I have to buy a flywheel anyhow. I am thinking about the Hays clutch and pressure plate.I am wondering if anyone else has gone from steel to aluminum and can give me they're oppinion on the difference.
Thanks
Bob

aharte

I don't know whether a lighter flywheel would help or hurt you in a drag race. You won't be able to launch as hard, but once you're going, you'll accelerate (slightly) better. Braking will also be a little better. Its like taking a couple hundred pounds off your car without losing any traction for it (of course you don't get the handling benefits either). People seem to obsess about a few pounds here and there, which really doesn't do anything for any reasonable amount of money. This is a cheap way to improve overall performance by a few percent (no, it won't be extraordinary), although it *may* hurt 1/4 mile times slightly if that's all you care about.

ED DINAPOLI

I have an Aluminum flywheel in my 74 with a standard chev clutch setup. You would not know the difference from a steel wheel by driving the car. I cant comment on the 1/4 mile time as I never drove my combination without it. You do need to becarefull with the heat as it will not take the heat of a steel wheel. It has been in the car for 3 years and I am very happy with it.
Ed

SprintCarDriver

I have always used aluminum flywheel while road-racing/dirt tracking as faster acceleration and deceleration was needed. I have be told (as I have never draged raced) that you want a heavier flywheel for the troque.

70PurpleLS7

Ummm, Is there a reason why "SprintCarDriver" and "aharte" have the same car in their signature... At least that is what I'm seeing here.

As to the flywheel question. The aluminum flywheels are used alot by the roundy-round crowd, primarily for the quick rise in rpm's coming out of the corners. In drag racing the heavier steel flywheel will transmit more torque to the rest of the drivetrain. In a street application - I would just stick with the steel 30 pound flywheel.

Flareside

For the street, I prefer steel. Bigger the better. I can feel the difference with a heavy flywheel during takeoff and shifting (smoother).

Aluminum does both look better in pictures and sound better during bench racing :) You'll be fine either way.

BB wowbagger

I`ve been investigating this my self.All people i`ve talked to do not recommend Alu for a streetcar.If you build a quarter mile car with close gearing and you need do be able to keep it at high rpms when shifting.Less rotating mass is good for racing but on the street the differens is not worth the $...
Just my.02 :cheers: :cheers:

wallyknoch

The less rotataing mass the better. But make sure the whole assembly is balanced. The L 88`s used a light weight 10.5 flywheel that is still available from GM. It is probably still cheaper than an aluminum aftermarket style. GM part # 14085720, which replaces the old # of 3856579 and weighs 15 lbs. When you get fancy outside of original equipment parts most of the clutch nightmares start showing up. :cheers: :cheers:

corvgreg

For stop and go driving, the steel flywheel is the way to go...as said before by another it stores energy for a stronger launch.

Lt1er

It's aluminum only for me. The lighter the better. If you have enough engine torque you just let out the clutch and motor away. I noticed much smoother shifting when under power. Because your not trying to instantly change the rpms of 40+ pounds of rotating mass.

I also auto-X and that where the light weight really shines. The motor is much more responsive