Freight

This is a tricky one so I will start when the first time it did this (would not start). Roughly two months ago I was out in my corvette and stopped at a auto parts store to pick up some detail chemicals. When I went back out to start her up it would not turn over. I moved wires, listened for any clicks, and did everything I could think of but nothing. I ended up crawling underneath the car and sticking a screwdriver in the solenoid of the starter to get her started. Next I drove her home and parked her. After she was parked I went to start her again but nothing. A couple of days later I went back out, turned the key, and she fired right up… Drove her several times since than and she worked like a charm.

Today, I was out cleaning the inside. While cleaning, I had turned the steering wheel manual without the car running and rolled down the windows. When I was finished cleaning, I went to start her up and nothing (all power still works so its not the battery). I looked under the dash, moved wires around, and push / pulled on everything I could with the key held in the start position and nothing.

One wild thing I have never experienced before, while turning the key quickly from start to run I noticed a relay began clicking under the dash by the fuse box. I crawled under the dash and noticed is was a yellow relay (labeled C4) It was not attached to the fuse box, just near it with three wires. While it was clicking, I got out to see if any lights were flashing but nothing. I pulled the relay and tried to start the car but nothing. Reinserted the relay and it began to click again. I went to turn the key from start to run several times again and the clicking stopped. When the key is in the run position and the car in reverse, the reverse lights are on.

I have tried everything possible to get the car to turn over but I am having no luck. Do you all know how I can go about tracing wires with a tester to track down what might be the issue? Any help will be much appreciated. I know I can manual start her by jumping the solenoid but I want to track down the problem so this will not happen again.

bobs77vet

what year is the car?

do you have one of those old remote starter set ups to hook to your solenoid?

i think you need to isolate the problem to either the solenoid or the power/ignition switch.

when you turn the key does any of the dash board lights come on?

you can use a test light and see if the fuses that are powered by the ignition switch come alive when you turn the switch. if they do not come alive you know the problem is in the igniton switch circuit some where....if they come alive you then go to the solenoid and check for power.....you also have fusible links down at the solenoid.

we need to determine if you have consistent power going to the solenoid and that the solenoid works by jumping when the key doesnt. i wouldnt make any assumptions just check everything and clean every ground you can find

Freight

The car does not have any remote starter installed.

I need to find the starter relay and ignition switch. I believe the ignition switch is on top of the steering column under the dash.

When I turn the key, all the gauges work and lights do come on.

I will check the fuse panel and see if the fuses are receiving power. I believe they are since my raido still works but I will check them all.

I will go to the solenoid and see if there is power there. With the key forward in the run position, will there be power at the solenoid? (without the car running). I know I will power from the positive battery lead but the other two.

bobs77vet

waht year car?

remember this ..... that either of the two the fusible links in between the starter switch and solenoid could be melted.... i am kind of rusty on the solenoid wires .....but there are two small terminals and one big terminal.

one of the small terminals is powered by the key in the start position and the other terminal is powered by the ignition switch in the on position.....

the big terminal is from the battery.

so yes when the switch is on one of the small terminals will be hot, the other terminal will only be hot when you turn the ignition switch to ''crank".

you need to see if the solenoid will work when the ignition switch isnt.... both of those small terminals are fed by fusible links

Freight

The car is a 1982 Collectors Edition. I will get under the car and see what I can find out.

From what I’m getting is there are two small wires on the solenoid (plus one big battery direct).

One is hot when the key is held in the start position. The other is hot when left in the run position.

I will see what the results are. Also, lets say I am not getting a hot in the start position on the solenoid. What would be my next steps?

bobs77vet

yes the one terminal is always hot in the " on " position and still hot when cranking....

the other is only hot when cranking.

the thing to remember is that both of these circuits have fusible links down where they connect to the solenoid.....so if you dont have power where you should pull back the wire tubing and look at those fusible links to make sure they havent melted and created an "open" circuit.

this is why jumping the solenoid is good diagnostic test....since if you cant manually jump it then the solenoid is bad

Freight

Roger that! Thanks for the great advise!

speedreed8

could be neutral safety switch, put shifter in neutral, or push on it while in park and try to start it then.

Freight

Did that. Helt the key in start while I went from Park to first and back again.

crashdog172

been awhile but I believe the inner (closest to the block) small terminal on the solonoid is for cranking and the outer one sends battery voltage to the points when cranking

Freight

Roger that. That's good to know. I will check it first thing when there is light outsidde.

TimAT

Yep. That's correct.

Mariana

I just posted thin in the new member forum. Oh, Hey everybody.
__________________________________
Hey everybody,

I have been reading the conversations since November 2011. I have got great info from these posts but I have a serious (serious to me) problem.

Heres a brief history to present.

1973 L82. Stalled when hot at light and while slowing down. A few weeks ago it stalled out. I suspected fuel, wrong. Removed the HEI cap and the rotor was shattered. Replaced and everything new, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, and ignition module. Still no fire. She turns over fine but no start.

Ran fine for a week then stalled again. Figured the carb was dirty and causing the stalling. Rebuilt the Edelbrock 750 and installed today. Fired right up but idle was really rough. I turned it off and tried to start again and here we go, no spark (I guess). I have checked all wires including the IGNITION at the fuse box. when I connect the Ignition wire to the Batt port I sounds more like it wants to start but doesn't. I am stumped.

I'm thinking its the starter or too little battery power (my battery needs charging occasionally).

Any solutions?

lvmyvt76

You kind of highjacked this thread, why don't you start a thread of your own?

Mariana

Well, me and Freight are having the same issues that seem to could possibly have the same solution. No sense in starting a new thread when these problems can be solved in one. Do you have any ideas what it could be?

Mariana

Hey Freight, I found my problem. The IGN port on the fuse box has no fire. I wiggled the wires to the ignition switch on top of the steering column and it fired up. Haven't found the troublesome wire yet but im sure this is the problem. I have a new ignition switch and am waiting for the wires. I will tell you to remove the switch takes a 8mm on two baby bolts. And drop the steering column. I hope this helps your problem.