DEBrahms

Guys, I just installed a new Delco remanufactured OEM starter in my '58. When I turn the key, though, I get nothing, not even a click. I transferred the wires exactly the way they were on the old noisy starter.

Here's a pic that might help:



Even though this starter (the one on the left) isn't a C1 starter, the solenoid terminals are similar to mine. Forgive my lack of proper nomenclature, but I have the fat red wire connected to the big center terminal. On the right-side small post I have a (what looks like) pink (faded red?) wire connected. On the left small post there are two wires, one with a spade lug and another with a circular connector (like the one on the right.

I don't understand why I have no juice (no lights, horn, turn signals, etc. when the ignition is "On") when the old starter was wired the same way.

Any suggestions to get me back on the road?

Thanks very much, guys.

Dave

zangx1

check your battery terminals
To make sure you have voltage then male sure the center on the starter has voltage

DEBrahms

Battery and terminals are good, Sonny, but I'll double check them again. How would I check the center terminal for voltage? Put one meter probe on the terminal and the other on one of the smaller posts? Sorry to be so dumb. That's why I need experts like you. :-)

Thanks, Sonny.

Dave

Frankie the Fink

These old starters are actually between the battery and the rest of the car's electrical systems...the battery goes to the starter; the starter is then wired to the ammeter which provides current to the rest of the car's circuits. So - you have something wired wrong most likely.

NOTE: Some savvy owners have wired a fuse behind the ammeter to prevent electrical fires and if some previous owner did that on your car the fuse might be blown (this takes out all the electrical juice to the car) .. so check that quickly.

Refer to the diagram and the terminal markings on the starter as shown and get it sorted out.
(The green wire off the starter goes to the ballast resistor but I didn't want to make the picture too big so its not shown)

AZDoug

You need two wires connected to the big terminal on the sonenoid, the battery cable and a 10 gauge power wire that feeds the wiring harness.

Doug

DEBrahms

Thanks for the diagram, Frankie. Very helpful.

Doug, you may have rung the bell. That spade lug I mentioned seemed way too big for the small post I connected it to. It looks like the right size for the big terminal. Maybe it slipped out from behind the battery cable when I loosened it and I didn't see it.

I'll make the switch.

Dave

Frankie the Fink

No offense, and we all have to learn somehow, but you are messing with dynamite with the extremely fire-prone, poorly fused, wiring on these old cars. Many a C1 has gone up in smoke (literally) due to faulty or mis-wired connections. Next time you swap a part take pictures of the old arrangement, have a wiring diagram and/or get help before re-connecting things. I'd hate to see you lose your car -- I had a C1 fire and I know the feeling...

If you haven't already put a 30 AMP ATC blade-type fuse in that black wire going from the starter to the ammeter now is the perfect time to install one. It protects about 99% of the car's circuits from a direct short...

Oh and here is the whole wiring diagram! You can zoom in and see details quite easily...

DEBrahms

No offense taken, Frankie. You're 100% correct. I installed a battery disconnect and religiously cut power from the battery after every run. I still have lots to learn from you guys here. Like you, I have healthy respect for the fragility of these old machines.

By the way, did you ever find the cause of your fire? How much damage was done?

Dave

Frankie the Fink

It was a carburetor fire from my dual quads bought off eBay and supposedly professionally rebuilt. Parked in the garage and started into the house and heard a 'pop' from the car..lifted the hood and flames shot up about 2 feet. Put out quickly with fire extinguisher but if I had gone in the house without checking the noise .... ooo boy!
Only damage was powder from the extinguisher (doesn't happen with Halitron) and years off my life.

Get yourself a Halitron extinguisher for your center glove box.

DEBrahms

Got one, Frankie. Did you happen to read in the Hagerty newsletter about the poor guy who melted his mid-year? Made me sick. Here's the link:

http://www.hagerty.com/lifestyle/hob....aspx?id=75132

Frankie the Fink

Wow! That's ugly - I suppose a fire could make a starter engage but its a new one on me...

DEBrahms

Just wanted to let you all know that my problem was that black wire that powers the wire harness. I had it connected to the green-wire post. Duh! I moved it to the center post and va-ROOM! On the road again!

By the way, does anyone have a picture of how that starter bracket installs? I couldn't see a configuration that matches the contour of the bracket.

Finally, my sincere thanks, Sonny, Frankie, and Doug, for your help and patience with know-nothing me. That's why this forum is so great. We who know little can get help from you who know so much. Thanks again, guys.

Dave

JohnZ

The starter brace looks like the photo below; the bottom end goes over the extended stud on the armature case end, and the top end attaches to an existing tapped hole in the block with a 5/16-18 x 1/2" bolt.

DEBrahms

Nice pic, John. Thanks. Is that a C1? My '58's brace looks like this:



Dave

JohnZ

The photo is a '63; your brace is configured differently, but attaches exactly the same way.

DEBrahms

Just installed my starter brace, John. It took some doing because of the cramped quarters, but it's good and solid now. Thanks again for the consultation.

Dave