DDSLT5

Hi guys, I just recently started using this site, and upon first seeing the topics, I spent one whole day of my vacation reading every entry - great exchange of ideas and advice!!

I recently purchased my 1990 red on saddle ZR-1 - extremely clean car with 29000 miles on the odometer. Only modifications made were the K+N filter and the air box chopped to allow more airflow. Still smells like new leather!! Have got both tops and owners manual etc. I also purchased some chrome 5 spoke wheels and have stored the originals with rubber still on (perfect condition). Last weekend I installed my brand new Corsa exhaust, and I really love the note it produces now. I don't have any dyno numbers to offer (haven't had time to dyno it), but I know it hauls butt to 155 mph (i live in rural Ontario, Canada) before I lose my nerve. I am very impressed with the power and i do have points of reference (my dad owns a '62 with the highest output 327 with the 4 barrel, 68 427, 390 hp, and i am finishing my restoration of a '69 conv., 427, 400, 4 spd), but of course I'm always looking to up the ante - so - which computer chip do you think I would benefit from? Should I get it dynoed, and then upon analyzing the air-fuel ratio, get a custom chip? Who and where do i get such a thing? What will my gains in hp and torque be? How does it affect driveability? Should I just wait till i can afford Lingenfelter?


Thanks for everyone's contributions in advance - I'll be checking the site later on thursday night for all your responses.

FASTAZU

Welcome and congrats on the Z :chevy :cheers: can't help you much with advice I'm still a new Z owner also.

RatRacer

For a stock ZR-1 with minimal mods a revised chip calibration won't buy you much, and it's a crap shoot unless you have a chassis dyno and a handful of various chips. It's not until you improve the Volumetric Efficiency through headers and ported intake that revised calibrations become neccessary. With the right chip, headers and intake porting you can add as much as 60rwhp. That's the cheapest hp you can buy short of nitrous.

BTW, welcome to club ZR-1. :cheers:

Mylzi

What is intake? Is it same thing as plemium? Intake manifold with runners?
So maybe I should get headers and get that thing ported somewhere..
Should I get headers first and Corsa exchaust system after that.. Course I thik that headers help more than new exchaust system? Cant remove cats.:(

4cefed

Yes, same thing as the plenum. You can always put aftermarket cats on your aftermarket cat back and run headers. If I were you I would do the aftermarket cat back on yours first.

DDSLT5

Thanks for the welcome from RatRacer and Wegone - much appreciated, and thanks especially to RatRacer for the help - I'll drive my car as is and if I want to see some kickin power upgrades, I'll look into headers and porting the intake etc. Got any more info on nitrous? Are you using nitrous? How safe is it , and how difficult is it to install?

Thanks for your time and effort - again, much appreciated!! :cheers:

FASTAZU

DDSLT5,

Go to ZR1.net and join the LT5 Registry they put out a Mag. called KOTH King of the Hill, the last issue had a great story on nitrous, I'm sure you can still get the issue.

:chevy :seeya

Mylzi

Dont forget to show him that picture of nitrous backfire opened lt5 plenium..

:D :D :D

RatRacer

Nitrous can be used safely on the ZR-1 but there are many caveats. I am running an NOS kit #5172 and it works very well. The install was a challenge as the owners manual included with the kit was obsolete and I was shorted a few parts but with some help from Mike Flynn at NOS I was able to install it myself in about 12-14 hours over the course of a couple of weekends. There are also a number of tuning precautions that must be taken to prevent a meltdown but I can steer you, or anyone else contemplating a NOS kit for their ZR-1, in the right direction. To run juice safely on the ZR-1 you need the correct plugs, air/fuel ratios and good gas.

Here's what an NOS kit did for my otherwise stock '90 ZR-1.

DDSLT5

Hey guys - I really appreciate the advice - I actually sent a check to the ZR-1 registry about a month ago (california address - i can't remember the fellow's name) and it was certified for 50 U.S. dollars - but no response as of yet - who can I call to find out if my check has been lost - someone who works in the registry preferably?

Thanks to ratracer for the cool dyno chart of his ZR-1 on nitrous - I'm still up in the air as to what route I'll take - how expensive can nitrous run?

Anybody else with advice for my ZR-1 registry quandry, feel free to leave me a note!!

RatRacer

It runs between $900 for the NOS kit to $10k if you blow it up. :jester

BCZR1

DDSLT5, welcome and congrats on the new Z! As to the LT5 registry, drop Clint Hooper a line at chooper@wf.quik.com. I'm sure he can help u out :cheers:

Brian


[Modified by 86vette4+3, 12:53 PM 7/6/2002]

DDSLT5

Thanks Brian, I have already dropped Clint a line, hopefully will get a response soon. By the way - I noticed that you have made a few mods to your 91 - what level of performance increases did you experience with the various upgrades? Thanks for the info!! :cheers:


[Modified by DDSLT5, 7:25 PM 7/6/2002]

BCZR1

Well, I bought it with everything already on, except the duct. The car didn't get dyno'd before the mods so, it's kind of hard to say what the actual increases are. I did dyno it recently to the tune of 341rwhp/337rwtq(Dynojet dyno, pump gas, 90+deg and humid) Now, really about the only note worthy mod, being static, is the corsa exh. The chip doesn't run as rich as the stock one though and helps keep temps in check. The K&N cones might flow better than stock too. Now as I'm told anywhere around 325rwhp is suppose to be good for a stock 375 horse Z. To make some conjectures, we could assume about that for mine and say that's a pretty good increase for a couple of bolt ons. On the other hand, I have heard others say from before/after testing the corsa it only got ~5rwhp. So, just as Vettebabe's stock 90 put down 336rwhp, mine could have also when it was stock and I got my 5rwhp from the corsa to be at 341. But it's all guessing b/c no before graphs to compare under similar settings. But hey, you're in a much better position to gauge the gains to your car ;) Get a before graph if u plan on modding. Have fun!!! :cheers:

Brian

DDSLT5

Thanks again for the info Brian - I definitely will follow your advice regarding the "have fun" part - I have a blast every time i drive my ZR - whether smoking some punks in mustangs or firebirds/camaros or just getting looks cruising by the cafes downtown. The spirit of America's only true sports car is alive in Canada as well. :flag

BCZR1

Sorry, got a little busy there lol You're very welcome. I actually bought mine in Vancouver, B.C. :) I like the features that are unique to the Canadian ZedR1 ;) :cool:

Hib Halverson

Back in 96, when my ZR-1 was stock with just a Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, I ran a chip from Doug Rippie Motorsports. It was my first experience with a LT5 and aftermarket calibrations and, I'll tell you that, Doug's stuff worked pretty well in that application.

Rip's chip for that application included a slight change in fuel calibration, a slight change in spark cal., a slight change in the strategy by which the computer determines knock retard (takes out smaller increments and brings them in quicker after the knock incident concludes) and a change in the fan on temperatures. Also Doug makes a change in the programming of the IAT sensor input tables that mimics moving the IAT forward in the system.

To be honest, I didn't notice a seat of the pants increase in performance....but, with only an exhaust on a stocker, just a change in chip probably wouldn't give you a difference you could feel. However, using a scan tester, I could see that spark and the knock retard strategy were different. I could see the difference in cooling through the lower fan-ons

Nowadays, my engine is much more modified and can't use that "stock w exhaust" cal. It's been sitting, inside a baggie, in my calibration drawer out on the shop for several years. I'll sell it for $125 bucks. If anyone's interested, contact me privately.

I also have two other cals that I'm not using, a Jeal and another DRM, however, these are for 350s with ported heads, housings and plenum, reset stock cams, stock exhaust manifolds and cats and an aftermarket exhaust. Anyone interested in those, contact me privately.

FASTAZU

Hib,
Would the DRM chip work in a 91 with no mods. and would it give me any gains, if so drop me an IM. I tried your E-mail no luck

Thanks Steve

DDSLT5

Hib - I am definitely interested in this chip - but like you say - I would like to feel a seat of the pants increase in performance. I only have K+N and Corsa exhaust - but she pulls quite strongly to redline - lots of torque too. Maybe you might tell me how to get a look at the chip that is currently in my 90 - as when I got the car I found a GM prom in the console and I assumed it was one which was removed on a recall/update basis at the GM dealer - but I could be wrong, and might have a high perf. chip right now. Doubt it, since the idle cycles up and down from 1000 to 1300 rpm while slowing down with clutch in until stopped - heard this is a problem with the original calibration. I may well purchase your chip, if indeed there are some gains to be made.

Do you remember when yours was stock? Could you spin the tires moderately in 1st and a little in 2nd - not dumping the clutch but just flooring it in gear? Mine will do this and it feels really strong - but I'm continually told by my buddy with a ZO6 that his will beat me off the line - if so, then the ZO6 is one hellaciously fast stock ride!!

Hib Halverson

First, I gotta say oooooooops.
I forgot to say that the chips I have for sale work only in 93-95 engines.

Pull the ECM fuse, remove the ECM from its mount, flip it upside down and remove the plate on the bottom. The blue thing you see in there is the chip. Use your thumbs to retract the chip retainer clips then pull out the chip.

Well, to be hones, no I couldn't. I could only spin the tires without popping the clutch in first But that's because my car is a 95 and its had either GS-Cs (a sticker tire than your Eagle ZRs) or Drag Radials on the back. More traction means less wheelspin.