thomastl

Does anyone have a detailed set of instructions on this repair. I can't seem to find a good overall description with pics.
Do you have to remove the rear cradle (wheel/frame assembly) or can you do it by just removing the upper control arm and shock like you would to remove the axle. Once you get the axle out - can you remove the cover?
Hope this makes sense.

vettenuts

Here is the link to the TSB. Make sure the sealer you buy is fresh and not been sitting on the shelf for a long time.

Link

FL_Dave

I fixed the drivers leak a few years ago after searching the forum for instructions. It has been a while so I don't remember all the details, but here are a few things that will help.

The differential mfgr, Getrag, made a mistake on the tolerances of the drivers side cover. You will need a new O-ring and anaerobic sealant. Anaerobic means that the sealant dries w/o the presence of air. The stuff I got from NAPA required a catalyst because the sealant requires iron (fe) ions to harden properly (as I was told). Since you are only doing this once, be sure to get the right stuff.

You don't have to drop the frame. I believe your axle removal procedure is all you need. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.)

Replace the axle seal as long as you are in there.

If your experience is like mine, when the job is finished and it's all sealed up, expect a little oil drip. Why? The original oil leak filled up the electrical wiring harness below with oil and you have to put a paper towel inside the casing to mop up all the latent oil. Once that is cleaned out, you can drive around for several years with a smile on your face.

Dave

thomastl

Thanks for all the info.
Last night I pulled the tire and gave it a good look. Looks like once I remove the axle the real problem is going to be that stud that goes from the transmission into the cover. There is not much treads sticking out on that stud past the existing nut. Hope I can get that thing out.
Friend with a lift is going to help me. Looks like an all day project.

Eric D

You have a good eye! The stud can be a real pain. Heat is your friend here. If you put some heat (propane torch) to the case near the stud the stud will come out using double nuts lock together on the stud. Once you have the stud out the next challange is fishing to cover out the axle opening. Rotating the cover 180° top to bottom will allow the bottom to tilt towards the axle opening and out.

To seal the cover flange I like to use Loctite 515 making sure to keep the sealant off the o'ring.

thomastl

Sealant - Dealer said he would give me some of that GM sealer that is used since I am buying the parts from him (the dealer also supports our local club so maybe that has something to do with it too).

thomastl

Took 2 hours to complete the task. Dealer stated it was a 6 hour job and wanted $750.00. I spent $65.00 on parts and gear oil.
We were able to do the job without removing the differential. Ended up the stud was the biggest problem. But once we applied a little heat we got it to break free by slightly tightening and then backed it out.
And it took almost 2 quarts of fluid to fill the differential back up.

Hope this helps others.

Here was our proceedure.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Definetly recommend a lift so you have room to move around.
2. Remove the left rear tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the brake caliper and hang on the gas tank cover.
4. Remove the spindle nut retaining the rear wheel axle shaft to the hub (36mm socket).
5. Remove the upper shock bolts.
6. Remove the bolts securing the upper control arms to the frame.
7. Rotate the suspension knuckle until the axle shaft clears the hub.
8. Release and remove the rear wheel axle shaft from the differential.
9. Remove the left muffler by removing the 2 bolts before the exhaust pipe bend over axle. Slide muffler forward to disengage muffler hanger at rear of car and rotate assembly to remove.
10. Drain the rear differential fluid.
11. Remove the retaining bolts and the damper/tuned absorber from the differential.
12. Loosen the nut retaining the transmission to the transmission LH mounting stud.
13. Install a second nut onto the stud. I had to remove the nut and install 2 shorter nuts since there was not enough thread left outside the original nut. I also had to heat the housing to get the stud loose.
14. Remove the stud from the differential cover.
15. Clean any dirt or debris from around the differential cover.
16. Remove the bolts retaining the differential cover.
17. Remove the differential cover from the differential. I had to pry it off by working it front and back to get off the alignment pin at the top.
18. Remove and discard the 0-ring seal and the axle seal from the differential cover. Axle seal was removed by taking a pry bar and tapping from the inside between the seal and bearing to remove.
20. Clean all surfaces and reapply grease to axle bearings.
21. Install new axle seal, PN 88996703, by tapping into place.
22. Clean the 0-ring sealing surface on the differential cover and the differential housing.
23. Install new 0-ring, P/N 89047953, to the differential cover.
24. Apply a continuous 3 mm (0.125 in) bead of sealant, P/N 1052942 (Canadian P/N 10953466), or equivalent, to the cover flange. Do not get on the new o-ring. Apply below o-ring in the lip of the housing and also on the edge of the cover and around the bolt holes. You are trying to create a seal outside of the o-ring.
25. Apply sealant around the bolt holes. Keep sealant away from the 0-ring.
26. Remove magnet from bottom of differential just inside housing and clean and reinstall. Make a note of which way was up. Does not really make a difference but I just wanted to make sure I put it back the way it was.
27. Install the differential cover to the differential. I had to take the bolts and slowly tighten going around the cover to squeeze it back into place. That alignment pin at the top did not want to allow it to just slip on.
28. Install the differential cover retaining bolts.
29. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (20 lb ft).
30. Clean the excess sealant from the left cover/housing splitline.
31. Using two nuts installed on the stud, install the transmission mounting stud to the differential cover.
32. Tighten the stud to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
33. Remove the second nut from the transmission mounting stud.
34. Tighten the nut retaining the transmission to the transmission LH mounting stud.
35. Tighten the nut to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
36. Install the damper/tuned absorber and bolts to the differential.
37. Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
39. Install the left muffler.
37. Install the rear wheel axle shaft to the differential.
38. Install the spindle nut retaining the rear wheel axle shaft to the hub.
39. Tighten the spindle nut to 160 N.m (118 lb ft).
40. Install the bolts securing the upper control arms to the frame. I placed a jack under the hub assembly and raised into position to align control arm and shock.
41. Tighten the upper control arm bolts to 110 N.m (81 lb ft).
42. Install the upper shock bolts. I do not have a torque setting for these bolts.
43. Install the left rear tire and wheel assembly.
44. Allow the car to sit as long as possible to allow the sealer time to dry before installing the fluid. I allowed mine to dry for about 30 minutes while I did a few other things.
48. Refill the rear differential fluid.
49. Lower the vehicle.

mrm1149

Great link......thanks.

Bill Curlee

Before I read these two post,, I would have NOT had the ***** to rip apart my DIFF for no ligiti reason.

I have a LOT more power than stock and always had the looming feeling of short output shaft failure under full power is terrible. Wanting to up-grade the Diff with better more reliable parts on the cheep has always been a goal. I hate to ship the rear out for someone else to do the mods and have to pay labor and shipping.

Check out these two post and you will get a EXCELLENT idea what’s in the DIFF, how it works, what fails and WHY and what you can do on your OWN to make your DIFF better!

I purchased all the parts from Gene Culley and a couple of things from DTE. This repair/up-grade was really easy, interesting and make things a LOT more rugged.

If nothing else, the pictures and guidance is worth the read:

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

Good luck on your repairs.

Bill Curlee