Steve@C56

Hi everybody

I hit 11.133 the past weekend with A LOT issue (clutch who was smelling at the first run, often not able to put in 2th or 3th gear, rpm limit on the last 100 ft @ 7400 on 3th gear because affraid to not be able to shift in 4th, leak on header - collector alluminum seal open on cylender 1 -... battery, computer, car who was telling me sometime "REDUCE POWER ENGINE" when losting oil pressure and fuel tank gauge, command on driver door who are not usable...)

Have just install my spec 3+ and i'm break-in it for again 450 miles (50 yesterday)

Hope to do a 10.x pass next race (just in 8 days) !

Now, have the regular intake system : A&A air filter, 2.5in(i think) tube from air filter to SC, 2.5in(i think) tube from IC to TB

As some CF member swap from this to 3in pipe and win a lot (have read 2psi/50hp), can i test to ran WITHOUT ANY air filter ?
Or perhaps again better, without any tube before SC ? (and just put a metal grid for to be sure to not having something too hard who enter in the SC)

Evidently, just for the race on strip...

So, what the better choice for hit my best time EVER next race ?
1 : Dont change anything
2 : Without airfilter
3 : Without airfilter but with metal grid (like the one in TB if i find)
4 : Without tube before the SC
5 : Without tube before the SC but with metal grid

Thanks for all who help me ;-)

4DRUSH

Nothing in front of the supercharger

Change clutch fluid

new gasket for headers

Pull codes on DIC for your Reduced Power problems

Add 5 gallons 100 unleaded fuel in your tank

Don't rev to 7400 on stock motor, shift or lift

Take weight out of the car (pass seat, etc)


.

Steve@C56

* Clutch is NEW (break in in process)
* Fluid and slave NEW (DOT 5.1)
* Gasket... impossible to have new for next race cause i'm not in US (have put the old steel stock one)
* Impossible to find 100 (race in Italy), but my E85 in 105 octane ;-) (also, in at 22° at WOT from perhaps 4000 to 6200... i think i dont need to *** some advence)
* 7400, 100% ok with you... i HAD to do that because was at 7000 200ft before 1/4m and rarely able to shift in 4 gear ! I just do that twice (and... had twice à 11.1 @ 128mph = 7400rpm/3th/my ET)
* Yes, i will put off passeger seat, my 2 catback, and try to run with 1/8 tank full
* NOTHING in front of SC... i little affaid to have something enter in SC, but, if it's an animal, i will be a steak after the SC

Thanks !

Y2KRoadster

I would NEVER pull the filter. You realize if something gets sucked in, it will take out your motor and the supercharger. Is that really worth a 10 second skip? Pulley down if you want to go faster, or, get better traction.

Steve@C56

I dont think to HAVE to pull the filter for enter in the 10s, but for min my time, YES (italy "street" record is at 10.600s, a mitsu with something like 847hp on dynosheet)
Dont sure i can hit 10.5xx, but for ONE ou TWO run... may be i can remove air filter

So, better with metal grid like the one in TB ?

4DRUSH

Add all that metal grid up & it probably blocks 1/5th of the sc opening, or more

Not sure where you're racing, but around here the tracks are pretty clean, no worries of pebbles bouncing around in front of your car.

Steve@C56

1/5 ??? wooaaoohh... i should put off my grid in my stock TB !

It's a airfield who was just be use for drag race 2 times in 2012... Is used rest of the time for little plane... BUT very well prepared (sorry... very well for Italie/Suizerland and France... it's not like in US or Santa Pod in GB)

I have the stock C5 bumper, so, if a part enter in the SC... it's because it's already under the hood... or something who is from dam-air

Other question... Should i close the radiators and IC area ? (put something who is the tube from air filter to SC) for having the most cold air on IC
Or stay it opened for having more colc air in SC ?

(Again, thanks for all of you for this brainstorming )

Robert 2000

I wouldn't run that low on gas too risky if it leans out or the gas splashes the wrong way in the tank bye bye engine... I don't beat on mine below 1/4 tan

Steve@C56

OHhh, sorry, in my mind, i was thinking to 1/4 !

But, my two first run was close to 17 AFR (argggghhh !!!)
(Because this time, i had only tune my car on road, and just add 20% at PE for the new cam...

And JUST before the last run... Was entering in red area for the fuel (have add 4g immediatly)

LS1 is rock !

So, have use 1/2 tank with 17 runs
What a f... MPG

joshtownsend

Yall know big J rolls with 1/16 of a tank and no filter..heck, i wouldn't wear pants if they would let me.. being 5' 2" and 345lb, i need all the help i can get

stevieturbo

All this "500 miles" crap is for dodgy drivers IMO. And those same ones would probably just drive 500 miles without hardly even using the clutch and think that's what it needs. A very small amount of sensible break in and slippage when driving is all that's needed.

Ive raced on literally brand new clutches on various different cars and never had a problem.

And unless you can afford to replace the supercharger, I would never consider running it at a race meet without a filter.

ZO6ME

Pull the dongle at the s/c and put the filter directly on the s/c. I did this once until I could get the right bend on the new pipe. Felt like more air flow.

Steve@C56

Wow... i'm a hobbit compare to you (156lb)

Last year, i had put off :
everything possible in the car (fronts carpet also)
passanger seat
catback
and also interior of th doors (including bose loudspeaker)

cannot do better than that

PS : I see/touch the carbon door of a porsche proto... What a f... low weight !!! But, i race agains him, and WIN this weekend, in full weight mode

Steve@C56

It's my daily, so, not a real problem to drive 500 miles (have already done 100miles in 2 days, after my work day)
I live behind see and montain, and in a city with +1.000.000 people, so, a lot of stop/start in city, and can change a lot of gear in montain (where i usualy not)

Airfilter... hummmm... have to choice to follow pro or con

Steve@C56

I think i cannot put the filter on SC, not enouth space for that

Milan

22 degrees of timing has to be past MBT. Are you pushing water?

Steve@C56

No water, only E85
22 is exactly that a stock C6 ZR1 GM tune hit at wot

Milan

Apples and oranges my friend. Pull some timing and shift at 7000 instead of 7400. E85 will lose power before you see knock.

Post more details on your setup.

Steve@C56

Shift at 7000/7100 was my goal, just have hit 7400 because it was quite impossible to shift in 4th gear

The speedest S-trim on the world use a tune whis 20° from 6000 to 6800 at 1.20g/cyl, with normal fuel and dual nozzle alky, and E85 love&need more degrees

My setup :
A&A V3Si
3.4 pulley
1000cc inj
E85
2" header
Big cam(638 lift, powedband until 6900rpm)/spring/pushrod/retainer
Now Spec 3+ clutch

EZ2BEVILC5

Hey,

Just wondering, what kind of WHP you are making?