C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

How can you tell if a car is a real big block?

Old 08-15-2011, 09:55 PM
  #1  
Bugman Jeff
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Bugman Jeff's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default How can you tell if a car is a real big block?

I have what is possibly the most stupid question of the day. My boss is looking at a '67 big block coupe. The engine is a "CE9", which I've deduced is a factory replacment engine from '69(so it should still be a 427). All I get from the vin is "V8", and the trim tag just tells me color and interior. The build sheet is long gone. The hood is a '67 BB hood. My question is, aside from the data tag by the shifter and our taking the owner's word for it, how can we tell if this is a true big block car and not a converted small block? Thanks for the info.
Bugman Jeff is offline  
Old 08-15-2011, 11:17 PM
  #2  
Mark_Milner
Safety Car
 
Mark_Milner's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: FL
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 0
Received 56 Likes on 34 Posts

Default

Gut feeling only.

If you look for all the items that made a BB car different than a small block car, and they are there, then you have to determine if they were there always or if they were put on in the last restoration.

Sometimes the look and feel tell you the items are old and were originally there. Other times, they could have been installed yesterday. And the owner can be read.

But does this mean anything? No, since as an NOM car, no one is going to pay you anything extra when it comes time to sell.

So don't pay extra like it is an original.
Mark_Milner is offline  
Old 08-15-2011, 11:51 PM
  #3  
MiguelsC2
Le Mans Master
Support Corvetteforum!
 
MiguelsC2's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 5,474
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13

Default

Originally Posted by Mark_Milner

So don't pay extra like it is an original.
Without documentation it's just a BB with a CE block. All the BB stuff can be added easily.

MiguelsC2 is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 01:12 AM
  #4  
AZDoug
Race Director
 
AZDoug's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Camp Verde AZ
Posts: 12,434
Received 1,477 Likes on 904 Posts
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist

Default

And your chances that it was originally a BB car is something like 30% to 40%, though with a CE motor, the chances may be somewhat higher it was originally a BB,a s someone counterfeiting a BB car would probably go to the trouble of trying to do a real good fake job with restamps, correct dated block, etc.

I would suggest if it has a rear sway bar,and inboard differential U joints cast caps rather than U bolts on the U joints, it has a reasonable likelihood of being originally a BB car.

Doug
AZDoug is offline  
The following users liked this post:
Mary C (10-29-2017)
Old 08-16-2011, 12:18 PM
  #5  
wow
Drifting
 
wow's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Carson City Nevada
Posts: 1,294
Received 16 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

Remember...when the Corvette plant built a big block car vs a small block car, they got the body and chassis and just added or replaced parts...if someone puts in the right amount of time and money, buys the right parts, even buys the right documentation, it's almost impossible to tell if it's a "real" big block car or not. The big dollar big block cars are mostly in the hands of collectors anyway. Those are not driven, not at car shows, not on ebay...they are investment quality art. Anything else, is simply just a lot of fun to own and drive, and what's so bad about that. Good luck.
wow is offline  
Old 08-16-2011, 12:49 PM
  #6  
Mike Terry
Le Mans Master
 
Mike Terry's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Greenwood In.
Posts: 6,977
Received 270 Likes on 202 Posts

Default

1. Parts on the car NO to easy to fakes
2. Papers or Documentation NO To easy to fakes
3. Engine stamp HELL NO to many good fakes.
I guess unless you bought the car new or know the person that did and you are trying to get the car from them then and they have ALL the original papers there is NO sure fire fool proof way to tell. Maybe that is why I will never buy a BB Midyear Corvette. There are way more Big Block Corvettes (Original) on the road right now then GM ever built. NCRS has judged and passed (Top Flighted) more Big Block Corvettes then GM ever built and they know it. So what does that tell you. I am not going to say. Ha Ha Ha. I guess when there is Big $$$ involved then people will do what ever they can to cash in on the Big $$$$ and that includes FAKING Big Block Corvettes. There is my $0.05 worth.
Mike Terry is offline  
Old 08-17-2011, 09:15 AM
  #7  
provette67
Le Mans Master
 
provette67's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Kirtland Ohio
Posts: 5,340
Received 705 Likes on 383 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Bugman Jeff
I have what is possibly the most stupid question of the day. My boss is looking at a '67 big block coupe. The engine is a "CE9", which I've deduced is a factory replacment engine from '69(so it should still be a 427). All I get from the vin is "V8", and the trim tag just tells me color and interior. The build sheet is long gone. The hood is a '67 BB hood. My question is, aside from the data tag by the shifter and our taking the owner's word for it, how can we tell if this is a true big block car and not a converted small block? Thanks for the info.
you need someone experienced in these cars to take a look at it.First off the info you are giving us is of not much help.You state that the engine is a "CE9".Where are you getting that from? Is this a date that is cast onto the back of the block? If so you are reading it wrong as there are not two letters in the date.If it stamped on the front of the block you are missing more characters as there are more than three characters in a CE stamp.All Corvettes are V8 so you really getting nothing from the vin.The trim tag will also tell you besides color and interior a build date and body manufacturing plant.If the body was manufactured by A O Smith you can eliminate it as a big block car in 1967 as all big block cars had a St.Louis built body.
There is no data tag on '67 near the shifter.There are several things that are present on big block cars that are not present on small block cars.Some are different depending on which horsepower the car is.All big blocks came with a big block rear end.They have differerent side yokes and have a code stamped into the bottom that will you allow to decipher a build date as well as gear ratio.The ratio codes can be decoded big block or small block.There is also a rear sway bar on big block cars and none on a small block car.The radiators are completely different.Small blocks being aluminum and smaller while the big block car has as a copper radiator that is much larger.Gauges are different.With the high horsepower cars having 6500rpm redlines and 80lb oil pressure gauges.The hood mounts on the drivers side.There are even more clues to look for.And as others have stated knowledgeable people have been known to make changes to "build a big block car".
Have someone that knows what they are looking at check out the car.
provette67 is offline  
Old 08-17-2011, 04:16 PM
  #8  
Harps
Le Mans Master
 
Harps's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 1999
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 8,634
Received 137 Likes on 51 Posts

Default

Like others said, having someone knowledgeable check it out is the best route to go. If that's possible for you.

One of the harder items to swap is the fuel line. Unless someone does a frame off on the car, or had done it in the past, most of the time the hardline isn't replaced from a small block line to a big block line. Now, if someone is serious about faking the car, restamping a block, etc... then yes, they'll probably make the proper fuel line exchange.
Harps is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 05:47 PM
  #9  
twooldfarmers
4th Gear
 
twooldfarmers's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 80 psi Oil Pressure gauge

so is the 80 psi gauge specific to all BB cars or just some solid lifter models? I think I know of a car that is unmolested, or at least so I thought. It has the cast caps ons the half shafts, and a sway bar and I think it is a 3.08 ratio and yet it has a 60 psi gauge, were there anomalies in this regard?

Originally Posted by provette67
you need someone experienced in these cars to take a look at it.First off the info you are giving us is of not much help.You state that the engine is a "CE9".Where are you getting that from? Is this a date that is cast onto the back of the block? If so you are reading it wrong as there are not two letters in the date.If it stamped on the front of the block you are missing more characters as there are more than three characters in a CE stamp.All Corvettes are V8 so you really getting nothing from the vin.The trim tag will also tell you besides color and interior a build date and body manufacturing plant.If the body was manufactured by A O Smith you can eliminate it as a big block car in 1967 as all big block cars had a St.Louis built body.
There is no data tag on '67 near the shifter.There are several things that are present on big block cars that are not present on small block cars.Some are different depending on which horsepower the car is.All big blocks came with a big block rear end.They have differerent side yokes and have a code stamped into the bottom that will you allow to decipher a build date as well as gear ratio.The ratio codes can be decoded big block or small block.There is also a rear sway bar on big block cars and none on a small block car.The radiators are completely different.Small blocks being aluminum and smaller while the big block car has as a copper radiator that is much larger.Gauges are different.With the high horsepower cars having 6500rpm redlines and 80lb oil pressure gauges.The hood mounts on the drivers side.There are even more clues to look for.And as others have stated knowledgeable people have been known to make changes to "build a big block car".
Have someone that knows what they are looking at check out the car.
twooldfarmers is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 06:26 PM
  #10  
66BlkBB
Melting Slicks

 
66BlkBB's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 3,343
Received 84 Likes on 48 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17

Default

Originally Posted by twooldfarmers
so is the 80 psi gauge specific to all BB cars or just some solid lifter models? I think I know of a car that is unmolested, or at least so I thought. It has the cast caps ons the half shafts, and a sway bar and I think it is a 3.08 ratio and yet it has a 60 psi gauge, were there anomalies in this regard?


According to some on the forum, the answer to this question is "Yes". Some people have reported the 390 HP engine sometimes came with the 60# unit. Not sure if this is true.
66BlkBB is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 07:31 PM
  #11  
MikeM
Team Owner
 
MikeM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes on 1,398 Posts

Default

What is the difference between a factory installed BB and a nicely faked BB other than somebody's perceived notion of value?

They both run the same, sound the same, look the same. What's up?

MikeM is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 07:38 PM
  #12  
catpat8000
Pro
 
catpat8000's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by MikeM
What is the difference between a factory installed BB and a nicely faked BB other than somebody's perceived notion of value?

They both run the same, sound the same, look the same. What's up?

The answer is pretty simple. Buy a BB thinking it's real, pay $$$. When it comes time to sell, discover it's faked, receive $.

Therefore as a buyer you need to either buy cars explicitly acknowledged as not original or you need to be absolutely certain of their originality. Any other course of action leaves you open to a giant hit in the pocketbook when you sell.

Pat
catpat8000 is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 07:42 PM
  #13  
catpat8000
Pro
 
catpat8000's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by 66BlkBB
According to some on the forum, the answer to this question is "Yes". Some people have reported the 390 HP engine sometimes came with the 60# unit. Not sure if this is true.
I know of one car with provenance known to the original owner and several top flight awards which has both a 427/390 and a 60 psi gauge.

Pat
catpat8000 is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 07:43 PM
  #14  
StingU2
Safety Car
 
StingU2's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Park Bench #805 NE Indiana
Posts: 4,786
Received 70 Likes on 66 Posts

Default How can you tell if a car is a real big block?

It has a BB hood.
StingU2 is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 07:47 PM
  #15  
MikeM
Team Owner
 
MikeM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes on 1,398 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by catpat8000
The answer is pretty simple. Buy a BB thinking it's real, pay $$$. When it comes time to sell, discover it's faked, receive $.

Therefore as a buyer you need to either buy cars explicitly acknowledged as not original or you need to be absolutely certain of their originality. Any other course of action leaves you open to a giant hit in the pocketbook when you sell.

Pat
I am still mightily confused. Help me out. If it runs the same, looks the same and has all the OEM associated parts on the car, why is it worth any less than what some like to call a real one?

'ppears to me, the value is in the product, not in someone's fantasy?
MikeM is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 07:57 PM
  #16  
BADBIRDCAGE
Le Mans Master
Support Corvetteforum!
 
BADBIRDCAGE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Del Boca Vista FL
Posts: 9,613
Received 1,963 Likes on 1,055 Posts

Default

The best way to tell is to buy it new and never sell it.
BADBIRDCAGE is offline  
Old 01-30-2013, 11:44 PM
  #17  
midyearvette
Le Mans Master
Support Corvetteforum!
 
midyearvette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: columbus oh
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by StingU2
It has a BB hood.
midyearvette is offline  

Get notified of new replies

To How can you tell if a car is a real big block?

Old 01-31-2013, 02:41 AM
  #18  
Revfan
Safety Car
 
Revfan's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2012
Location: APO AE
Posts: 3,886
Received 171 Likes on 120 Posts

Default

MikeM
I am still mightily confused. Help me out. If it runs the same, looks the same and has all the OEM associated parts on the car, why is it worth any less than what some like to call a real one?
GM made a finite number of REAL BB cars. Just like Renoir made a finite number of paintings. REAL Renoir's go for MILLIONS of dollars. A copy of a Renoir, done by the worlds best faker... is worth... what you want to pay for it... $100? $1000? The point is, its not A REAL RENOIR!


There are things that knowledgeable folks look for when checking over a BB Mid-year to guage originality. Documentation, ownership history, broachmarks, Sway bar thickness. All of these things can be faked by the worlds best BB Faker.

So at the end of the day, the Worlds best BB Faker creates a car that is EXACTLY like one from GM during the 60s. Rides the same, sounds the same looks the same. BUT IT IS NOT Original.

The Faked RENOIR may look exactly like the one in the Musée du Louvre... same size, paint, hue... etc etc... but it is NOT and Original.

The Faked BB is worth what you are willing to pay for it... just like the painting.

Last edited by Revfan; 01-31-2013 at 07:12 AM.
Revfan is offline  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:49 AM
  #19  
Tiros
Pro
 
Tiros's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Somewhere in NJ
Posts: 539
Received 62 Likes on 50 Posts

Default

If it has the origianal front end, at least on 65, the battery is on the drivers side. Theres is an access panel in the inner fender liner. I dont know if small block cars have the access, if they don't, that seems like it would be hard to fake.
Tiros is offline  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:55 AM
  #20  
MikeM
Team Owner
 
MikeM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes on 1,398 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Revfan

GM made a finite number of REALL BB cars. The Faked RENOIR may look exactly like the one in the Musée du Louvre... same size, paint, hue... etc etc... but it is NOT and Original.

The Faked BB is worth what you are willing to pay for it... just like the painting.
Well, I would believe that likewise, what you're calling a real car is only worth what you're willing to pay for it.

So, if I have a totally crashed BB car that isn't worth fixing and I take all the OEM BB parts off the crashed car and install on a virgin SB car, I don't still have an original BB car with original parts?

Or, using your logic, if I have a "rea"l BB car needing some fixing up and I start buying used/rebuilt parts that came off who knows what and I put them on my car, am I somehow diluting the authenticity of my "real" car?

Renoir was an individual artist with a unique style and using paints/materials that you may/may not be able to duplicate.

A car is nothing but a pile of nuts/bolts that anyone can assemble.
MikeM is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: How can you tell if a car is a real big block?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:30 AM.