TKO 500 woes
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
TKO 500 woes
i put a TKO 500 in my 77 back in June, I put 1500 miles on it softly before I started being hard on it. it was always difficult to get into 1st gear. I now I have about 4k miles on it and its grinding, any quick tips before I pull it and send it back to keisler? it grinds when I shift it quickly into 3rd, 4th and when im downshifting to pass someone from 5th to 4th. I did the run out check with the bell housing and crank, it had .002 difference. I changed the fluid 4 times now, only using GM syncromesh fluid.
#2
My vote is that something is not right with the trans....send it back. I had a TKO 500 behind a mild build 350 in my '71 SS/RS Camaro and I had no issues with the actual trans. My only slight issue was a little grind going into reverse, but that was due to the fit with the factory 4-speed center console that I was using.
#5
Safety Car
If you switched to hydraulic clutch, try bleeding it. If you have the standard OEM clutch, try adjusting it. If you're out of adjustment, its not uncommon for GM clutch forks to bend....
That sucks that you're having problems we all know those kits aren't cheap!!!
That sucks that you're having problems we all know those kits aren't cheap!!!
#6
Did you check your fork geometry for correct pivot stud and throwout bearing length? You should have plenty of travel and adjustment if done correctly.
Good article here:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
Good article here:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
#9
Team Owner
I wanted faster engagement and disengagement with my clutch petal. So I drilled a hole about one inch lower on the "Z-Bar" Then attached the through the firewall rod to this lower position.
Mechanically it makes more movement of the throwout bearing when you push the pedal
#11
Race Director
If it doesn't disengage when properly adjusted there is something wrong with the clutch.
Properly adjusted: About 1.5" of free play at the end of the pedal. Grab it with your hand and move it. You can feel how far it moves before it contacts the TO bearing.
Properly adjusted: About 1.5" of free play at the end of the pedal. Grab it with your hand and move it. You can feel how far it moves before it contacts the TO bearing.
#13
Burning Brakes
Using the speed direct linkage,makes for a smoother clutch and greater range of adjustment.
[IMG][/IMG]
Check my post on the weak Z bar bracket:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ar-1980-a.html
Bracket was flexing causing all kinds of clutch troubles....
[IMG][/IMG]
Check my post on the weak Z bar bracket:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ar-1980-a.html
Bracket was flexing causing all kinds of clutch troubles....
#14
Makes sure the frame end of the z-bar is firmly retained in the frame bracket.
If your fork ball-stud is too short, the end of the fork hits the tunnel and limits the stroke.
Sure sounds like a clutch actuation problem, as others have said and not a tranny problem.
If your fork ball-stud is too short, the end of the fork hits the tunnel and limits the stroke.
Sure sounds like a clutch actuation problem, as others have said and not a tranny problem.
#15
Since you changed from a auto to the manual you might want to check the entire unit. Pedals, frame mounting for the z bar and everything else that had to be replaced. You should still have my number (I bought the heads) if you need some help.