StealDads67

I was wondering for a stock 88 vette, where would you start with modding the car, say u have about $1500 wwhat would you do to get the 1/4 times down? Thanks guys :cool:

scorp508

I'll assume you mean a 4+3 since I know you want a stick car.

1. Short Shifter (less time shifting = more time on the gas = better ET) $23
2. K&N Air Filter ~$50
3. Open Air Lid ~$50 (if you buy it, $0 if you make it)
4. 1.6 Roller Rockers ~$260
5. Catback Exhaust $900
6. High Flo Cat $200
7. 1/2 Tank of Gas for race day $17

vader86

Id look to get a 89 ZF6 if i could. Ditto on Scorps suggestions. Maybe you can look into TPIS headers for about $750. A 160 thermo and fan switch might keep your car cooler which could help your times on a hot day. Look into tires too.

StealDads67

With all these mods that u have suggested what times in the 1/4 should you expect to run with drag radials also. You guys are great thanks for the help. Oh and i would love to get the ZF-6 but the price jump is to much (From what I have seen) I only have 10K :cry , but i fugure that will get me something decent. thanks again for your time.

vader86

i figure you could get really low 14s or high 13s with the drags

scorp508

With those mods and drag radials you better be in the mid 13s.

Scoob

Wouldn't $50 muffler elims accomplish the same thing?

jaa1992

Add to scorps suggestions:

Gut the precats - probably $50 -70 to have someone do it. They have to cut them open, remove insides then weld them back together. My guestimate is about an hour labor.
Remove the "frisbee" on the water pump. Some folks picked up .1 sec just with that mod alone - its free!

Or replace the front Y pipe with one with no precats, not sure on cost.

My whole exhaust system is unstatisfactory so I'm planning on headears to tailpipe replacement, my budget is $1500 - 2000 for just that change.


[Modified by jaa1988, 9:56 AM 1/22/2002]

Fastguy

OK, just to be reeeeeeeeal basic here, everything has to have an INSA and an OUTSA. You don't want a killer exhaust and no intake mods or the opposite, its all the combination. Someone here, I think its Vic89 has a great combo going using lots of stock parts. You can probably get a used Lingenfelter Super Ram for $800-$1,000 and some brand new ceramic coated Hooker Super Comps for about $450 but that kills your budget and forget hooking in street tires. I guess for $1,500, I would get drag radials ($320) and spare wheels from an old Camaro or something, (about $60) and then look at headers and exhaust while keeping an eye out for a used SR. You can get Hooker SC's that have all of the emission provisions uncoated for about $280.

VetNutJim

What is the "frisbee" on there for?
I've seen some WITH it and some WITHOUT it.

Anybody k-no?

jaa1992

THere have been lots of threads on the Frisbee.
It was put there for some sort of damping that was not required.
Someone asked a Corvette engineer and they said it wasn't used and
could be removed.

As for location, look at your waterpump pulley. I think it is attached to the front of it.

(Guys did I remember that correctly???)

chucks88

Thats a good simple explanation.

I found a 3.08 rear for $400 and had it istalled (including the speedo gear) for another $400

Vic'89

If you want to get your 1/4 mile ET down, then first start with all the small and free mods, like cutlid, K&N filter, gutted MAF sensor, crank pulley, & ported plenum.

Next, you need drag radials, remember you are looking for ET, so you need to cut the 60' time down.

Finally a nice ypipe+catback exhaust, I have the TPIS exhaust and it made the biggest ET difference. 65Z01 also has this system with similiar results.

Good luck.

Vic

TreyZ28

Kevin, just remember, i'm one step ahead of you...:boxing
you'll never beat me
You had a bike
i got a subaru
you got a 3.4 camaro
I got a Z28
You get a mid-high13sec vette
I'll get the Z into 13 sec camaro maybe low 12's :p:
how how bout them long tubes and drag radials... i got the intake!

Hehe just kiddin kev
its all about who has the least wieght in theri backpack that day, and God you know were both good at lightening the backpack! So cheers! :cheers:
SUCKER!
(ps sorry u ruined my first post at Cz28.com...

65Z01

You can check out my site for things that worked for me and the test/race results.

A good cat-back is essential to gaining HP and I realy like my TPIS cat-back, but you could save some $$ by using muffler elims.

If you have plans to do some internal engine mods, e-mail me for some such mods & test results data.

StealDads67

Hey what do u mean by "normailized 1/4 mile" on that website? and how much did this stuff come out to. Comp Cams 1.6:1 ProMagnums w/ 7/16" studs, springs w/ Ti retainers. OH and guys, All installation for me is free :D I love my dad, He teachs me all the cool stuff also, so it will be little bit cheaper, and i can do most the stuff myself anyways, he just watchs and makes sure i dont do anyhting stupid :rolleyes: Thanks guys

65Z01

"Normalized" means I applied adjustemnts to my ET & trap speed for weather conditions. Check out the math page on my site for the equations. Plug em into a spread sheet, get the temperature and baro next time your at the strip and you can normalize your numbers too.

I believe the cost numbers for the valve train stuff was "about" as follows:
$260-1.6:1, 7/16" ProMagnums
$50-hardened pushrods
$50-7/16" rocker studs
$50-hardened guide plates
$100-Ti retainers
$50-10degree locks(keepers)
$20-upper seals
$20-shim pack
$100-springs
$700-total cost

Though these numbers may be a little off (I'm not home now so can't access my receipts) but the total is accurate to within $100.

BTW, I tossed the oil shedders from the tops of my springs as they realy added some weight and these were not used on the LT1, to help raise the valve float limit.

Mr Mojo

Best advice is to follow Jims work(65 Z01) He backs everything up with multiple runs at the track.