Most efficient drivetrain removal techniques/jigs/lifts discussed here! Experts/shops
12-20-2011, 04:33 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Most efficient drivetrain removal techniques/jigs/lifts discussed here! Experts/shops
I'm trying to develop the most time efficient techniques to remove the c5 drivetrain. Efficient for both clutch jobs, as well as engine swaps. I recall seeing a member here stating he'd gotten the drivetrain removal down to a science.
What I want to develop are jigs to remove this drivetrain, with the assist of a lift, in order to make it the most time efficient and least painful process possible.
Anyone who can contribute pics or info on what they feel are the most efficient methods to swap the motor or do a clutch job...please chime in. Any jigs used for the cradles, please post! The forum is a means for vendors to draw a lot of business...so vendors please lend a little know how for the sake of the community that supports.
What I want to develop are jigs to remove this drivetrain, with the assist of a lift, in order to make it the most time efficient and least painful process possible.
Anyone who can contribute pics or info on what they feel are the most efficient methods to swap the motor or do a clutch job...please chime in. Any jigs used for the cradles, please post! The forum is a means for vendors to draw a lot of business...so vendors please lend a little know how for the sake of the community that supports.
12-20-2011, 07:26 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I've done tons of searches...I've seen the motorcycle/tranny jack approach. I'm looking for answers from those who feel they've got it down to a simple efficient science. I saw a pretty nice torque tube/transmission jig someone built...i just can't find it again. I know people are out there with methods so I'd like to get it in one common thread plus maybe see some new ideas for people with lifts versus shade tree stuff.
12-20-2011, 07:35 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
12-20-2011, 08:42 PM
#5
Pro
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I never thought that part was so bad. It was the little things that were time consuming like taking off all the connectors around the trans and TT(especially if you have a trans/diff brace), seperating ball joints etc. Of course there's my favorite part, reinstalling the yoke into the rear bearing.
12-22-2011, 09:17 AM
#7
Tech Contributor
Originally Posted by RCOOOE
...for people with lifts versus shade tree stuff.
12-22-2011, 12:04 PM
#11
Drifting
If you had something like that that was able to support the front and rear, then it would be pretty easy to drop. Just remove the exhaust, brake calipers, and tunnel plate. Pull the calipers off and attach them to the body, disconnect the fuel lines, and unbolt the tops of the a-arms. I think once you've done that then you can just unplug the electrics and vacuum lines, then drop the front and rear subframes with the drivetrain attached.
12-22-2011, 12:39 PM
#12
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I can't remember which thread that was in eitehr.
If you had something like that that was able to support the front and rear, then it would be pretty easy to drop. Just remove the exhaust, brake calipers, and tunnel plate. Pull the calipers off and attach them to the body, disconnect the fuel lines, and unbolt the tops of the a-arms. I think once you've done that then you can just unplug the electrics and vacuum lines, then drop the front and rear subframes with the drivetrain attached.
If you had something like that that was able to support the front and rear, then it would be pretty easy to drop. Just remove the exhaust, brake calipers, and tunnel plate. Pull the calipers off and attach them to the body, disconnect the fuel lines, and unbolt the tops of the a-arms. I think once you've done that then you can just unplug the electrics and vacuum lines, then drop the front and rear subframes with the drivetrain attached.
post #12
12-22-2011, 05:19 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
It collects more dust than anything these days, but it does make the job a breeze the four times I actually used it.
The best thing about this thing is that the angle of the tt can be exactly adjusted so it just slides into the clutch like it had eyes of it own.
12-22-2011, 07:07 PM
#14
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St. Jude Donor '15
That's pretty sweet!
12-23-2011, 12:01 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Ahhh...my driveline rig!
It collects more dust than anything these days, but it does make the job a breeze the four times I actually used it.
The best thing about this thing is that the angle of the tt can be exactly adjusted so it just slides into the clutch like it had eyes of it own.
It collects more dust than anything these days, but it does make the job a breeze the four times I actually used it.
The best thing about this thing is that the angle of the tt can be exactly adjusted so it just slides into the clutch like it had eyes of it own.
02-06-2012, 12:46 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
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Cruise-In VII Veteran
USAF F16 wrench turner
OP'er, I need to make a jig this year, but for now drop the entire drivetrain on jackstands, lower the lift down to about 2 feet
Wheel to Wheel in MI had a pretty cool jig(they are gone)
Andy at A&A also has a cradle for engine swaps they made in-house
02-06-2012, 08:23 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '14
I have a good setup. no pics 
. I created it to change my clutch. I have a 2 post lift with scissor arms. I used tall tranny jacks with wheels, one in the rear and a second in the front. once I dropped the rear i was able to role it backwards as one unit. I like this set up because I can have the lift all the way up to walk under. Did my clutch in 6 hours 
. I created it to change my clutch. I have a 2 post lift with scissor arms. I used tall tranny jacks with wheels, one in the rear and a second in the front. once I dropped the rear i was able to role it backwards as one unit. I like this set up because I can have the lift all the way up to walk under. Did my clutch in 6 hours
Last edited by c5vette211; 02-06-2012 at 08:27 PM.
