gravesjoey

I have a 1989 corvette. The car will start up fine if the vehicle is cold. After the vehicle starts to get warm, it will start breaking down and missing, then it will shut off. You have to wait until it cools down before it will restart. Replaced pick up coil, tested distributor module repeatedly and it never failed. Any suggestions?

engle1147

Checking the car for stored trouble codes is a great place to start. Checking fuel rail pressure would also be a good step.



p.s.

If the fuel injectors are "stock" remove them and then throw them as far as you can....install new ethenol compliant fuel injectors.

CorvetteMike2024

Runs fine in open loop? bad in closed loop? Check injectors.

Corvette Mike

gravesjoey

Fuel pressure at the rail was checked and fine. It will run fine until it goes to a closed loop, then it will cut off...

redrose

was that dizz module tested while 'hot' ?

gravesjoey

The distributor module was actually taken off of the car and taken to a local Auto Zone. I had them test it over 30 times repeatedly back to back. The module was too hot to touch.

engle1147

Checked for stored trouble codes?


Check for "open" or "shorted" to ground o2 sensor wire and/or failed o2 sensor.

CorvetteMike2024

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Mark85Vett

ohm out your injectors when hot. Should be around 16 ohms.

gravesjoey

I will try ohming the injectors when i get home. Is it possible that a distributor module would act differently while driving? Meaning....Is it possible that even though it tested fine at Auto Zone, that it could act differently while installed on a vehicle?

CorvetteMike2024

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gravesjoey

What can change it? Is it because of the computer? (Just curious...I never would have thought that...)

CorvetteMike2024

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impact1968

I had the same problem with mine. Went to autozone to have the module cycled (only did mine 10 times though, it neverfailed), it heated up but didn't get really hot like it would being on the car.

Everything on the car seemed to check out fine, but after i drove the car for about 20 minutes, no spark. It did this repeatedly.

So I rolled the dice and changed the module. Cleaned the old compound off, applied new compound, and the car hasn't shut off since. Been about 5 months now.

If everything checks out, "might" be worth a try.

redrose

try a 'known good' module (junkyard low $ or brandy-new big $) and if problem remains carry the 'old' one as a spare, module failure is common...'heat transfer grease' is MANDATORY for module longevity, in an emergency even vaseline or 'chassis grease' will probly get you home, but the 'real' goo is best (get 'goo' from any auto parts store or raddyshack)...if you hunt a j-y module, late '80's caddys use the same module as vettes, grab the caddy tin shield over the module and add it to your vette for EMI shielding upgrade.

my second best GUESS is a sick o2 sensor...if your existing o2 sensor is more than a couple of years old, a new sensor is a good investment for top engine ops anyhow, but ez to watch the o2 sensor voltage while engine runs using a scanner...voltage should continuously vary above/below o.5v, bad ones will most often read 'something' at cold start, then hang at o.2v or less as engine warms...shorted wire or corroded connector typ s near/at 0.0v immediately on startup...if changing an o2 sensor, most unscrew much better when too hot to touch, NEVER use excessive force as the threads in the pipe/manifold may be ripped out...let things cool off and use anti-sieze when installing another o2 sensor (new sensors typically come already coated with anti-sieze)

gravesjoey

Thanks. I have been really busy the past 2 days and haven't had a chance to check anything yet. I will post back as soon as I try a few things.

buckg2

keep me in the loop I have the same problem

dukecebrelli

SAME problem here too...