Wheelman

i am still trying to figure out why my car wont start....it is turning over fine, the fuel pressure is fine, but no spark. Yesterday i replaced the cap, rotor, and coil, and had the ignition module checked, but still no start. The guy at the auto parts store said it was probably my pickup coil? Is that probably it? It says in the chiltons manual that you have to take the whole distributor out to get to it and i dont know if i should do it....dont want to mess up timing or anything. Anybody done this before? Is it hard? Can i do it without messing anything up? Also i checked the resistance of the pickup coil, and it was 55,000 ohms (said it should be 1000-5000) is this my problem.? Is there some other place that i should be looking for my problem? Id really like to fix it myself and not pay for it to sit at the shop for days and days if at all possible.

thanks

VQT88Vette

The pick up coil is attach to the cap. You don't touch the timing at all. Even replacing the ignition module, under the rotor, you don't have to worry about the timing.

Wheelman

according to my shop manual, the pickup coil is a small round thing (shaped like a donut but smaller) with some wires going out of it, and it is attached to the base of the distributor (under the cap, coil, and rotor)

scorp508

The distributor has to come out to get to the pickup coil. It's pretty easy. Just remember to install the distributor correctly and retime the car. :)

XtremeVette

Your exactly correct on your description and sounds to me like that is the culprit....I had the same thing with mine...over the last year...on an off starting problems....no spark....she just cranks and cranks..

Finally my dad and I replaced that pickup coil....which is like what you said....a small donut shaped object...think mine was like $15....

just take your time and make sure you remember where the distributor is....mark it....and make sure you put it back in the same position...the gears have to be the same or you will be out of time..

also you have to remove a pin on the gear shaft get the pickup coil out. So dont try to force it.....

I am sure there is someone..(Scorp I know you canÕt resist!!!)...hehe....that can post more on this.....I mostly watched while my father replaced mine...hey gotta learn from someone....

hope it works out...

keep us posted..

PS...wonder if are cars are twins..only a year apart...lol

XtremeVette

geez...while I was posting.....he (scorp 508)..got one in...


this guy monitors every thread with some sort of super computer...i swear...lol

too funny :smash: :crazy:

Wheelman

retime the car???? aghhhhhh ? How????

scorp508

Hehehe... mine was I think $32 from a local small mom/pop parts store. They were the ONLY ones that had one in stock. I actually had to call a local corvette place and ask them where to get one.

Anyways, yeah there is a pin that you can drive out pretty easily. Otherwise it is pretty straightforward. Also check your distributor gear for wear while it is out. That is what failed in my car. Three teeth had completely sheered off. :eek:

HighHopes85

Let me make a suggestion to NOT purchase a Wells brand ignition coil. I unfortunatly purchased 2 from a bad batch. Long story short-the polarity was reversed. I had to break the pigtail connector to make it work. Long story is somewhere on my vetteforum website if I still have it up. -Matt-

SloRvette

You won't be able to change the pickup coil without disturbing the timing. You need to take the distributor out of the engine. Basically you take off the distributor drive gear - mark the shaft and gear alignment, drive out the roll pin. There will be shims and spacer between the drive gear and body at the bottom - keep these together in the same orientation. The the shaft assembly should slide out of the distributor body. If the shaft doesn't want to slide out easily there's sludge built up on the shaft of the distributor. Slide the shaft out, or support the body and use a brass punch and hammer to drive it out. The pickup is under the rotor. Couple of screws and it comes off. There are a couple of alignment pins there also so you might need to pry it a little bit. Install the new one, clean the shaft of the distributor so it slides in easily, check the alignment between the teeth of the pickup and the teeth on the shaft - make sure they don't hit, then reverse the process. It's not too tough, but you will need to set the timing when you're done.

VQT88Vette

My bad :rolleyes: Sorry

Wheelman

anybody remember what size punch they used on the roll pin?

also, this is a hollow pin near the bottom towards the gear, correct?

HighHopes85

I was in a hurry. I used a nail. :eek:

:yesnod: -Matt-


[Modified by HighHopes85, 12:45 PM 12/6/2001]

TIMSPEED

Try replacing the plugs first. I thought it might be my pick-up coil, and it wasn't it. It was the plugs. Replace plugs first, if that doesn't fix it, THEN do the pick-up coil. First test it. In the Haynes Manual it tells how to check it. I was battling with the "No Start" problem for a while. It drove me up the WALL, because I had a completely new ignition. ALL EXCEPT THE PLUGS! Trust me, replace the plugs before you start pulling stuff apart.

XtremeVette

um...disagree with that one..SloRvette

when I did mine....did not have to re-time anything...took stuff out...and put back exactly the same way.....

why would you have to re-time anything if you did not change anything?

jeff

HighHopes85

These engines run on a detonation threshold of about 2-3 degrees...meaning if you are 2-3 degrees advanced from where you should be (and get a bad load of gas), you might start hitting your knock sensor. My eyes aren't good enough to guestimate if I am right where I was before removing the distributor or not, so I guess setting the timing afterwards is just extra insurance. -Matt-

XtremeVette

ok..i can understand....that....

what are the usual signs that your out of time?

my car seems to be running just fine....

and how can you reset timing.....let me guess Iam gonna need to go by a timing light...right...hehe...

also what should timing be for best performance and gas mileage?....9 degrees?

do you just turn the distributor like in the old days?

jeff

pablocruise

I replaced my coil not too long ago when I rebuilt my dist. It then wouldn't fire. Switched the two coil leads and VVVRRRROOOOOMMMM. Try the leads, they do need to be correctly phased. That coil wire is a fine gauge and should be handled w/ care. You could test for continuity. The AC Delco pickup was like 18 bucks. My question is if the coil can be damaged by having the leads out of phase. Anyone know? It runs ok.