84 Crossfire Engine Stall
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
84 Crossfire Engine Stall
Why does it seem like every time I do something nice for my 84 it responds by kicking me in the a**?
I just finished replacing all of the carpet, which was a way bigger and time consuming job that I had estimated, but was well worth the effort.
So finally the roads were clear enough yesterday, 40f and sunny, that I took the Corvette to run some errands.
I pulled into my first destination and it stalled as I pulled in, but started after a couple of tries.
It stalled a couple more times on the run. When I got home I was moving it in the driveway and it stalled and I couldn't get it going. It seemed to not be getting fuel, so I put some in each TB and it seemed like it wasn't going to start, but did -but there was some loud clicking noise before that happened.
A little later I tried it and it wouldn't start and I ran the battery down trying to start it.
I disconnected the battery, cleaned up the terminals and charged the battery.
I was in the garage looking through the FSM to get some ideas and decided to try it again. It started right up and sat there idling great for 20 minutes. I then kept hitting the accelerator to rev it up and let it go back to idle and it ran great.
I let it idle more and then shut it off and later started it with no problem.
I realize that I messed up and didn't check codes before I disconnected the battery.
Before winter, I filled the gas tank with non-ethanol fuel and also put in stabilizer and added some of the new Stabil 360 a week ago.
Last year it had quit and it ended up being the fuel pump, so that and the in tank filter were replaced and I replace the inline fuel filter too.
What is the most common problem when there is a "gremlin" stalling problem with an 84 crossfire?
I just finished replacing all of the carpet, which was a way bigger and time consuming job that I had estimated, but was well worth the effort.
So finally the roads were clear enough yesterday, 40f and sunny, that I took the Corvette to run some errands.
I pulled into my first destination and it stalled as I pulled in, but started after a couple of tries.
It stalled a couple more times on the run. When I got home I was moving it in the driveway and it stalled and I couldn't get it going. It seemed to not be getting fuel, so I put some in each TB and it seemed like it wasn't going to start, but did -but there was some loud clicking noise before that happened.
A little later I tried it and it wouldn't start and I ran the battery down trying to start it.
I disconnected the battery, cleaned up the terminals and charged the battery.
I was in the garage looking through the FSM to get some ideas and decided to try it again. It started right up and sat there idling great for 20 minutes. I then kept hitting the accelerator to rev it up and let it go back to idle and it ran great.
I let it idle more and then shut it off and later started it with no problem.
I realize that I messed up and didn't check codes before I disconnected the battery.
Before winter, I filled the gas tank with non-ethanol fuel and also put in stabilizer and added some of the new Stabil 360 a week ago.
Last year it had quit and it ended up being the fuel pump, so that and the in tank filter were replaced and I replace the inline fuel filter too.
What is the most common problem when there is a "gremlin" stalling problem with an 84 crossfire?
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OK, so I went out today and my car started fine and idled for 15-20 minutes. It was up to temperature and figured I would do some rev to idle cycles with the throttle.
That went fine and then after about a minute of smooth idle @ about 800rpm it quit and wouldn't start.
I checked and there are no codes. I will check, but I really think that it is electrical?
If the problem happens when the engine is warm, what is the logical first thing to look at?
That went fine and then after about a minute of smooth idle @ about 800rpm it quit and wouldn't start.
I checked and there are no codes. I will check, but I really think that it is electrical?
If the problem happens when the engine is warm, what is the logical first thing to look at?
#3
Instructor
When the car stalls, how does it stall? Does it sputter and try to run or does it just shut off instantly like when you turn the car off?
If a car sputters and tries to run when it stalls, it will more than likely be a fuel issue, if it shuts down instantly, its more than likely an ignition issue.
If a car sputters and tries to run when it stalls, it will more than likely be a fuel issue, if it shuts down instantly, its more than likely an ignition issue.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
When the car stalls, how does it stall? Does it sputter and try to run or does it just shut off instantly like when you turn the car off?
If a car sputters and tries to run when it stalls, it will more than likely be a fuel issue, if it shuts down instantly, its more than likely an ignition issue.
If a car sputters and tries to run when it stalls, it will more than likely be a fuel issue, if it shuts down instantly, its more than likely an ignition issue.
#5
Instructor
Okay, then you are looking for an ignition problem, and since its affecting all cyls at once, you are looking for something that is causing the whole distributor to not work. I would guess it would be the ignition module in the dist is getting warm and a contact is coming apart. Either that or your ignition coil is going bad and a contact is opening when its warm.
TLDR: With all 8 cyls shutting down at the same time it would be a safe bet its either the coil or module.
TLDR: With all 8 cyls shutting down at the same time it would be a safe bet its either the coil or module.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Okay, then you are looking for an ignition problem, and since its affecting all cyls at once, you are looking for something that is causing the whole distributor to not work. I would guess it would be the ignition module in the dist is getting warm and a contact is coming apart. Either that or your ignition coil is going bad and a contact is opening when its warm.
TLDR: With all 8 cyls shutting down at the same time it would be a safe bet its either the coil or module.
TLDR: With all 8 cyls shutting down at the same time it would be a safe bet its either the coil or module.
Is there a good way to test these parts -I am not very good with electrical testing etc., but maybe it will be in the FSM, so I'll look.
#7
Instructor
With it being an intermittent problem that happens when the car is warmed up, its going to be pretty hard to test, especially with an older car. Unless you back probe the connectors on the suspected parts to test their imput and output. Honestly what I would do is just replace both, but if you dont want to spend too much, replace the least expensive part first. Also if your cap, rotor, plugs and wires havent been changed recently, now would be a good time to replace those as well.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
With it being an intermittent problem that happens when the car is warmed up, its going to be pretty hard to test, especially with an older car. Unless you back probe the connectors on the suspected parts to test their imput and output. Honestly what I would do is just replace both, but if you dont want to spend too much, replace the least expensive part first. Also if your cap, rotor, plugs and wires havent been changed recently, now would be a good time to replace those as well.
Thanks for your help!!
#10
Instructor
I replaced the module, which was the GM original, and the coil, which looked toasted and it is running great. Smoother idle and winds out nicer. I did replace the cap and rotor also -plugs were changed in the fall. The wires were replaced about 10k miles ago, so they should be OK.
Thanks for your help!!
Thanks for your help!!