Check Engine light
#1
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Check Engine light
I drove my brand new 11 6spd manual GS about 60 miles to a family function this afternoon. It was running great with no issues whatsoever. The car sat for around 4 hours while I was at the party. When I started it to leave I noticed my check engine light was on. It remained on the entire trip home. I tried loosening and retightening the gas cap, but the light remained on. My GS has a little over 300 miles, so I find this to be a bit troubling. Has anyone experienced such a problem with their GS? If so, what was the issue?
#2
Team Owner
As long as it's not flashing,you're ok.Could beeSome emission thing being detected,or to much air in or out...Bring it to your local AUTO ZONE or auto parts staore and have them hook up a code reader.They do this free at most places.In the mean time,check your air bridge connections to the maf and all that for leaks.
#5
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It's times like this when it is nice to have a scan tool. I bought a really nice one a couple of years ago when we owned our 2003 Tahoe. Nothing like knowing the problem in the event you have to visit a dealer for a repair you don't feel like doing yourself! Considering the car has such low miles I would agree it should go back to the dealer but it could be something silly that you could reset youself and never have a problem again.
#7
Instructor
ours came on at around 12k and it ended up just being a loose gas cap (ours seems a little weak, we always click it at least 3 times when tightening and we don't drive it a ton, so I will remove it and retighten every week or so between fillings).
We took it to the dealer and they cleared it and it hasn't been back on, but they (and others on here) told us that you should be able to drive it three cycles of more than 10 minutes (someone else chime in if this is wrong, I don't remember exact details) and the codes should auto clear and the light should go off if that is the issue.
And remember, these check engine lights are not something to panic about as long as the car is running good and all the other gauges look right. If it stays on after a few runs, swing by the dealer. Or go right away if it is close by like ours is.
We took it to the dealer and they cleared it and it hasn't been back on, but they (and others on here) told us that you should be able to drive it three cycles of more than 10 minutes (someone else chime in if this is wrong, I don't remember exact details) and the codes should auto clear and the light should go off if that is the issue.
And remember, these check engine lights are not something to panic about as long as the car is running good and all the other gauges look right. If it stays on after a few runs, swing by the dealer. Or go right away if it is close by like ours is.
#8
Instructor
It's times like this when it is nice to have a scan tool. I bought a really nice one a couple of years ago when we owned our 2003 Tahoe. Nothing like knowing the problem in the event you have to visit a dealer for a repair you don't feel like doing yourself! Considering the car has such low miles I would agree it should go back to the dealer but it could be something silly that you could reset youself and never have a problem again.
#9
Drifting
Typically this is to alert you that whatever condition is present has the potential to damage your cat converters. This is designed to help protect the very expensive parts of the system & prevent excess emissions out the tail pipes. Too much raw fuel in the converter could possibly cause it to overheat & cook the catalyst.
The manual gives this explanation:
Light Flashing: A misfire condition
has been detected. A misfire
increases vehicle emissions and
could damage the emission control
system on the vehicle. Diagnosis
and service might be required
The manual gives this explanation:
Light Flashing: A misfire condition
has been detected. A misfire
increases vehicle emissions and
could damage the emission control
system on the vehicle. Diagnosis
and service might be required
Last edited by jft69z; 11-13-2011 at 09:54 AM.
#10
Melting Slicks
If after recycling the engine 10-12 times and it doesn't turn off, maybe time to take it to the dealer. If it's due to the gas cap not sealing, it sometimes takes this many cycles to turn off.
I had this trouble with my '05 and finally just replaced the gas cap with an aftermarket gas cap from STANT (#10836) I was surprised how much better it sealed. No problems since
I had this trouble with my '05 and finally just replaced the gas cap with an aftermarket gas cap from STANT (#10836) I was surprised how much better it sealed. No problems since
#11
#12
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C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
Typically this is to alert you that whatever condition is present has the potential to damage your cat converters. This is designed to help protect the very expensive parts of the system & prevent excess emissions out the tail pipes. Too much raw fuel in the converter could possibly cause it to overheat & cook the catalyst.
The manual gives this explanation:
Light Flashing: A misfire condition
has been detected. A misfire
increases vehicle emissions and
could damage the emission control
system on the vehicle. Diagnosis
and service might be required
The manual gives this explanation:
Light Flashing: A misfire condition
has been detected. A misfire
increases vehicle emissions and
could damage the emission control
system on the vehicle. Diagnosis
and service might be required
#13
Can onstar diagnose this?
#14
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
It typically takes several (about half a dozen) ignition cycles for the CEL to turn off once it's been turned on. And only then if the condition that caused it cleared and doesn't appear again.
In other words, if it were a lose filler cap and you did seal it properly, the CEL wouldn't immediately extinguish
#15
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If you are curious you can have On Star check the code for you or run off to an Auto Parts store but the best thing to do is to take a trip to the dealer and let them address the issue. There are around hundred codes that can cause that light to come on. It may be a simple issue but it also gets it listed in the GM database which might be important later on.
Bill
Bill
#17
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You're working under a wrong assumption
It typically takes several (about half a dozen) ignition cycles for the CEL to turn off once it's been turned on. And only then if the condition that caused it cleared and doesn't appear again.
In other words, if it were a lose filler cap and you did seal it properly, the CEL wouldn't immediately extinguish
It typically takes several (about half a dozen) ignition cycles for the CEL to turn off once it's been turned on. And only then if the condition that caused it cleared and doesn't appear again.
In other words, if it were a lose filler cap and you did seal it properly, the CEL wouldn't immediately extinguish
#18
Team Owner
You can clear the codes by removing the negative battery cable for 10 minutes. After you reconnect, you will have to reinitialize the window indexing. If the CEL comes back on, then you have a current problem and skip AutoZone, etc and take it to the dealer. Included in the cost of the car was for them to fix the broken parts.
No one likes taking their car to the dealer, thus I suggested you disconnect the battery first. If the CEL was senior moment in the computer, then the CEL will not come back on. No different then rebooting your home computer by unplugging it and the plugging it back in after a minute or so.
If there is a problem, then the CEL will come back on and there will be a code set that the dealer's tech can read to diagnose the problem.
No one likes taking their car to the dealer, thus I suggested you disconnect the battery first. If the CEL was senior moment in the computer, then the CEL will not come back on. No different then rebooting your home computer by unplugging it and the plugging it back in after a minute or so.
If there is a problem, then the CEL will come back on and there will be a code set that the dealer's tech can read to diagnose the problem.
#20
Drifting
I would still want to know what the codes are before simply wiping them out. OnStar should be able to give you the code. If not, dealer/Autobone. If there is an emerging problem with the vehicle, it will be in your favor to have the code stored in memory for the dealer to see. Just wiping it out, or saying Autozone says it was P0XXX will hold little value to them. I don't take Autobones word for it when a customer brings a vehicle to me for a CEL. I want to troubleshoot it for myself. Depending on the code, if their vehicle is in warranty I won't clear it sometimes, this way the dealer can also see the history.
Last edited by jft69z; 11-13-2011 at 04:34 PM.