Larry N. Johnson

Just when we we ready to fire the engine, we put gas in the tank and discovered what looks like a serious leak. Bottom front above the crossmember that holds up the tank.

Questions:
1. Is the tank easy enough to remove? (Secrets?)
2. Repair or replace the tank? (Seam might be fixable.)
3. We see Long Island has new ones for under $300...seems pretty reasonable. Any experience?

6T7L71CPE

Replace without a second thought. Shop around, I got mine at Rock Auto.

Nowhere Man

Second on replacing. Very cheap if you think about it.

bluzrocker

shop around..got mine for 240.00....pin holes will kill ya..no brainer....new tank
tight fit...drain gas from bottom..may need special wrench to remove sending unit i got one ..new gasket @ sending unit wrench was helpfull..have to bang on tank to get it up in there..need to look @ the fiber material around the mounting flange area..
I got new material but you can fabricate the material also.filler neck rubber I replaced at install..+over fill tube I replaced also...may want to replace fuel lines at same time(tank to steel fuel line to front of car...sending unit also check out may want to replace everything while your there..consider in-line fuel filter at tank discharge line and new clamps>>>>>>>>>>> IMOH

Bluzrocker

Bluzrocker

5thvet

Replace Larry, I did mine and it's pretty easy. Got mine from LIC with the proper emboss.

Kerrmudgeon

Save the tank sticker if there is one!

66racer

I believe Larrys vette is a 65 396 , 67 was first year G.M. put the build sheet on gas tank. A new tank is the way to go.

54greg

rock auto

Ron Miller

Replace, no doubt. If it's leaking at a spot now, it's almost a lead pipe cinch there are other places "almost" rusted through as well that will potentially be leakers in the near future.

Gonna be hard to beat Rock Auto's prices on a new tank, unless you opt for an original reproduction with the proper identifying stamps/markings.

wmf62

replace, they are inexpensive
Bill

Powershift

Larry:

Buy a new reproduction tank with the logo from LICS or Quanta (the source). Then separately purchase a GM o-ring and a GM retaining ring for the gas sending unit. Many of the o-ring and retainer reproductions do not fit correctly, and can result in a fuel leak.

A special (low cost) tool is available from LICS to remove the sender. You can also do without if you choose. A small brass drift works well.

The archives are full of information regarding doing this replacement and the things to watch out for......but it is pretty straightforward. I did my 1967 convertible tank by myself with no additional help. However, having a second person is a benefit.

Larry

Larry N. Johnson

Thanks for the tips.

The Rock Auto decription says:
"38 x 15-3/4 x 11-3/4 Lock Ring Kit Included
Platinum Pro Fuel Tanks and Fuel Delivery Parts are a cost effective quality replacement to OE/Aftermarket Parts.
Lock Ring/O-ring Kits included to speed installation time
All Tanks are painted to inhibit rust and corrosion
Direct Replacement to OE for proper fit every time
Every fuel tank is leak tested twice before packaging
PLATINUM PRO Warranty Information
Fuel tanks, fuel tank straps, and oil pans - 3 year warranty. Filler Necks, Fuel Modules and Sending Units - 12 month warranty."


Question: "painted tank" not galvanized? Was not the original tank galvanized? We looked into the tank from above berfore adding gasoline and it sure looked like new, thought it was galavanized.

Powershift

Originals were TERNE plated steel. This is a tin/lead alloy......it is not galvanized (zinc plated).

Not certain if the reproductions today still do the TERNE plating or use galvanized due to lead hazards.

Larry

Larry N. Johnson

The Quanta info says:
"Detailed Description
Exact reproduction Corvette gas tank with O.L. Anderson logo and 3 year warranty. Made of Ni-terne plated steel.

Applications:
Corvette: 1963-67

Features:
The O.L. Anderson logo is indented into the bottom of the tank as original. Small round side indentations, no tubes and no brackets, unvented as original, continuous weld seam, round at corners, and front seam bent down.
Capacity: 20 gallons
Dimensions: 38" x 15-3/4" x 11-3/4"
Original Part Number: 3819506
Free with Tank: Filler neck screws, filler neck gasket, sending unit rubber o-ring and lock ring.
Packaging: Foam wrapped, stretch wrapped and boxed.
Part Number: GM-33A


This one is made of "Made of Ni-terne plated steel"...wonder what that means?

Larry N. Johnson

Larry Powershift,
You answered the question on "Ni-terne" plated steel; THANK YOU!

Fawndeuce

Quanta sells the reproduction direct from their website for $229, I don't know what they charge for shipping though?
I bought the one for my '62 from them at Carlisle, I think i paid $219 and of course no shipping.



Paul

5thvet

Larry,
I would suggest saving your original straps which are already bent exactly as needed for new install. New straps have to be bent to fit and usually are too short because you can't get the bends perfect. Take the old ones, clean them up and paint them. Also look at your old tank upon removal for bends around the lip ( you will see what I mean when you take it out and look at the new one.) You will want to bend the lip more where the straps go around. Use the old one to give you an idea how much.

Don

62Jeff

Here are removal/installation instructions I wrote about 7 years ago after doing my 65 Coupe

From recent memory:

1. Remove gas from tank
2. Remove spare tire carrier (and exhaust? I've got sidepipes so I didn't deal with that)
3. Disconnect sender wires
4. Disconnect fuel hose from sender
5. Remove 2 bolts holding tank straps to cross member. You will have to work to then unhook the "U" end of the tank strap (the end that never gets a bolt) and push that strap up out of the way
6. Remove the cross member that holds the tank in place. The tank will drop down until the filler neck hits the back of the interior compartment
7. Work the rubber boot at the filler neck off
8. Reach past the gas lid and move the tank to the left, then remove some of the 5/16" screws that hold the filler neck to the tank (MIGHT not need to remove the neck on a convertible)
9. Reach past the gas lid and move the tank to the right, then remove some of the 5/16" in screws
10. Reach into the filler neck and lift the tank up a bit and with your other hand (good luck) remove the remainder of the 5/16" screws
11. The tank will now try to fall out of the car. You'll need to pitch it forward and rotate it out of the tank. Be careful not to hook the fuel outlet on the frame

For reinstallation, it's the reverse of all of that, but: If you purchase a new tank be aware that you will need to bend the tank assembly flanges a little more than they are already bent, because they are not folded over enough when the new tank is made - the result is the tank straps will not go around the tank properly and the tank will not be centered if the flanges are not addressed.

Jeff

Larry N. Johnson

Thanks Paul and Ron,

It looks like Quanta is the maker of these repro tanks $229 at Quanta and Paragon, $239 at Long Island. Plus $59 shipping.

Long Island says
"Fuel Tank-20 Gal(OEM Logo) add'l Shipp(dw55lb)
Exact reproduction Corvette gas tank with O.L. Anderson logo and 3 year warranty. Made of Ni-terne plated steel. Quanta Brand Tank.
Features: The O.L. Anderson logo is indented into the bottom of the tank as original. Small round side indentations, no tubes and no brackets, unvented as original, continuous weld seam, round at corners, and front seam bent down.
Capacity: 20 gallons
Dimensions: 38" x 15-3/4" x 11-3/4"
Original Part Number: 3931820 "

They have all the little gaskets, sending units, etc. so very convenient to order from here.

Powershift

I believe the Ni-Terne is a similar alloy to the original TERNE, but adds nickel and lowers the lead content to satisify the environmentalists. It is still a very good plating, but I believe is a bit more shiney than the original. However, almost no one can tell the difference anymore.

Larry