Lost Fuel Pressure on the way Home
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Lost Fuel Pressure on the way Home
Was driving home. Made several hard pulls, everything was fine. Drove the last five miles at moderate speed and the fuel pressure guage starts beeping. The guage is indicating 10 psi. I did finally get it into the garage.
Car has an APS upgraded TT package, with MSD Boost A Pump. I found the 20A fuse closest to the BAP was blown. Replaced, blew again. Upped to a 25A as I have heard people having issue with the 20A fuse. It simply blew the 20A fuse that was feeding the relay block.
I checked the wiring on the relay block, all appears in order. I went back to a 20A fuse in front of the relay block. Fuses are holding. Checked the 20A fuel pump fuse in the main fuse block; it is fine.
I am getting no fuel pressure. Car wont start.
I removed the L (driver's) inner fender liner as advised to check the wiring to the fuel pump. I can see nothing in the area. Only see the filler neck and the ground strap for the filler neck.
Thoughts on what may have happened? Could the fuel pump have died?
Car has an APS upgraded TT package, with MSD Boost A Pump. I found the 20A fuse closest to the BAP was blown. Replaced, blew again. Upped to a 25A as I have heard people having issue with the 20A fuse. It simply blew the 20A fuse that was feeding the relay block.
I checked the wiring on the relay block, all appears in order. I went back to a 20A fuse in front of the relay block. Fuses are holding. Checked the 20A fuel pump fuse in the main fuse block; it is fine.
I am getting no fuel pressure. Car wont start.
I removed the L (driver's) inner fender liner as advised to check the wiring to the fuel pump. I can see nothing in the area. Only see the filler neck and the ground strap for the filler neck.
Thoughts on what may have happened? Could the fuel pump have died?
#2
Le Mans Master
Was driving home. Made several hard pulls, everything was fine. Drove the last five miles at moderate speed and the fuel pressure guage starts beeping. The guage is indicating 10 psi. I did finally get it into the garage.
Car has an APS upgraded TT package, with MSD Boost A Pump. I found the 20A fuse closest to the BAP was blown. Replaced, blew again. Upped to a 25A as I have heard people having issue with the 20A fuse. It simply blew the 20A fuse that was feeding the relay block.
I checked the wiring on the relay block, all appears in order. I went back to a 20A fuse in front of the relay block. Fuses are holding. Checked the 20A fuel pump fuse in the main fuse block; it is fine.
I am getting no fuel pressure. Car wont start.
I removed the L (driver's) inner fender liner as advised to check the wiring to the fuel pump. I can see nothing in the area. Only see the filler neck and the ground strap for the filler neck.
Thoughts on what may have happened? Could the fuel pump have died?
Car has an APS upgraded TT package, with MSD Boost A Pump. I found the 20A fuse closest to the BAP was blown. Replaced, blew again. Upped to a 25A as I have heard people having issue with the 20A fuse. It simply blew the 20A fuse that was feeding the relay block.
I checked the wiring on the relay block, all appears in order. I went back to a 20A fuse in front of the relay block. Fuses are holding. Checked the 20A fuel pump fuse in the main fuse block; it is fine.
I am getting no fuel pressure. Car wont start.
I removed the L (driver's) inner fender liner as advised to check the wiring to the fuel pump. I can see nothing in the area. Only see the filler neck and the ground strap for the filler neck.
Thoughts on what may have happened? Could the fuel pump have died?
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
It does not make any sound from the fuel tank and the guage stays at 0 psi.
Alan, when you say that the BAP crapped out, does that mean the BAP module died? Time to replace? If I am going to that length, I might as well upgrade the intake pump, lines, rails, larger injectors.... I consider the BAP to be similar to the old FMU as it seems like a "band-aid" approach to solving a recognized problem.
I wonder what a complete new fuel system is going to run? I think some companies make complete kits for the C5/C6 years. Anyone got thoughts on worthwhile fuel system replacement?
Alan, when you say that the BAP crapped out, does that mean the BAP module died? Time to replace? If I am going to that length, I might as well upgrade the intake pump, lines, rails, larger injectors.... I consider the BAP to be similar to the old FMU as it seems like a "band-aid" approach to solving a recognized problem.
I wonder what a complete new fuel system is going to run? I think some companies make complete kits for the C5/C6 years. Anyone got thoughts on worthwhile fuel system replacement?
#5
Le Mans Master
It does not make any sound from the fuel tank and the guage stays at 0 psi.
Alan, when you say that the BAP crapped out, does that mean the BAP module died? Time to replace? If I am going to that length, I might as well upgrade the intake pump, lines, rails, larger injectors.... I consider the BAP to be similar to the old FMU as it seems like a "band-aid" approach to solving a recognized problem.
I wonder what a complete new fuel system is going to run? I think some companies make complete kits for the C5/C6 years. Anyone got thoughts on worthwhile fuel system replacement?
Alan, when you say that the BAP crapped out, does that mean the BAP module died? Time to replace? If I am going to that length, I might as well upgrade the intake pump, lines, rails, larger injectors.... I consider the BAP to be similar to the old FMU as it seems like a "band-aid" approach to solving a recognized problem.
I wonder what a complete new fuel system is going to run? I think some companies make complete kits for the C5/C6 years. Anyone got thoughts on worthwhile fuel system replacement?
#8
Le Mans Master
It does not make any sound from the fuel tank and the guage stays at 0 psi.
Alan, when you say that the BAP crapped out, does that mean the BAP module died? Time to replace? If I am going to that length, I might as well upgrade the intake pump, lines, rails, larger injectors.... I consider the BAP to be similar to the old FMU as it seems like a "band-aid" approach to solving a recognized problem.
I wonder what a complete new fuel system is going to run? I think some companies make complete kits for the C5/C6 years. Anyone got thoughts on worthwhile fuel system replacement?
Alan, when you say that the BAP crapped out, does that mean the BAP module died? Time to replace? If I am going to that length, I might as well upgrade the intake pump, lines, rails, larger injectors.... I consider the BAP to be similar to the old FMU as it seems like a "band-aid" approach to solving a recognized problem.
I wonder what a complete new fuel system is going to run? I think some companies make complete kits for the C5/C6 years. Anyone got thoughts on worthwhile fuel system replacement?
If the BAP took a dump, there will be no voltage going through it to the pump.
BAPs work ok but.... I also look at them as bandaids, just like the old FMUs.... Unfortunately I will be running two of those bandaids on my own car...
I had heard/read that the MSD BAPs are even more problematic then the KB BAPs.
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara CA
Posts: 2,391
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Should be pretty easy to diagnose if you have a decent DVOM and know how to use it.
Behind the left rear wheel liner, you will find the electrical connector for the fuel pump wiring (it's where I have my Racetronix harness plugged in). See if there is power present when cranking and check the ground circuit. You can also check resistance of the pump itself. If it's an open-circuit, the pump is definitely bad.
I go by the "simpler is better" philosophy with most things. My fuel system is just a factory Z06 pump, and a Kenne Bell BAP with Racetronix harness. Simple, reliable, and effective. If the boost-a- pump goes out on me, I can just unplug the Racetronix harness and return it to the stock wiring setup to get me home.
I considered doing a twin pump in-tank setup -- but after seeing all the problems guys on here have with those types of systems, I decided against it. To each their own, though
Behind the left rear wheel liner, you will find the electrical connector for the fuel pump wiring (it's where I have my Racetronix harness plugged in). See if there is power present when cranking and check the ground circuit. You can also check resistance of the pump itself. If it's an open-circuit, the pump is definitely bad.
I go by the "simpler is better" philosophy with most things. My fuel system is just a factory Z06 pump, and a Kenne Bell BAP with Racetronix harness. Simple, reliable, and effective. If the boost-a- pump goes out on me, I can just unplug the Racetronix harness and return it to the stock wiring setup to get me home.
I considered doing a twin pump in-tank setup -- but after seeing all the problems guys on here have with those types of systems, I decided against it. To each their own, though
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of the responses. It looks like I need to take another look behind the L (driver's) rear inner fender liner and see if I can find the connection. I had it apart prior and did not see it.
I better take another look.
And I do like the idea of simpler is better. I really bought the car to be a driver, not a constant project.
Thanks again to all who responded.
I better take another look.
And I do like the idea of simpler is better. I really bought the car to be a driver, not a constant project.
Thanks again to all who responded.
#11
The following link shows you a typical driver's side rear fenderwell install of the BAP. I have seen some though installed under the hood near the fuse box.
http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_bap_install.pdf
http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_bap_install.pdf
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Update:
I couldn't figure out why I saw no connections behind the L rear fender liner. It turns out that the BAP output is fed all the way down the center tunnel then loops from the underside through the frame by the fuel lines over the top and the fuel pump harness is routed down by the fuel lines and they are connected on the inside of the frame rail.
Everything is held fairly secure, nothing appears to be chaffing, and nothing grounded, nor burnt. I pulled all connections loose, then reconnected and re-wrapped with electrical tape. Tried to start, again no fuel psi and popped fuse on the BAP.
I disconnected everything, inserted two jumpers from the original harness to the fuel pump. Viola, the car fires right up. And the fuse on the BAP did not pop.
So I know the pump is still good. No tank drop, hopefully!
Question:
1) How do I determine if the BAP is still good, or do I simply replace?
2) What are the chances that the BAP output has been shorted along the tunnel or above the turbo? It seems to be in good shape everywhere I can access.
3) Where is the best place to buy the replacement BAP? KB or MSD (currently have MSD)?
4) I really want to replace the relay block for the BAP and the Pimp Pump. Where to source? Does APS still support the C6 partswise?
Everything is held fairly secure, nothing appears to be chaffing, and nothing grounded, nor burnt. I pulled all connections loose, then reconnected and re-wrapped with electrical tape. Tried to start, again no fuel psi and popped fuse on the BAP.
I disconnected everything, inserted two jumpers from the original harness to the fuel pump. Viola, the car fires right up. And the fuse on the BAP did not pop.
So I know the pump is still good. No tank drop, hopefully!
Question:
1) How do I determine if the BAP is still good, or do I simply replace?
2) What are the chances that the BAP output has been shorted along the tunnel or above the turbo? It seems to be in good shape everywhere I can access.
3) Where is the best place to buy the replacement BAP? KB or MSD (currently have MSD)?
4) I really want to replace the relay block for the BAP and the Pimp Pump. Where to source? Does APS still support the C6 partswise?
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The following link shows you a typical driver's side rear fenderwell install of the BAP. I have seen some though installed under the hood near the fuse box.
http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_bap_install.pdf
http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_bap_install.pdf
Thanks for all of the good feedback. These comments have been quite helpful.
#14
Le Mans Master
At your power level, Get rid of the BAP and get a real fuel system. Don't fear dropping the fuel tank, It's only an hour long project.