won't crank vats
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
won't crank vats
Reason I'm here I hope all GM vats systems are pretty much the same. I just bought a 95 caddy deville,was running fine,now won't crank. Read up on the vats system and measured the resistance in the key came up with 9.49K went to radio shack got 2 4.7 resistors cut the orange lead that comes from the ign. switch put the resistor between the two white wires in the Orange sleeve. Still No Crank.. Any advise what to do next.. Thanks
#2
Reason I'm here I hope all GM vats systems are pretty much the same. I just bought a 95 caddy deville,was running fine,now won't crank. Read up on the vats system and measured the resistance in the key came up with 9.49K went to radio shack got 2 4.7 resistors cut the orange lead that comes from the ign. switch put the resistor between the two white wires in the Orange sleeve. Still No Crank.. Any advise what to do next.. Thanks
I see posts on the Cadillac Forum and here! Are those the only two? Likely not!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-23-2013 at 04:09 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Measured them and it came within the tolerance of 2% also took the other key I have and put the wires on that to act as a resistor still nothing..
#4
VATS may be reading the key / resistors correctly but if the relay is bad you will get a no crank situation
Simplest test would be to hot wire the starter to crank the engine over.( Key on )
If it fires up (VATS shuts off the injectors ) you know the problem is with the starter circuit ie;
Ign switch , relay , P/N switch or the wiring itself to the starter solenoid
#5
That key switch is not the only part of VATS...
you also have the starter enable relay, which is a common failure and the first place to test the system. What SHOULD be done is test the orange cable with the KEY inserted to ON/RUN and see if there is the same resistance as going across the key pellet. THAT is how you tell if the key switch is working or not. If the resistance is OK< move on the relay then finally to the VATS module. The FSM for any GM car will describe the complete step by step diagnostic for VATS.
you also have the starter enable relay, which is a common failure and the first place to test the system. What SHOULD be done is test the orange cable with the KEY inserted to ON/RUN and see if there is the same resistance as going across the key pellet. THAT is how you tell if the key switch is working or not. If the resistance is OK< move on the relay then finally to the VATS module. The FSM for any GM car will describe the complete step by step diagnostic for VATS.
#6
The system needs diagnosed in order but if you wanted to jump to parts replacing etc the neutral safety switch is/was a frequent nuisance. You could check the voltages in and out and move forward. With your VATS by-passed can you take 12V to starter and crank? The N/S switch can be very intermittent. Which engine? That adds to the possibilities!
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That key switch is not the only part of VATS...
you also have the starter enable relay, which is a common failure and the first place to test the system. What SHOULD be done is test the orange cable with the KEY inserted to ON/RUN and see if there is the same resistance as going across the key pellet. THAT is how you tell if the key switch is working or not. If the resistance is OK< move on the relay then finally to the VATS module. The FSM for any GM car will describe the complete step by step diagnostic for VATS.
you also have the starter enable relay, which is a common failure and the first place to test the system. What SHOULD be done is test the orange cable with the KEY inserted to ON/RUN and see if there is the same resistance as going across the key pellet. THAT is how you tell if the key switch is working or not. If the resistance is OK< move on the relay then finally to the VATS module. The FSM for any GM car will describe the complete step by step diagnostic for VATS.
#8
I tested the Orange lead with the 2 white wires in it from the Ign. key switch.9.49k so this means No Broken Wires.. I was able to pull these codes from the DTC can anyone tell me if they would have anything to do with the No crank,before i go any further....I 052 P 052 I 033 I 039 Thanks..
http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
None appear related! I asked which engine? You've not answered. Did you check N/S switch? No.
http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html
http://z-cut.de/US/dtcobd1.html
#10
Under-hood at shift selector I believe. You should do much better over where you started on the Cadillac Forum. I'm familiar with the procedure to check but I can't lead you through it.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I think you are write on the money with the NSS I just jumped the starter and Wala it started. Now when I warm up again I'll test and replace NSS switch .. Thanks
#12
The NSS isn't inexpensive - do your diagnostics first! Don't just jump in like you did the VATS! Post back!
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#15
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JF...95_deville.pdf
Remove the sill plate and pull carpet back. I don't believe it that tough once you know you're looking in the proper area. The rest of your relays and maybe the theft deterent is maybe in the trunk attatched to the left side of the rear seat.
Enjoy!!!
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You'll love this one. I believe it's taped to the body harness in the vicinity of the drivers "kick-panel" maybe more towards the the rocker. This link should work for you:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JF...95_deville.pdf
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JF...95_deville.pdf
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You'll love this one. I believe it's taped to the body harness in the vicinity of the drivers "kick-panel" maybe more towards the the rocker. This link should work for you:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JF...95_deville.pdf
Remove the sill plate and pull carpet back. I don't believe it that tough once you know you're looking in the proper area. The rest of your relays and maybe the theft deterent is maybe in the trunk attatched to the left side of the rear seat.
Enjoy!!!
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JF...95_deville.pdf
Remove the sill plate and pull carpet back. I don't believe it that tough once you know you're looking in the proper area. The rest of your relays and maybe the theft deterent is maybe in the trunk attatched to the left side of the rear seat.
Enjoy!!!