fishmen222

2002 A4 stock with 40k miles. Have had a few occurances over the last few months where I just barely touched the key (did not turn) and the car cut off. Happened when I was going to cut it off anyway, so just figured it was very sensitive. Tonight going over a set of R/R tracks, it just cut off. Restarted after three tries. Motor turns over and always "catches", but lately is more prone to taking several tries, but always starts. No codes set since I cleared them six months ago. 13.8 volts. Gauges/headlights had full power, it was if I had just turned the key to the on position from start. I have read BC's awesome post(s) on the issue, but in the forty pages I read, it did not sound exactly like my issue. I depend on this car to commute 100 miles a day and am a little concerned. I plan on checking/cleaning grounds and the battery condition and was just wondering if my senario sounded familiar to any of you. Hate to dig into the dash for no reason. Thanks in advance!

Eric D

If the engine cut-off happen as you stated, just as you touched the key, I would say this is a pretty good indication that the switch is highly suspicious. With the car idling you might try lightly banging on the dash by the key to see if you can cause it to kill the engine. If it does it would add a little more the the theory that the ignition switch is in fact the issue.

Gideon's_Test

The part that troubles me is that you state "Restarted after three tries. Motor turns over and always "catches", but lately is more prone to taking several tries, but always starts."

Do you mean that it cranks each time you try to start it, or that it doesn't always crank when you turn the key?

If it cranks every time you turn the key I believe this indicates that it is not the ignition switch. My understanding is that if the switch is faulty, it won't even crank.

dgrant3830

It sounds like you figured it out yourself. If you are barely touching the key and it shuts down, there's your problem. Replace or repair the ignition switch. Electrical contacts will wear out over time.

Bill Curlee

There are 5 switch contacts inside the switch. If one or more of the contacts or switch arms is corroded/burnt or the arm is not applying the correct tension on the contact points it is possible for that to be the issue.

Check out this IGNITION SWITCH post:

-C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

What DTCs do you see?? Read and post the DTCs that you have. If you have a ton of them, CLEAR ALL of them and see what comes back.

Bill

fishmen222

Thanks all. There were no codes thrown since I reset them six months ago with the exception of one 1214H and I know what caused that. I have had several LS F-bodies that occationally would take a second attempt to start. Always ran like tops and always started. The C5 started out that way until last night. When I state "caught" but then cut off, I am speaking of that moment you feel the engine fire and release the key. It does not always do it, but it is getting worse. I did everything I could to the key last night short of breaking it off and could not get it to replicate, then drove 50 miles home with no problem.

jcgunn

Try your other key and see if the issue duplicates

fishmen222

I wish I had another...just came with one.

fishmen222

Well, not too much progress. Ground wires and fuel pressure were fine. Have not gotten to the ignition yet (I work 12 hour night shifts, so even simple stuff takes me time). One thing I did notice is that the DIC is reading 11.7 volts while actual battery volts are at 12.6. Is that indicative of anything that rings a bell? The car now will not start until the fourth try everytime instead of intermittently, but as before, runs perfect afterwards. Still no codes thrown. Hopefully will get to the switch next week. Thanks a bunch guys!

fishmen222

Finally finished the switch and that was it. Runs like new. Contacts were showing 2500-3800 ohms resistance. Cleaned all per BCs post and all dropped to .0001. One symptom I noticed that I have not seen posted on this subject, is that the DIC was stating 11.7 volts while actual battery volts were 12.8. Now reads actual. Only took me two weeks to complete, so that should be a record as it really can be done in two hours max. Bills' repair instructions were spot on, but the dash disassembly instructions were too technical for me. I found a link another poster put on (in Bills' repair thread) that helped a lot (pics!). http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
Just follow until step six as this is for guage bezel replacement.


Thanks a bunch folks! It was nice to smoke them again today (tires).

Bill Curlee

WELL DONE and thanks for the feed back!


Bill

fishmen222

No....thank you Bill. That brings up a point I forgot to make. I researched for weeks on this forum and found many similarities to my situation (some exact), but no one followed up with a resolution. Please help us rookies out by posting the fix to your problem. I have turned wrenches all my life on old iron but I must admit, this car can be complicated with electronics. I am used to tuning a car with a screwdriver and a 3/8" offset distributer wrench. But dam I love this car! Thanks again folks, I am heading out to smoke 'em again!