most-hated

pulled my codes and this came out what can i do to fix this ?

DeeGee

Do you have any individual codes? Individual failures within the modules normally throw certain codes (C1214 for an EBCM failure, C1287 for SWPS etc).

There was a similar post recently. The other guy contacted absfixer.com who said total loss of comm is normally a dead EBCM which makes sense to me. If the EBCM has failed completely it's a new EBCM module I'm afraid. Do you have another owner who would let you swap EBCMs to check it out?

most-hated

this are all the codes that came out lol



p0332 c Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Rear
p0705 h c Transmission Range Switch Circuit (A/T)
p0706 h Transmission Range Switch Performance (A/T)

tcs no comm

bcm b0432 h Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
bcm b0502 h RH DRL Relay Circuit
bcm b0503 h RH DRL Relay Circuit
bcm b0507 h LH DRL Relay Circuit
bcm b0508 h LH DRL Relay Circuit
bcm b2482 h Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
bcm b2527 h c Horn Relay Circuit
bcm b2567 h *****NOT LISTED ***************
bcm b2583 h LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
bcm b2587 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
bcm b2592 h Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
bcm b2597 h Traction Control System Switch Circuit *******
bcm b2721 h PASS-Key Detection Circuit
bcm b2722 h PASS-Key Detection Circuit
bcm b2723 h c PASS-Key Detection Circui
bcm u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction************
bcm u1016 h Loss of Communications with PCM**********
bcm u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC *******

ipc no codes


hvac b0333 h c Outside Air Temp Sensor Open


ldcm b2282 h Battery #1 Fault
ldcm b2284 h Battery #2 Fault
ldcm u1255 h Serial Data Line Malfunction
ldcm u1064 h Loss of Communications with BCM
ldcm u1016 h not listed
ldcm u1096 h Loss of Communications with IPC

a1-rdcm b2283 Battery #1 Fault

lucky131969

Good lord.....was this car in an accident? I would attack the serial data problem, and pass key detection first.

most-hated

yes it seems like it, can u give me more info on what u telling me like explain it more

BigGun

======================================== ===============

What is the car doing? Does it crank and run? Those look like history codes so you might try clearing them and see what comes back.

most-hated

Yes it works everything works just the tc woujnt turn on its always off and it wount burn out lkke if the tc is always on

Bill Curlee

Clear ALL of the codes and see what DTCs reappear. Those are the ones that you need to work.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



Pot the ones that come back and make sure that you list if there History or Current

DeeGee

Wow thats quite a list. As Bill says, clear them down and see which ones come back. Some of the codes could have been there for a long time and while its worth watching for any re-ocurrance they don't mean much if they're old.

Assuming the current codes (C) reappear:

Don't take my reply as gospel but in a recent thread, a member with the same TCS issue contacted absfixer.com who do EBCM repairs. He was advised that his EBCM was dead and could not be rebuilt. Replacing an EBCM is a DIY fix and will be way cheaper than going to a dealer. I'm sure with a "TCS No Comm", a dealer would just install a new EBCM (at a cost of about $1300). Its worth checking all the wires and connections to the EBCM just in case. If you decide to replace it you may find a used EBCM with one of the Forum vendors or on E Bay. A new unit is available from one of the Forum parts vendors.

The P1332 refers to a problem with the rear knock sensor on the engine. The PCM checks for a voltage and if it gets a bad reading it brings up the code. It could be a bad sensor or it could be a wiring issue. The troubleshooting procedure in the book shows a series of wiring checks with a multi meter to isolate the problem. If you feel confident to do those checks I can send a copy of the procedure.

I'm not finding P0705 I'm afraid. Are you sure of that number?

B0333 suggests the OAT sensor is dead. Its an easy fix.

Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Replacement
Removal Procedure



1. Disconnect the ambient air temperature sensor electrical connector.



2. Remove the push-in retainer securing the ambient air temperature sensor to the lower RH side of the radiator support.
3. Remove the ambient air temperature sensor from the radiator support.
Installation Procedure


Important
The ambient air temperature sensor must be orientated so that the sensor probe end is inboard and the electrical connector is outboard.
1. Install the ambient air temperature sensor to the lower radiator support.
2. Install the push-in retainer to secure the ambient air temperature sensor to the radiator support.
3. Connect the ambient air temperature sensor electrical connector.

Best of luck

most-hated

I cleared the codes but I can get to my vette right now since I'm out of town asoon as I get back ill drive it around and check the codes again to see what pops up