HANNY

second set of lowering bolts i have installed on my 09. The car only has 12,000 miles so needless to say the bolts stink!!!! Wouldnt be right to call out the 2 different vendors i used "BUT" i can say i think most if not all the lowering bolts are the same. They just dont hold up and the rubber part wears thru quick, then starts to squeek, then wears into your control arm then youre really screwed. i corner pretty hard for sure but they should last longer then 6k per set.
This is just my experience and my driving habits arent like others who may not have problems with them but i did. I'm an ASE master certified tech who knows a little about stuff,,, i thot about going hardbar but with the idea they may rub a groove in the control arm i decided not to. The issue i have with the ones i have is weak/bad rubber product that just doesnt last.
Couple pics for lookin, be safe. pAuL

Chets LS3

Mine looked like that. Buy hardbar lowering bolts. Seem to be better. Only downfall you have to lube them up well.

LFZ

Yep...been there...don't that.

JW Motorsports

I've seen that quite a bit over the years with those kits. It's hard to believe they keep selling them. They have to know by now

AORoads

well, if it's not the vendors' fault, then it must be the manufacturers' fault---that's assuming (correctly, I presume) that you're not doing something wrong in the installation.

so, wouldn't it be helpful to either mention the manufacturer or the vendors---not to criticize them as vendors, but to warn others that the lowering kits don't seem to last? unless you think you've already done that by saying any you buy, other than hardbar which you haven't tried, won't last.

speedraider

[QUOTE=HANNY;1583160676]second set of lowering bolts i have installed on my 09. The car only has 12,000 miles so needless to say the bolts stink!!!! Wouldnt be right to call out the 2 different vendors i used "BUT" i can say i think most if not all the lowering bolts are the same. [B]They just dont hold up and the rubber part wears thru quick, then starts to squeek, then wears into your control arm then youre really screwed. i corner pretty hard for sure but they should last longer then 6k per set.
This is just my experience and my driving habits arent like others who may not have problems with them but i did. [COLOR="Blue"]I'm an ASE master certified tech who knows a little about stuff,,, i thot about going hardbar but with the idea they may rub a groove in the control arm i decided not to. The issue i have with the ones i have is weak/bad rubber product that just doesnt last.

sure it would, they all know their selling absolute crap

Chets LS3

If I have issues with the hardbars I will go to a stock bolt and cut a rib.

I was very surprised to see the torn bolts like above didn't groove my LCa though

peter pan

Time to go coilovers for lowering with no issues.

switchblade six

Does this only happen in the rear...I want to lower as well and am aware of this issue so was going to cut a rib on stock...the rear has twice the rubber surface area so they must be under much more stress

Chets LS3

My rears were tore more than the fronts. Fronts tear too

CandyRed77

I have hardbar bolts as well in the rear (for about 30k miles now) and used to lube them based on comments I heard on the forum. A few weeks ago I was doing my winter-cleaning and as part of that I always clean off and replace the grease. When I cleaned it off this time, I clearly noticed that the dirt that got caught in the grease had worn an indent in my control arm The arm is pretty thick at that point, so I'm not too worried, but I left them ungreased this time to see if it gets worse... and if there are any noises...

Sonny

Chets LS3

Well I got caught in a monsoon last night. This morning hardbar bolts are squeaking their button off. Looks like I might go the remove a rib route. Also I haven't changed out the fronts but have a brand new set of hardbars for front too.

Wah

The stock ones wear out too; just take a longer time since the rubber part is thicker. The rubber part of the snubber actually rub on the control arm during suspension cycling because there is a difference in control arm and spring radii.

ZO ZICK

Drumhawk

I second this motion.

LFZ

I third this.

Chets LS3

Coilovers are high lol

SuperchargedStroker

I GOT TIRED OF BUYING PINS OVER AND OVER. I MADE THESE OUT OF SELF LUBRICATING UHMW. CHEAP AND NON WEARING. I have had my post taken down previously as they thought I was selling them and IM not a vendor. I am not selling them, just offering suggestion. Caps that go on the facotry pins, they have been on my car for 4 months and no wear thus far. Daily Driver too.
Screw paying up to $40+ a set. And to buy the Delrin ones, seriously this was way easier and alot cheaper and super easy to replace. I just pop the new one on when it wears.. Oh wait.. It hasnt.. LOL

SuperchargedStroker

The ride height is the same as the aftermarket in terms of low adjustability.
I have had no negative result so far. If you have a lathe I say get the material and make a set. If not, its not rocket science. A machine shop can wittle out a set in no time at all.
Material is like 20 bucks. I cut pucks from a rod of stock and then spun out the centers to fit. No squeaks, no grinding, and low height adjustable. I did put a little dab of marine grease despite lubrication from material but only so it wouldnt grind dirt in to the arms and material. I use alot of this stuf on automated cells at work, its good stuff (UHMW), and tough wearing.

switchblade six

GM and Vendoers listen up!!!