Mobil 1 vs Castrol Edge (8 x better)?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Mobil 1 vs Castrol Edge (8 x better)?
I watched the video that was an ad banner here on the forum website. 8X better is what I would say a big improvement. What do you guys think?
I watched it with an open mind and they did a good job beating down Mobil 1.
http://www.castroledgeusa.com/?utm_s...n=Castrol_EDGE
I watched it with an open mind and they did a good job beating down Mobil 1.
http://www.castroledgeusa.com/?utm_s...n=Castrol_EDGE
#2
Wake up Corvette owners. The only reason GM, and others, "recommend" Mobil One is because they get paid to do so. I use Castrol SynTech in all my engines from cars to boats to motorcycles to lawn mowers.
#3
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I buy the really cheap stuff that nobody recommends. Generic oil in a white can with black lettering.
Look, oil, just like soap, is pretty much a commodity item. Companies all have to figure out how to convince you to buy there oil over the others.
I believe that is why there are standards that a mfg'er has and if an oil is tested (properly) and meets/exceeds the standard then it will do.
I used Pennzoil in my 87 T-bird turbo when I had that car, got up to 192K miles, no turbo problems or any other engine problems. Just changed the oil regularly and made sure I did all the regular fluid flushes. Sold it in running condition, stock turbo and all.
Who keeps paying people to diss Mobile 1 ?
#4
A buddy and I were looking to distribute AMSoil synthetic oil when it first got started.
There is ABSOLUTELY a difference between dino blends and synth blends.
After 2-3k miles, most dino oils have degraded to the point of change. Without exception, every single one we tested degraded similarly.
Now the synthetics are not always as advertised. AMSoils pitch was the 15k mile oil change.
We had it tested and at 8k miles most of the esters were still in tact and no noticeable dillusion was noted. At 10k miles the oil was trash, roughly 10% of esters left. Time for an oil change.
But in debunking their claim we learned so much more about oils, synthetic or otherwise.
Having tested just about any oil you can think of now my reccomendations will always be:
Dino Oil: Castrol GTX
Synthetics: Redline, Royal Purple or Mobil 1.
Take in consideration this Castrol oil you are talking about wasn't out yet but anyone can follow the same process we did and have it tested to see for yourself. Don't take my word for it or anyone else's for that matter. Run Mobil 1 through the car and send a sample in 3k mile increments. Switch to 1k mile increments over 8k and 500 mile increments over 10k if it is still useable at this point. Then repeat the steps for this new Castrol synthetic blend.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
These folks provide excellent third party testing. We used them for our analysis.
There is ABSOLUTELY a difference between dino blends and synth blends.
After 2-3k miles, most dino oils have degraded to the point of change. Without exception, every single one we tested degraded similarly.
Now the synthetics are not always as advertised. AMSoils pitch was the 15k mile oil change.
We had it tested and at 8k miles most of the esters were still in tact and no noticeable dillusion was noted. At 10k miles the oil was trash, roughly 10% of esters left. Time for an oil change.
But in debunking their claim we learned so much more about oils, synthetic or otherwise.
Having tested just about any oil you can think of now my reccomendations will always be:
Dino Oil: Castrol GTX
Synthetics: Redline, Royal Purple or Mobil 1.
Take in consideration this Castrol oil you are talking about wasn't out yet but anyone can follow the same process we did and have it tested to see for yourself. Don't take my word for it or anyone else's for that matter. Run Mobil 1 through the car and send a sample in 3k mile increments. Switch to 1k mile increments over 8k and 500 mile increments over 10k if it is still useable at this point. Then repeat the steps for this new Castrol synthetic blend.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
These folks provide excellent third party testing. We used them for our analysis.
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#5
Exxon Mobil is much much more than a "Oil Supplier" to GM. There business partnership extends to product development with such things as the GM oil life monitor system. Bash Mobil 1 all you want and better yet use what you want. I'll continue to use a PROVEN winner that doesn't have to use misleading performance claims.
#6
Exxon Mobil is much much more than a "Oil Supplier" to GM. There business partnership extends to product development with such things as the GM oil life monitor system. Bash Mobil 1 all you want and better yet use what you want. I'll continue to use a PROVEN winner that doesn't have to use misleading performance claims.
Verify all claims yourself. And don't tell them not to use it damet!!! lol
<--Stockholder.
#7
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Good info.. makes sense.. Base stock in synthetics vary..
Mobil-1 is a good choice especially considering the price compared to RL. It's also readily available.. I would use RL oil if I tracked my car often.. M1 otherwise.
Mobil-1 is a good choice especially considering the price compared to RL. It's also readily available.. I would use RL oil if I tracked my car often.. M1 otherwise.
A buddy and I were looking to distribute AMSoil synthetic oil when it first got started.
There is ABSOLUTELY a difference between dino blends and synth blends.
After 2-3k miles, most dino oils have degraded to the point of change. Without exception, every single one we tested degraded similarly.
Now the synthetics are not always as advertised. AMSoils pitch was the 15k mile oil change.
We had it tested and at 8k miles most of the esters were still in tact and no noticeable dillusion was noted. At 10k miles the oil was trash, roughly 10% of esters left. Time for an oil change.
But in debunking their claim we learned so much more about oils, synthetic or otherwise.
Having tested just about any oil you can think of now my reccomendations will always be:
Dino Oil: Castrol GTX
Synthetics: Redline, Royal Purple or Mobil 1.
Take in consideration this Castrol oil you are talking about wasn't out yet but anyone can follow the same process we did and have it tested to see for yourself. Don't take my word for it or anyone else's for that matter. Run Mobil 1 through the car and send a sample in 3k mile increments. Switch to 1k mile increments over 8k and 500 mile increments over 10k if it is still useable at this point. Then repeat the steps for this new Castrol synthetic blend.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
These folks provide excellent third party testing. We used them for our analysis.
There is ABSOLUTELY a difference between dino blends and synth blends.
After 2-3k miles, most dino oils have degraded to the point of change. Without exception, every single one we tested degraded similarly.
Now the synthetics are not always as advertised. AMSoils pitch was the 15k mile oil change.
We had it tested and at 8k miles most of the esters were still in tact and no noticeable dillusion was noted. At 10k miles the oil was trash, roughly 10% of esters left. Time for an oil change.
But in debunking their claim we learned so much more about oils, synthetic or otherwise.
Having tested just about any oil you can think of now my reccomendations will always be:
Dino Oil: Castrol GTX
Synthetics: Redline, Royal Purple or Mobil 1.
Take in consideration this Castrol oil you are talking about wasn't out yet but anyone can follow the same process we did and have it tested to see for yourself. Don't take my word for it or anyone else's for that matter. Run Mobil 1 through the car and send a sample in 3k mile increments. Switch to 1k mile increments over 8k and 500 mile increments over 10k if it is still useable at this point. Then repeat the steps for this new Castrol synthetic blend.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
These folks provide excellent third party testing. We used them for our analysis.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '13
Based on the experience others are having, using Mobil 1 will allow my engine to be worn out after only 200,000 miles. Bummer.
#9
If you really want to know what's in your oil, like I do, stick with Amsoil or Redline. At least they're transparent about their oil formulations. As for Edge being 8x better than M1, that's measured by what the high-tech world calls a micro-benchmark. It's sort of like buying a car based on the 0-60 time.
Last edited by Irv; 08-15-2009 at 12:14 PM.
#10
Team Owner
Castrol is the company that, in a way, took the synthetic base stocks out of synthetic motor oil. Castrol Syntech is a hydroisomerized petroleum product, a so-called Group III oil, that isn't truly synthetic like oils based on Polyalphaolefin or Polyol Ester. In the late 1990s Castrol marketed Syntech as a synthetic oil anyway, because it could equal some of the specs of true synthetics. As I understand it, Mobil challenged Castrol in a BBB-arbitrated forum over this twisting of the term synthetic, but Castrol won, and now many (most?) mid-line synthetic oils are Group III-based. Perhaps there's not much difference in actual use (I don't know for sure), but why pay the same price for a product that arguably isn't as good? Why support the company that had enough contempt for consumers to think we couldn't tell the difference and should pay the same price for a cheaper solution?
If you really want to know what's in your oil, like I do, stick with Amsoil or Redline. At least they're transparent about their oil formulations. As for Edge being 8x better than M1, that's measured by what the high-tech world calls a micro-benchmark. It's sort of like buying a car based on the 0-60 time.
If you really want to know what's in your oil, like I do, stick with Amsoil or Redline. At least they're transparent about their oil formulations. As for Edge being 8x better than M1, that's measured by what the high-tech world calls a micro-benchmark. It's sort of like buying a car based on the 0-60 time.
#11
Team Owner
I used nothing but Syntec for years, Now I use the Edge, I like it so far!
#13
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The fact of the matter is the consumer does not have enough data to make an intelligent decision about what oil to use. The oil spec that a car manufacturer suggests meets the requirement for the needs of that engine. Things like gasket material, aluminum or alloys vs. steel engine components, RPM range, bearing clearances and size, tolerances between parts, operating temps, thermal expansion of engine components, etc. Just because an oil manufacturer says it is 8X better in one catagory that doesn't mean it is a better oil for your application. Use any oil that meets the spec suggested by the manufacturer and you will be fine. The guys with the lab coats have all of the data, you don't.
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#16
Team Owner
Let me see if I understand you correctly. If a car is sponsored by Valvoline, or Quaker State, or Pennzoil etc, they dump their oil out of their containers and put in Mobil 1 in their containers so the public, and their sponsors don't know the truth about which oil they are using.
Sure they do. If they do that bit of trickery, how do you know that when a car is sponsored by Mobil1, they don't dump their oil and fill their Mobil1 containers with a competitor's oil.
Sure they do. If they do that bit of trickery, how do you know that when a car is sponsored by Mobil1, they don't dump their oil and fill their Mobil1 containers with a competitor's oil.
#17
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#18
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Never had any car engine fail due to the selection of the oil used, in over 40 years of owning and driving cars.
Not saying that you should use vegetable oil, just sayin' . . . .
Not saying that you should use vegetable oil, just sayin' . . . .
#19
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St. Jude Donor '09 & '12, '14
inb4someonesaystocheckoutbobistheoilguy
I feel a huge sense of security putting in the car what is labeled on the oil cap.
I am quite sure we will see a nuclear meltdown if anything else is used.
I feel a huge sense of security putting in the car what is labeled on the oil cap.
I am quite sure we will see a nuclear meltdown if anything else is used.