cell6ida

http://www.meziere.com/ps-1144-1112-wp319s.aspx

Has anyone used this, or a similar electric h20 pump? And can you verify/estimate how much hp this pump is worth? I don't want to buy this if the hp claims are not true.

Also would there be even more hp with more mods, or should the extra hp stay consistent regardless of how many mods are done?

Thanks!

Loaded08

Not really seeing how it would be worth more power with more mods as this mod doesn't really add so much as frees up, like a UD pulley or AC delete. I could be wrong, but doing it for power (as opposed to cooling reasons) seems to be an expensive choice.

Shadanigans

The logic of the electrical water pump is that it will free up power from your engine, not add to it. You have to figure there will be an incresed load on your electrical system, not sure what that will mean in the long run, or even if it would be a noticible drain. Sounds like an expensive add on that you probably wont notice any significant improvements from.

Jim_H

I thought these were primarily for drag racers so that coupled with electric fans they can cool the engine better between runs with the engine on or off waiting in line. How much HP could the standard water pump suck up?

dennis50nj

it cools very good in traffic, and at the track between rounds as it spins faster at a lower rpm then the stock, but going down the track temps run a little hotter at the finish line, as it doesn't spin as fast as the stock at higher rpm, its a good mod the polished looks good

Craigster05

Dont forget, the small things add up 5 hp here, 5 hp there, before you know it, enough little stuff adds up to get you the the traps first...an inch or a mile, a win is a win.

HuskerBullet

I've heard about this, too, that it definitely keeps the engine cooler in traffic.....and how often do you take it to the track? But, for $760......wow! I don't know.

BornSUPERCHARGED

Ok but there is more that can go wrong with the electric pump. At least 2 people on here have been left stranded because of the electric pump. That wouldn't have happened with a mechanical pump.

Is 10hp worth that?

Additionally, they say the mechanical is better for mid to high rpm. It's just one more thing to go wrong, sure you can make it blow the fuel pump fuse - great though now you're water pump isn't working and you've got a blown fuse But at least your car isn't going to over heat. If you drag the car exclusively, and have a trailer to get it back home, I can see that. But having been left on the roadside dead at 2am once in my life, I cannot see justifying this for the minor performance, pricey cost and risks associated. Your thoughts and specific motivational purposes for installing one will vary, but for people who daily drive them.. I don't need to die in the center lane of Dallas rush hour traffic because my pump quit working & have to get towed at 8am

There are much better things to spend the $500+ on.

ls3gotcha

I ran one on my old ls1 and she got 12rwhp out of it

filmjay

OP, what other mods are on your car and what do you use it for primarily? There could be lots of other things I'd do w/ the $800 for hp first. Ported Intake/TB, CAI, some nice headers from the forum classifieds, a nice cam package if you're a DIY'er, etc...just to name a few.

You buy it for the added low speed cooling capability, not for hp.

And yes, the more hp your motor puts out, the more will be freed from an EWP....not much, but it is a progressive curve.

cell6ida

I've got all the boltons, Varam, a cam, .....stall and ETP heads, rockers, springs, etc.... on the way.

I'm at 435 rwhp now through an A6....and I'm guessing 485ish after the heads are swapped out.

ls3gotcha

I run a electric waterpump on my girlfriends ls1 camaro ss with great success for over three years now. The car never goes over 160 on a hot summer day. You shouldnt wire it to your fuel pump thats ghetto. Put it on its own relay by itself.

dennis50nj

its wired on its own relay in conjunction with the fuel pump fuse so if the pump burns out or doesn't work the fuel pump fuse blows and wont run

HOXXOH

Maybe the better question would be to ask for before and after dyno sheets that would more closely identify the RPM range where you have the most interest. Anything less than that information won't necessarily apply to your needs. If you find that independent information, please post it for the rest of us.

jpee

Sorry for the long rambling post to follow... BUT.....


Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here.... lets say for example the electric WP gets you 12 HP...

So now you make a run down the 1/4 mile.. you have been sitting for 1 hr waiting until the track opens, and your engine temp is 130..

You go and do your burn out and make a run (example you run 11.87 and your engine temp was 150 deg AFTER you did your burn out...

Now you know your car well & it will run its BEST ET at 150 deg... so now after your run you drive back to the staging lanes and & your temp is 195.... you let it cool but 1/2 hr later your class is running again but your engine temp is now 145 deg.. you do your burn out stage and you are now at 175 (25 deg hotter than ideal) and you run .03 slower..

Now (speaking for myself) I don't care if I run 11.85 or 12.10 AS LONG AS I CAN PREDICT WHAT IT WILL RUN ON THIS RUN!..

All my data is figured on leaving the line at 150 deg. so now I have to take into account the higher engine temp, the hotter air (its now 12 noon not 10 am) and track conditions...

IF I have an electric WP when I get back to the staging lanes and my engine Temp is 190.... I just shut it off and run the electric fan & electric WP.. with the engine OFF it will cool to 135-140 in 10 min so when I go the the line my engine temp will be EXACTLY what I want for consistency... (That is why I have an Optima Yellow Top) to be able to run the electric WP & FAN between runs to get the exact same engine temp..

I also check the trans temp.. if that goes below 130 I put it in D and hold the break to stall it enough to get the trans temp to (Ideal 140-150)

So now I have removed 2 variables in figuring out what to dial my car at.. The Trans temp, oil temp, water temp are all at what I want!! So now I just have to worry about any changes in the weather, or the corrected alt. But I have a "TAG" weather station that I use to enter all my runs in and all the conditions i.e. weather, (corrected alt) engine temp trans temp etc... etc...

I have eliminated as many "variables" as possible.. I don't care if the car runs 11.95 or 12.10 as long as it runs the # I put on the window..

And YES the electric WP helps a lot in my getting the engine to the temp I want when I make a run.

>>>>>>>>>NOW<<<<<<<<<<<<<

For those of you who do not bracket race for $$ and only are looking for your new best ET or highest MPH.. you can do fine without an electric WP.. just sit until the engine is at its best temp for your run...

But I don't have that luxury when I'm in a race, and the track calls my class... I gotta be ready NOW!! they ain't gonna wait, so I gotta be ready and the electric WP and fan switch are invaluable tools along with my weather station...

LS1LT1

100%

dennis50nj

HOXXOH

While your post contains a wealth of information on the use and value of an EWP, it doesn't address the OP's question about the HP. Although, if the OP's plans have the same needs as you, then you've already answered his next question.

My biggest concern is how to prepare my reaction time for the arm-drop starts at Pinks All Out.

EliteGreg

One thing you have to understand is that if a mechanical pump pumps X water and an electric pump pumps X water, then the electric is guaranteed to use more power. This is because some electricity will be converted to heat while converting to mechanical. It justs pushes the load to the alternator so now the engine has to work the alternator harder. The only way you would see gains is if the electric pump pumps less at high rpm!!! See "Law of Conservation of Energy" Physics 101.

dennis50nj

you are right, and it does pump less at higher rpm then the manual pump pumps