best spark plug for FI c6 ls2 ????
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
best spark plug for FI c6 ls2 ????
guys i am changing my spark plug.
i have a c6 ls2 with a aa kit and methanol putting out 600rwhp.
the car is also a daily driver.
please recommend the best plugs for my application.
i was going to go with then (ngk br7efs)
thank you for the advice
i have a c6 ls2 with a aa kit and methanol putting out 600rwhp.
the car is also a daily driver.
please recommend the best plugs for my application.
i was going to go with then (ngk br7efs)
thank you for the advice
#2
Drifting
NGK TR6's are what you need, I don't think there are anything else recomended.
#3
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I'd use the plug for the LS9. That's what I'm running.
.040 AC 41-104
Elmer
.040 AC 41-104
Elmer
#5
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Not to start a thread war or anything but before you lock in on the TR6, you might search the forum for threads on voltage/Alternator issues with the TR6. I had the TR6 initially and after reading the threads on the problems people were having, I changed to the ZR1 stock plug.
For example... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...age+alternator
Just saying....
Elmer
For example... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...age+alternator
Just saying....
Elmer
#6
Drifting
Not to start a thread war or anything but before you lock in on the TR6, you might search the forum for threads on voltage/Alternator issues with the TR6. I had the TR6 initially and after reading the threads on the problems people were having, I changed to the ZR1 stock plug.
For example... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...age+alternator
Just saying....
Elmer
For example... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...age+alternator
Just saying....
Elmer
I'm not sure I'd buy into above link...
Ok some basics "Ohm's Law", as resistance (measured in ohms) goes down, current (amps) go up, if voltage from coil stays the same. I = V/R, I is current (amps), V is Voltage (volts), R is resistance (ohms).
Why is this important, with FI we run a diminished/reduced gap on plugs... as gap is reduced so is resistance thus an increase in current... In the summer I think most C6 charging systems are on ragged edge (cooling fan running 90+% duty cycle, ac clutch ON, interior fan blowing...), then add in some copper and semiconductor losses (both go up with temperature) so seeing low voltage at idle is common especially with heat soaked engine bay.
I'd start by checking all grounds, because on my previous C5 I had issues on new car (not modded yet) and dealership couldn't find fault... well I found it and it was main lug under battery, but not before dealership replaced both battery and alternator. Excessive noise (back EMF) is usually a bad ground on cars.
Not sure what's going on with your plugs, but what gap are you running or is the gap closing? A higher current alternator will have better idle characteristics, how much additional load have you added?
That's my .02, but suspect root cause is not plug type.
Mike
Ok some basics "Ohm's Law", as resistance (measured in ohms) goes down, current (amps) go up, if voltage from coil stays the same. I = V/R, I is current (amps), V is Voltage (volts), R is resistance (ohms).
Why is this important, with FI we run a diminished/reduced gap on plugs... as gap is reduced so is resistance thus an increase in current... In the summer I think most C6 charging systems are on ragged edge (cooling fan running 90+% duty cycle, ac clutch ON, interior fan blowing...), then add in some copper and semiconductor losses (both go up with temperature) so seeing low voltage at idle is common especially with heat soaked engine bay.
I'd start by checking all grounds, because on my previous C5 I had issues on new car (not modded yet) and dealership couldn't find fault... well I found it and it was main lug under battery, but not before dealership replaced both battery and alternator. Excessive noise (back EMF) is usually a bad ground on cars.
Not sure what's going on with your plugs, but what gap are you running or is the gap closing? A higher current alternator will have better idle characteristics, how much additional load have you added?
That's my .02, but suspect root cause is not plug type.
Mike
#7
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Then you should tell him to read this properly because I have ben using TR6 since 2000 in my boosted application and never had an issue, both cars use the same spark plugs and I don't think I ever saw a problem as spinmonster had seen, but this statement make more sense.....Read this
Yep, read all of that, more than once actually. Your 2000, what engine? I had a twin turboed 98 camaro, it is still in this world, runs TR6 plugs and it's great. It has 730 RWHP on a LS6 engine. Not a whisper of a problem. TR6s work perfect in the setup.
I just went through a battery issue and have seen first hand how sensitive my 2007 electrical system is to the slightest voltage fluctuation.
He can read the thread and make his own decision.
Elmer
#8
Drifting
Yep, read all of that, more than once actually. Your 2000, what engine? I had a twin turboed 98 camaro, it is still in this world, runs TR6 plugs and it's great. It has 730 RWHP on a LS6 engine. Not a whisper of a problem. TR6s work perfect in the setup.
I just went through a battery issue and have seen first hand how sensitive my 2007 electrical system is to the slightest voltage fluctuation.
He can read the thread and make his own decision.
Elmer
I just went through a battery issue and have seen first hand how sensitive my 2007 electrical system is to the slightest voltage fluctuation.
He can read the thread and make his own decision.
Elmer
#10
Team Owner
Not to start a thread war or anything but before you lock in on the TR6, you might search the forum for threads on voltage/Alternator issues with the TR6. I had the TR6 initially and after reading the threads on the problems people were having, I changed to the ZR1 stock plug.
For example... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...age+alternator
Just saying....
Elmer
For example... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...age+alternator
Just saying....
Elmer
#13
Drifting
#14
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#15
Team Owner
#16
You choose sparkplugs based an hp ratings. However since you are making 600rwhp a TR6 will be ok. Much more power than that you should go 1 step colder , and also go to a non-projected tip.
Chris
Chris
#18
Safety Car
I have an A6 so I typically have to go into neutral and bring up the idle to 800-900 rpm from 650 rpm to keep the battery from draining below 12 vdc until we're finally moving again. Other than that situation, the charging system performs perfectly.
#20
Former Vendor
Almost everything that leaves here runs a TR6. I don't buy into the charging issues being caused by the plug. We have never come across that and we've built a lot of cars. They also need to be changed every 10k miles in a FI set up.