Michael99Vette

Here's some performance upgrades I've done and some numbers from a Dyno.
I installed the Vararam intake with the Power Duct. I had my car set up on a Dyno and tuned. Along with these changes I also had the 2.73 diff swapped out for a 3.73 diff (DTE).
Let me say, before I give you my numbers... these changes have really livened up my car. It's a thrill to drive now. I was pretty disappointed with the performance when I first got it.
Rear wheel HP = 305.32
Rear wheel TQ = 304.97
How does this sound for the changes I've done so far?
I'm still not real happy with the holeshot. It'll spin the tires now as before it wouldn't even chirp the tires. But it's still a little sluggish coming out of the hole. I know this car is way more powerful than the 85 Vette I had, but that 85 would light the tires up when I smashed the gas. I mean they would fry! No power braking needed. It was a riot to drive.

Let me know what you think.

2K14C7

Not bad for what was done. Bare in mind that the Vararam won't show much of a gain on a Dyno. It performs best on the road at higher speeds, not on a dyno with a fan blowing.

As for breaking the tires loose from a dead start. Have you tried it with the traction control off? I would suggest Competitive Mode as this will disable Traction Control but leave Active Handling on. If you have a 99 Active Handling was an option that year so you may not have it and therefore wouldn't have Competitive Mode.

Indy

You should easily be able to spin the tires without traction control, even without any mods...the gears will make the most difference in acceleration in your case...intake and tune make more hp, but you won't feel a huge difference...but going to 3.73 will be a whole new driving experience.

bryanthomas

2.73 to a 3.73 and the off the line power still disappoints? Sounds like you need to get a new stall converter. I would recommend either a Yank or Precision Industries. With those 3.73s and a 2800-3000 rpm stall converter you'd likely shave .5 seconds off your 1/4 time. Not sure if you drag race, but that kind of give you an idea of what a difference those mods make on an auto.

moserbe

Turn the traction control off and hold on to the steering wheel. My C4 will burn off the tires too but the C5 is an animal when you disable the anti-wheel spin system.

andrewdonald1

Screw it... I say throw a supercharger on it.....

At least that is my dream... maybe fantasy...

tlc0706

Curious what happened with the TC off....

RedRiderZR1

That's what I did. Now I can't seem to get any traction.

Another reason why you might not be able to fry the tires is Torque Management on your C5 auto trans. Disable that and then you should be able too. With a 3.73 diff, I would think you should be able to with traction control turned off. If not, take to a shop and have a tune done and have them turn off the Torque Management as well.

Then you should be able to make the tire companies happy.

Michael99Vette

I don't drive with the traction control on. That's one of the first things I do is take that off ( a single button on the console). The torque management control is off. DTE turned that off when they installed the 3.73 gears, and Vettesport comfirmed the torque management was off when he performed the tune on the dyno. I thought about a new stall converter, but I've been told by enough people that I should be able to fry the tires now, I thought I should find out why I'm not, before I add more parts.

andrewdonald1

what kind of tires are on it?

Vetteman Jack

Not bad numbers now, but what were the original hp and torque numbers? With the new rear gears, you should feel a heck of a difference in take off.

Todd157k

The difference you feel is from the rear end change, not the intake. You should either put headers/cam on it, or just go FI.

FI goes from "excitement" to "down-right scary" real quick.

rboineau

Unless you are running super high-traction tires, your car with the 3.73 should spin the tires into next week. Something is wrong. . . .

blacksedan87

I am a believer in the following:

1. Better breathing (intake improvement) requires better exhaust. If you can take more air in - you need to be able to get more air out. That means long tube headers, high flow cats and a cat-back exhaust.

2. Improved intake and exhaust requires a tune from a professional tuner to take advantage of the improvements.

With intake, headers, cats and a tune - you should expect something in the area of 35 rwhp gain, that plus your gear swap, you should be able to absolutely melt the tires.

Personally - I like the Kooks system with their high flow catted x-pipe.

blkvette98

I have the same mods as you but a couple in addition. Chuck C.O.W. talked me into a 2600 stall and later on he put a set of AR long tubes. You can lite the tires at will. I really like his work! Car really performs well. Its so much fun but Its hard to keep your foot out of it! Give him a call. I'm sure he'll get you pointed in the right direction.

Michael99Vette

The tires are Michelin ZP Pilot Sport A/S zero pressure 245/45 zr17 95y.
They were on it when I bought. And they're pretty new.

I just went outside and warmed up my car. In my driveway... I left TC on and nailed it. It started out not really frying the tires but spinning just enough to leave marks on the pavement and it felt a little doggy. A second or two. As the RPM's built it started to cut loose more.

Now... with TC off. Almost the same thing. At initial takeoff the tires were barely spinning. Just enough to leave marks and it felt doggy. Just like with TC on. The difference though, once the RPM's built the tires really cut loose and I left a cloud of tire smoke. But, I'll guess that
started to happen about 15 or 18 feet down the driveway.

It's hard to describe but that's the best I can do. What do you think?

C5 Pete

Spinning aint winning....

Long tubes and a street tune will really liven it up...