johnt365

I love Craigslist. I have been hunting for a 2004R for a while and basically looking through most of Texas. I finally found one about 15 minutes away. Guy pulled it out of an 87 Monte Carlo SS to put in a 700R4. He included the converter, tv cable, carb bracket and a yoke. I couldn't believe it when I saw it.

Now I gotta figure out how to make it work. I am not sure on the drive shaft length, Ujoint and lock up function but I am sure this forum has the answers.


I have 3.55 rear gears so this should bring my starting ratio down just a bit and give me the overdrive gear.

I'd love to hear from anybody who has a CZF code trans on what to expect from a stock unit.

SIXFOOTER

If thats a healthy tranny you did Great!
If its replacing a TH350C you don't have to worry about the drive shaft length.
Bowtie Overdrives used to have a circuit to show you how to wire up the lockup, you need that too by the way, it will burn the clutches without it.
You will need to get the shifter upgrade kit from Shiftworx to makr the shift handle, detents and overlay inside to work out right.
Good find

johnt365

I will call them. I am replacing a TH400. If I understand it right, the 2004R should kinda bolt right up and use the existing mounting holes in the stock cross member for a TH 400.

MakoShark72

I replaced my TH400 and, other than changing out to the TH350 tailpiece, it was a BOLT IN swap. Even the cross-member holes lined up perfectly.

I bought the TV cable/instructions from Bowtie, as well as the shifter conversion kit..

It might be worth it to get the TV cable close, then run it by a local trans shop to have them "fine tune" it...

You're gonna LOVE the 200-4R!

7T1vette

Remove the sump pan and inspect for debris..metal chips, chunks, etc. If you only find some fine dark/black gummy stuff in the bottom of the pan, then you have a decent shot at having an undamaged tranny.

I would advise you to buy a new torque converter (with lockup, if you plan to hook it up....good idea, IMO) as the old one is likely getting pretty worn and is full of gunk. They are less than $100 and it is definitely worth changing.

Whether you have it rebuilt (or rebuild it yourself), or run it "as is" will be your choice. Rebuilding it now is the 'safe' approach. The driveshaft will fit up OK, but you will have to figure out how to swap over the shift linkage bracket and cable lockout hardware, while keeping those cables in proper position. You can't just swap over the brackets, as the pan bolt holes are different and that changes the positioning of those cables. Also, you need to connect the TV cable up to the throttle linkage at the carb, AND it needs to be adjusted properly so the clutches get increased apply pressure at WOT...or they burn up quickly, as mentioned above.

The 200-4R is the way to go for you and the '87 Monte Carlo SS unit already has the upgraded internals and later design features in it. Good luck on your swap!

damoroso

This will be as close to a bolt in swap as you'll find. If it was running in the donor car, and you're basically stock, I'd probably take the chance and bolt it in. If it has issues, you can pull it back out (it'll only take a couple hours) and build it, but the swap is done and it's just bolt it back in. As for the mythe of the lock up burning clutches...it's a mythe. The lock up function has nothing to do with the clutch plates in the trans. It's a clutch disc in the converter and if it doesn't work, it doesn't hurt anything except you don't get the benefits of the few hundred rpm drop you'll see when it's locked up. There are severaly ways you can wire the thing too. You can use a controller, you can wire it to pressure switches and relays or you can wire to a manual switch. The biggest thing is getting the TV cable adjusted properly. That can cause problems in the trans. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress!

Learning_Curve

Running without the lock up CAN cause problems on transmissions designed to use them. The problem comes from the slippage in the torque converter. The slip generates heat, and heat destroys clutches.

Alwyn678

sounds like a great Cash DEAL. I hope it works well! I LOVE my 700 R4

damoroso

Nope it doesn't. Converters are supposed to slip, it's a fluid coupling. How much is a factor of the stator and turbine. The lockup feature is simply a clutch disc that is included in the converter. If it's not used, the convert operates as a non-lock up unit. No additional heat or adverse effects. Although heat can destroy clutches, not using the lockup doesn't add slipage or create any additional heat at all. Aside from the lock up feature and what it takes to make that work, there's no difference between a lockup and non lockup trans.

How would not using this add heat or any detrimental impact to the trans? Another internet myth...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eWhkH2kTig

SH-60B

I ran a 700r4 in a DD pickup for years without lockup. No adverse effects. It's much more important to have the TV adjusted. You can easily do it yourself with a presure gage. You want to see the pressure start to increase the instant you touch the throttle. The tap for a gage is on the left side of the case.

mrvette

Dave, I just dropped my 200 for non lockup, and bought a kevlar clutch converter like the late 700's so that and the O ring on the shaft, will hopefully give me a lockup finally.....found a couple broken welds on the exhaust pipe crossover H....lovely, on top where not seen....so to Ricky's for rewelding damnit....hope it don't distort badly or it's going to be a mess getting back together....

pricesgarage

ive owned 2 monte carloss with 200r4s 3.73 plus i build trannys my stock 88 shifted firm not harsh ran about 2300rpm at 70 it would chirp 2nd on a cold road at wide open throttle around 5000rpm montess and gn units will go in to overdrive at wot other 200r4s will not tv cable has to be adjusted correctly 200r4s are alot ore sentive than a 700r4 cable adjustment if your running a holley or ekldbrock you will need a cable geometery corrector
if u use the origional converter check the hub for wear side new pump seal over the hub take some atf and pour on the seal to make sure it dosent leak around the hub just a tiny bit will do add a 700 seal retainer on it there used on 87 up 700r4 and 4l60es add a new filter and gasket dont use any sealant on the case side
all monte carloss had 3.73 so your speed o will be off a bit google speedo gears there sites will match u up to gear ratio and tire diameter
clean cooler lines with compressed air and brake clean
as for the lock up if u live in the mid west were theres a lot of flat land use a painless lock up kit so it will lock up in 4th gear normal driving if u do a lot of city driving or in a hilly region (west virginia) leave it un hooked it will work a lot better no side effects n hope thats enough info

7T1vette

Actually, running a lockup transmission on the highway without the lockup being engaged CAN overheat the tranny. These units are designed to have lockup ON when in high range and their temperature management strategy assumes that the lockup will be ON with high speed cruising. If it is not, that is slippage heat that is in excess of the intended design.

For MOST situations, that excess heat will not be an issue. But, in hot weather, with car somewhat loaded, it could start to "cook" the fluid. Besides, it will lower rpm's and save on fuel usage if the lockup clutch is used AS INTENDED.

damoroso

Sorry, you and I usually agree, but this is flat wrong my friend. If you view the video I posted, how is not using the lock up any different from a non-lockup converter? There is simply no way for the converter to generate ADDITIONAL heat simply because the lock up disc in the converter isn't engaged.

Hogvet

I have come across a 200r4 with the model number CTF on the tag, and suppose to be out of a 90 Caprice. Is this suitable to rebuild for my 79?

vette400

I have just finished my 200 r4 swap in my 79 and I love it. It is a fairly easy swap and you can get all the info you need right here on this forum as I did. The 200 is a very under rated tranny. I have mine matched up to a 400 small block with well over 400hp and it handles it well. The TV cable is the most important thing to get right. Not hard, but you can research yourself into confusion on this. Not that I would know anything about that. Good luck and enjoy 4th gear.

johnt365

regarding the CTF tag, use http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/...feature26.html and http://web.archive.org/web/200701281.../thm2004r.html to help you find a desirable performance unit. The big difference is the valve body. This piece can be upgraded but it costs $500 itself. http://www.ckperformance.com/200R4_valuebody.html

I called Bowtie Overdrives and asked them about the lock up or no lock up. I realize they are only in it to prevent warranty claims. Their kit locks it up in 4th and disengages with the brake switch. He said that when in overdrive, the transmission is working extra hard in od and can cause extra heat.

I am considering the following from them.
* Lock-up kit. Changes it from the factory operation to 4th gear only.
* EZTV kit. Has adapters for Holley carb and a spring that goes in the valve.
* New speedo gear
* Shifter kit.
* Conversion Ujoint
* Gasket/filter

Part of me wants to just buy the U-joint and install it to see if it shifts ok before I dump $400-$500 bucks on parts for it.

Another challenge to finding one if these units is the differences in nomenclature. 2004R, 200-4R, 200R4 or 200-R4

pricesgarage

every thing u listed is needed for a correct install so plan on buyn them

manofsteel1

Are we all saying that the 200R4 tranny is not good with the stock 3:08 rear in the vette with stock 350. Why?

manofsteel1

sure wish I had answers