Leather seats
05-02-2011, 07:24 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Leather seats
What is the best product and or method to clean leather seats they seem dull and i have used leather cleaners on them but seems to just temp brighten old dirt?
05-02-2011, 09:07 PM
#2
Former Vendor
Leatherique will do the restoring, then you can use Leathermasters to keep it clean.
http://www.autogeek.net/leleca.html -- Leatherique
http://www.autogeek.net/leather-master-auto-care.html - LeatherMasters
http://www.autogeek.net/leleca.html -- Leatherique
http://www.autogeek.net/leather-master-auto-care.html - LeatherMasters
05-03-2011, 06:45 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Since the leather is coated, why does it need a special cleaner?
Are we really cleaning the leather or just cleaning the coating? Been meaning to ask this question because I have no idea what is the best product.
Are we really cleaning the leather or just cleaning the coating? Been meaning to ask this question because I have no idea what is the best product.
05-03-2011, 07:17 PM
#5
Former Vendor
I can only add that coated leather that is not cared for properly "seems" to crack, fade, and get dirty over time. So something is perhaps better than nothing.
05-03-2011, 07:59 PM
#6
Former Vendor
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Coated leather is the most durable type of leather around, for that reason it is the most used leather in almost all car upholstery. Coated leather has a polymer surface coating containing pigments.
While the thickness of the surface of the coated leather may vary, it allows many manufacturer's to have more control over their leather products they put into their interior's.
You can clean coated leather seats and make them look as good as new. You just have to be selective and careful about the substances you apply to the leather and the manner in which you clean.
Using Blackfire High-UV Leather Conditioner, Leatherique or Optimum Leather Protectant has been the most trustworthy products around when dealing with your leather.
http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo...tcarprod1.html
While the thickness of the surface of the coated leather may vary, it allows many manufacturer's to have more control over their leather products they put into their interior's.
You can clean coated leather seats and make them look as good as new. You just have to be selective and careful about the substances you apply to the leather and the manner in which you clean.
Using Blackfire High-UV Leather Conditioner, Leatherique or Optimum Leather Protectant has been the most trustworthy products around when dealing with your leather.
http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo...tcarprod1.html
05-03-2011, 11:33 PM
#7
Instructor
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You are cleaning the coating, not the hide itself. Both Leather Masters and LTT Solutions are water based products which are good for maintaining leather which is in good condition. Leatherique was originally developed for Connolly type leather and is more of a restoration type product.
05-04-2011, 08:07 PM
#8
Former Vendor
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As the seats age, microscopic cracks in the coating occur, particularly around the afformentioned areas. The more and more the seats are worn, the more of the natural hide that is exposed (to some degree).
05-05-2011, 07:00 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
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There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by the leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer.
Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself
Automotive finished leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating that allows hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface protective finish. It is similar to vinyl but it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength and abrasion resistance to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate.
Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself
Automotive finished leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating that allows hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface protective finish. It is similar to vinyl but it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength and abrasion resistance to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate.
05-09-2011, 01:01 AM
#10
Former Vendor
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How to recondition Automotive Leather using the Leatherique Twins.
The majority of today's automotive leather is coated. This means that the actual leather hides under a top coat of material, often urethane. While the top coat makes the leather easier to clean and more resistant to wear, it also makes it harder to care for the hides underneath. This can lead to the hides drying out or rotting, giving a cardboard like feel. While most of today’s excellent leather cleaners and conditioners do a great job at treating the coating, Leatherique is designed to treat the hides underneath.
The three main types of leather.
Uncoated
Aniline- Aniline or uncoated leather is leather which receives its color during the tanning process. It is dyed through out the thickness of the hide. Since there is no protective coating, aniline leather will give the softest, most luxurious, and most natural feel of any leather type. However it requires extensive upkeep because leather is naturally porous and stains extremely easily.
Coated
Semi-aniline leather- Semi-aniline leather features a hide that has been dyed in the tanning process as well as a protective coating. The coating can be dyed or clear, and is usually very thin. This gives semi-aniline a very soft, subtle feel plus the benefits of coated hides. This type of leather is often used on an exclusive luxury cars and exotics, although it is becoming more common.
Pigmented leather- Pigmented leather is the most common form of automotive leather. A colored coating gives the finished product its ultimate hue and provides the highest resistance to wear. We should note that pigmented coatings vary widely in the quality of coating used. Some less expensive leather may feel almost synthetic. When the leather cracks on pigmented leather, the raw gray hide is often visibly exposed.
The most important step in maintaining today’s coated leather is keeping it clean! Grit and grime will abrade the leather’s surface like sandpaper, eventually polishing it to a high shine, and over time removing the top coat completely. Frequent vacuuming is the first step in keeping your leather happy. Wiping the coated leather frequently with water or a light cleaner such as a Blackfire’s Interior Cleaner will remove light soiling. And conditioning the coated leather with a high UV protectant such as Blackfire’s Hi UV Leather Conditioner will go a long way in preventing the coated leather from cracking.
A deeper approach.
Over time the coating will develop microscopic tears making it more permeable and exposing more of actual hide to dirt, grit, and worse, human body oil. For over 50 years Leatherique Restoration Products has been in business of treating and preserving leather. Their products deep clean the leather hide and restore suppleness and original feel.
Getting started.
First vacuum the leather thoroughly and inspect it. If the leather coating is extremely soiled clean it using a mild leather safe cleaner. For light soiling Lexol Leather Cleaner works great. For heavily soiling a non-caustic cleaner like Optimum Power Clean works extremely well. Spray the cleaner directly onto a cloth and wipe into the leather. Flip the cloth over and wipe clean. If there is still soiling use a leather friendly brush such as the Leather Brush. Remember to test an inconspicuous area first.
Vacuum thoroughly first
Clean the leather to remove topical soiling
After cleaning all of the leather surfaces to be treated we like to give them a wipe down with a damp towel, to remove any residue from the cleaners.
Heat
Leatherique’s leather restoration products work best when used with heat. We recommend using them on a warm and sunny day. First roll up the windows to your car and let it sit outside for about an hour to build heat into the interior.
Rejuvenate First!
Next begin by applying the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil to all of the leather you wish to treat. We like to attach a Trigger Sprayer to the bottle to make it easier to apply and recommend wearing gloves. Spray the leather liberally with Rejuvenator (for hard to reach areas spray the Rejuvenator Oil directly onto your gloved hands and apply). Then work the Rejuvenator into the leather with your hands paying special attention to the threaded areas and folds or sharp corners to insure that the product reaches the hide.
Attaching a trigger sprayer to either Leatherique product makes it easier to apply.
Start by rubbing Rejuvenator Oil into the hides liberally.
Roll up your windows to create a greenhouse and allow your automobile to sit in the sun for several hours. We recommend checking on it after a couple of hours. Reapply to any areas that have soaked up all of the oil and continue to let sit. Finally after 5-6 hours you should be ready to remove the excess product. Keep in mind that leather that is excessively stiff may require multiple treatments to restore original suppleness too.
Allow to sit outside with the windows up. Touch up any areas that adsorb and
appear dry.
Cleaning for that pristine finish.
After Rejuvenator has fully absorbed and conditioned the hides it will float out any grease and grime giving your leather a sticky, dirty appearance. Use Leatherique Prestine Clean to fully clean your conditioned leather. We recommend filling a bucket with warm water to aid in the cleaning process. We also recommend attaching a Trigger Sprayer to the Prestine Clean to make it easier to use.
First spray a section to be cleaned and wipe with a terry cloth.Then rinse out the towel in the warm water and ring until it is barely damp, and wipe the section again. Work a section at a time until the all of the leather has been cleaned.
Mist with Prestine Clean and wipe away the residue.
You can see how much dirt and grime has been released from the actual hides,
even though we cleaned the leather before starting!
A super soft, great looking leather interior restored to its original feel.
How often should the leather be treated?
How often the leather should be treated depends on the age and frequency of use. As coated leather ages the coating becomes more permeable and exposes the hide to more problems. If your leather is like new, than an annual treatment is necessary. If your leather is worn or highly used than we would recommend at least using Leatherique twice a year.
The majority of today's automotive leather is coated. This means that the actual leather hides under a top coat of material, often urethane. While the top coat makes the leather easier to clean and more resistant to wear, it also makes it harder to care for the hides underneath. This can lead to the hides drying out or rotting, giving a cardboard like feel. While most of today’s excellent leather cleaners and conditioners do a great job at treating the coating, Leatherique is designed to treat the hides underneath.
The three main types of leather.
Uncoated
Aniline- Aniline or uncoated leather is leather which receives its color during the tanning process. It is dyed through out the thickness of the hide. Since there is no protective coating, aniline leather will give the softest, most luxurious, and most natural feel of any leather type. However it requires extensive upkeep because leather is naturally porous and stains extremely easily.
Coated
Semi-aniline leather- Semi-aniline leather features a hide that has been dyed in the tanning process as well as a protective coating. The coating can be dyed or clear, and is usually very thin. This gives semi-aniline a very soft, subtle feel plus the benefits of coated hides. This type of leather is often used on an exclusive luxury cars and exotics, although it is becoming more common.
Pigmented leather- Pigmented leather is the most common form of automotive leather. A colored coating gives the finished product its ultimate hue and provides the highest resistance to wear. We should note that pigmented coatings vary widely in the quality of coating used. Some less expensive leather may feel almost synthetic. When the leather cracks on pigmented leather, the raw gray hide is often visibly exposed.
The most important step in maintaining today’s coated leather is keeping it clean! Grit and grime will abrade the leather’s surface like sandpaper, eventually polishing it to a high shine, and over time removing the top coat completely. Frequent vacuuming is the first step in keeping your leather happy. Wiping the coated leather frequently with water or a light cleaner such as a Blackfire’s Interior Cleaner will remove light soiling. And conditioning the coated leather with a high UV protectant such as Blackfire’s Hi UV Leather Conditioner will go a long way in preventing the coated leather from cracking.
A deeper approach.
Over time the coating will develop microscopic tears making it more permeable and exposing more of actual hide to dirt, grit, and worse, human body oil. For over 50 years Leatherique Restoration Products has been in business of treating and preserving leather. Their products deep clean the leather hide and restore suppleness and original feel.
Getting started.
First vacuum the leather thoroughly and inspect it. If the leather coating is extremely soiled clean it using a mild leather safe cleaner. For light soiling Lexol Leather Cleaner works great. For heavily soiling a non-caustic cleaner like Optimum Power Clean works extremely well. Spray the cleaner directly onto a cloth and wipe into the leather. Flip the cloth over and wipe clean. If there is still soiling use a leather friendly brush such as the Leather Brush. Remember to test an inconspicuous area first.
Vacuum thoroughly first
Clean the leather to remove topical soiling
After cleaning all of the leather surfaces to be treated we like to give them a wipe down with a damp towel, to remove any residue from the cleaners.
Heat
Leatherique’s leather restoration products work best when used with heat. We recommend using them on a warm and sunny day. First roll up the windows to your car and let it sit outside for about an hour to build heat into the interior.
Rejuvenate First!
Next begin by applying the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil to all of the leather you wish to treat. We like to attach a Trigger Sprayer to the bottle to make it easier to apply and recommend wearing gloves. Spray the leather liberally with Rejuvenator (for hard to reach areas spray the Rejuvenator Oil directly onto your gloved hands and apply). Then work the Rejuvenator into the leather with your hands paying special attention to the threaded areas and folds or sharp corners to insure that the product reaches the hide.
Attaching a trigger sprayer to either Leatherique product makes it easier to apply.
Start by rubbing Rejuvenator Oil into the hides liberally.
Roll up your windows to create a greenhouse and allow your automobile to sit in the sun for several hours. We recommend checking on it after a couple of hours. Reapply to any areas that have soaked up all of the oil and continue to let sit. Finally after 5-6 hours you should be ready to remove the excess product. Keep in mind that leather that is excessively stiff may require multiple treatments to restore original suppleness too.
Allow to sit outside with the windows up. Touch up any areas that adsorb and
appear dry.
Cleaning for that pristine finish.
After Rejuvenator has fully absorbed and conditioned the hides it will float out any grease and grime giving your leather a sticky, dirty appearance. Use Leatherique Prestine Clean to fully clean your conditioned leather. We recommend filling a bucket with warm water to aid in the cleaning process. We also recommend attaching a Trigger Sprayer to the Prestine Clean to make it easier to use.
First spray a section to be cleaned and wipe with a terry cloth.Then rinse out the towel in the warm water and ring until it is barely damp, and wipe the section again. Work a section at a time until the all of the leather has been cleaned.
Mist with Prestine Clean and wipe away the residue.
You can see how much dirt and grime has been released from the actual hides,
even though we cleaned the leather before starting!
A super soft, great looking leather interior restored to its original feel.
How often should the leather be treated?
How often the leather should be treated depends on the age and frequency of use. As coated leather ages the coating becomes more permeable and exposes the hide to more problems. If your leather is like new, than an annual treatment is necessary. If your leather is worn or highly used than we would recommend at least using Leatherique twice a year.
05-09-2011, 08:03 AM
#11
Former Vendor
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This is one of the best way's to clean and condition your leather.
" Wiping the coated leather frequently with water or a light cleaner such as a Blackfire’s Interior Cleaner will remove light soiling. And conditioning the coated leather with a high UV protectant such as Blackfire’s Hi UV Leather Conditioner will go a long way in preventing the coated leather from cracking "
Remember this is to clean the Leather and condition it.
" Wiping the coated leather frequently with water or a light cleaner such as a Blackfire’s Interior Cleaner will remove light soiling. And conditioning the coated leather with a high UV protectant such as Blackfire’s Hi UV Leather Conditioner will go a long way in preventing the coated leather from cracking "
Remember this is to clean the Leather and condition it.
05-09-2011, 05:27 PM
#12
Drifting
Don't touch those painted leather seats with anything! ANYTHING!
Leather seats don't exist anymore. Don't believe me...go look at your Window Sticker. You don't see the words, "Leather Seats" anymore. Instead you see "Leather Trimmed." All this means in the center panels of your seats are leather...the rest is vinyl. Yes, VINYL! Wanna verify...reach under your seat and pull up a loose end of the material you once thought was leather. Look on the back. The backing is made of looped white cotton. This is attached to the back of the vinyl to give it strength. Leather does not have cotton on back!
To match the color of the Vinyl, the manufacturers spray paint (it is not dye as many claim!) the leather. That's it! That's all your money got ya!
I have tried all the leather products out there; Zaino, Leatherique (what a mess!), etc. Painted seats cannot absorb anything! These conditioners just sit on top of the paint until you wipe them off with your clothes when you get in/out of the car.
Sure, the seats look great with this greasy conditioner on top of the paint, but it wipes right off! Greasy, oily conditioner looks shiney and great on your exterior paint until it gets dirty. The leather cannot absorb anything when they are painted!
The conditioners then get into the seems, stitching, etc., and collect dirt. The dirt acts as an abrasive and wears your seats even quicker!
Go get some Woolite Laundry Soap. Woolite is very mild and the PH balance is perfect. Mix it 10-1 with water and use a sponge or very soft brush to clean the seats. Wipe off with a wet towel. Wipe that off with a dry towel. This is as clean as your seats are going to get. The only way to make them look better for more than a day is to re-paint them. It is cheaper to simply buy new leather covers!
TRUST ME ON THIS ONE FOLKS! I have learned the hard way over the years!
Save your money....Save your seats!
Leather seats don't exist anymore. Don't believe me...go look at your Window Sticker. You don't see the words, "Leather Seats" anymore. Instead you see "Leather Trimmed." All this means in the center panels of your seats are leather...the rest is vinyl. Yes, VINYL! Wanna verify...reach under your seat and pull up a loose end of the material you once thought was leather. Look on the back. The backing is made of looped white cotton. This is attached to the back of the vinyl to give it strength. Leather does not have cotton on back!
To match the color of the Vinyl, the manufacturers spray paint (it is not dye as many claim!) the leather. That's it! That's all your money got ya!
I have tried all the leather products out there; Zaino, Leatherique (what a mess!), etc. Painted seats cannot absorb anything! These conditioners just sit on top of the paint until you wipe them off with your clothes when you get in/out of the car.
Sure, the seats look great with this greasy conditioner on top of the paint, but it wipes right off! Greasy, oily conditioner looks shiney and great on your exterior paint until it gets dirty. The leather cannot absorb anything when they are painted!
The conditioners then get into the seems, stitching, etc., and collect dirt. The dirt acts as an abrasive and wears your seats even quicker!
Go get some Woolite Laundry Soap. Woolite is very mild and the PH balance is perfect. Mix it 10-1 with water and use a sponge or very soft brush to clean the seats. Wipe off with a wet towel. Wipe that off with a dry towel. This is as clean as your seats are going to get. The only way to make them look better for more than a day is to re-paint them. It is cheaper to simply buy new leather covers!
TRUST ME ON THIS ONE FOLKS! I have learned the hard way over the years!
Save your money....Save your seats!
Last edited by Rob4092xx; 05-09-2011 at 05:33 PM.
05-10-2011, 07:03 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2004
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^^ There a lot of truth in this post. The 'leather' you are cleaning is at best a synthetic. There was a time when a (real) leather upholstery option was $2,000 and this was available on very few marques, now its hard to find any without 'leather' interiors.
Back in the day I used to detail my Father’s Jags and MB's, the seats were made of leather hide, and if you looked carefully there were slight differences in colour and the way they felt (patina) as the OEM did their best to colour match them. Cleaning leather took hours using Connolly leather products. Both Connelly and Leatherequi were formulated for real leather not the finished leather of today.
Back in the day I used to detail my Father’s Jags and MB's, the seats were made of leather hide, and if you looked carefully there were slight differences in colour and the way they felt (patina) as the OEM did their best to colour match them. Cleaning leather took hours using Connolly leather products. Both Connelly and Leatherequi were formulated for real leather not the finished leather of today.
Last edited by TOGWT; 05-10-2011 at 07:13 AM.
05-10-2011, 05:45 PM
#14
Former Vendor
Einszett Leathercare and Leathermasters are designed for coated (finished) leather. Leatherique has been proven by many to make a noted difference. I certainly have seen no harm after many years of use annually. I will however leave the choice to the end user ....
05-24-2011, 06:02 AM
#15
4th Gear
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I will recommend you do the same and get your seats steam cleaned.
05-24-2011, 08:11 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
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Don't touch those painted leather seats with anything! ANYTHING!
Leather seats don't exist anymore. Don't believe me...go look at your Window Sticker. You don't see the words, "Leather Seats" anymore. Instead you see "Leather Trimmed." All this means in the center panels of your seats are leather...the rest is vinyl. Yes, VINYL! Wanna verify...reach under your seat and pull up a loose end of the material you once thought was leather. Look on the back. The backing is made of looped white cotton. This is attached to the back of the vinyl to give it strength. Leather does not have cotton on back!
To match the color of the Vinyl, the manufacturers spray paint (it is not dye as many claim!) the leather. That's it! That's all your money got ya!
I have tried all the leather products out there; Zaino, Leatherique (what a mess!), etc. Painted seats cannot absorb anything! These conditioners just sit on top of the paint until you wipe them off with your clothes when you get in/out of the car.
Sure, the seats look great with this greasy conditioner on top of the paint, but it wipes right off! Greasy, oily conditioner looks shiney and great on your exterior paint until it gets dirty. The leather cannot absorb anything when they are painted!
The conditioners then get into the seems, stitching, etc., and collect dirt. The dirt acts as an abrasive and wears your seats even quicker!
Go get some Woolite Laundry Soap. Woolite is very mild and the PH balance is perfect. Mix it 10-1 with water and use a sponge or very soft brush to clean the seats. Wipe off with a wet towel. Wipe that off with a dry towel. This is as clean as your seats are going to get. The only way to make them look better for more than a day is to re-paint them. It is cheaper to simply buy new leather covers!
TRUST ME ON THIS ONE FOLKS! I have learned the hard way over the years!
Save your money....Save your seats!
Leather seats don't exist anymore. Don't believe me...go look at your Window Sticker. You don't see the words, "Leather Seats" anymore. Instead you see "Leather Trimmed." All this means in the center panels of your seats are leather...the rest is vinyl. Yes, VINYL! Wanna verify...reach under your seat and pull up a loose end of the material you once thought was leather. Look on the back. The backing is made of looped white cotton. This is attached to the back of the vinyl to give it strength. Leather does not have cotton on back!
To match the color of the Vinyl, the manufacturers spray paint (it is not dye as many claim!) the leather. That's it! That's all your money got ya!
I have tried all the leather products out there; Zaino, Leatherique (what a mess!), etc. Painted seats cannot absorb anything! These conditioners just sit on top of the paint until you wipe them off with your clothes when you get in/out of the car.
Sure, the seats look great with this greasy conditioner on top of the paint, but it wipes right off! Greasy, oily conditioner looks shiney and great on your exterior paint until it gets dirty. The leather cannot absorb anything when they are painted!
The conditioners then get into the seems, stitching, etc., and collect dirt. The dirt acts as an abrasive and wears your seats even quicker!
Go get some Woolite Laundry Soap. Woolite is very mild and the PH balance is perfect. Mix it 10-1 with water and use a sponge or very soft brush to clean the seats. Wipe off with a wet towel. Wipe that off with a dry towel. This is as clean as your seats are going to get. The only way to make them look better for more than a day is to re-paint them. It is cheaper to simply buy new leather covers!
TRUST ME ON THIS ONE FOLKS! I have learned the hard way over the years!
Save your money....Save your seats!
When I first started detailing five decades ago at my Father’s BMW, Mercedes-Benz dealership the seats were made of leather hide, and if you looked carefully there were slight differences in colour and the way they felt (patina) as the OEM did their best to colour match them.
Modern automotive finished leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Last edited by TOGWT; 05-24-2011 at 08:13 AM.
05-24-2011, 11:51 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2000
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Just use Lemon Pledge, like hot rodders have for the past 60 years.
No need to get so technical about a very simple task.
No need to get so technical about a very simple task.
Last edited by ztheusa; 05-24-2011 at 11:53 AM.
05-24-2011, 10:59 PM
#19
MALCO Leather & Plastic Cleaner.
Buy the spray bottle and mix 1:1 with water. Diluted mix will work FINE.
Alan Jackson's private jet with full leather custom interior can attest to this product!
Works on leather, suede, alcantara, plastic, and synthetics.
Buy the spray bottle and mix 1:1 with water. Diluted mix will work FINE.
Alan Jackson's private jet with full leather custom interior can attest to this product!
Works on leather, suede, alcantara, plastic, and synthetics.
