1977POS-NICE

I would like to replace the stock 350 with a newer model engine. I have looked into the LS6 and Its a little more than I would like to spend. Although they do get good gas mileage?
I was thinking between these.
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En...9712&engCat=sb
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ild/index.html

1977POS-NICE

Or keep the original engine and spruce it up.

63Nova

also, you are looking at dropping major dollars converting everything to an ls based engine

63Nova

You can get good gas mileage if you select your parts to work together also,

1977POS-NICE

Would my best bet be to keep this one? Im tired of getting less power and more gas.

63Nova

I would,
If you have it bored .30 over, balanced rotating assembly, get new rod, main, cam bearings, full stainless roller rockers, good aluminum heads, edelbrock performer intake, get your quench at .40, get 10:1 compression, some headers with a full mandrel bent exhaust, a good hydraulic roller setup with less than .230 duration @ .050, a nice rebuild quadrajet, and most important get a GOOD TUNE, and use synthetic fluids in the trans, diff, and engine after break it I bet you will get some decent mileage.

63Nova

oh, and keep your foot out of it, real mileage gains comes from driving tactics.

1977POS-NICE

What would this cost to do? Also your not supposed to use fully synthetic oil since the car is old, correct?
Also whats decent gas mileage? I average 15 if that

63Nova

well, depends, can you build the engine yourself?

1977POS-NICE

Myself no, with some help from friends sure.

63Nova

probably looking at 3k total after parts and labor at machine shop, if you shop as conservative as possible.

PapaJ

I have a 77 and this is how my project started..

I wanted more power and less gas.. It caused all kinds of problems..

I wound up getting my L82 bored and blueprinted.. new heads.. big cam.. makes 330hp on pump gas. $1800.00 + labor

Then I had vacuum issues so I converted my headlights (electric) and brakes(hydroboost).. Now I'm trying to come up with a decent way to put my AC back to working order without vac control..

Looking back, I would have stayed with a mild cam and changed the rear gear. Tring to keep it as stock as possible.

Hope this helps,
Joel

1977POS-NICE

Ok, What if I buy bolt-ons, and change all fluids to synthetic... Clean it up, seafoam it.
(Because I have no idea where to buy any of that stuff)
The only things I have researched are some Throttle bodys Cold air intakes Tuners and such for a new mustang. This is way different.

1977POS-NICE

Papa you suggest keeping it stock and changing out the gear ratios?

PapaJ

If I had to-do it all over.. I would still use the orginal motor.. less cam/less power.. and change rear gear.

1977POS-NICE

Ok, By changing it you mean to something that has less power to conserve gas?

PapaJ

something that wont kill your vac.. If you want to go faster you can;
A-burn more gas
B-burn more money

....

The GM ZZ4 is $5K plus labor.. And then your at the "while I'm at it phase"..(total off-body resto-mod)

Try to stay in the cheaper zone... rebuild what you have.. You can play with rear gears to give you more drive-ability or more take-off power..

AllC34Me

I may be the only one taking this side of the debate but I bought a GM 350HO Crate Engine, hooker supercomp headers with side pipes, then installed a Tremec TKO500 Five Speed, changing out the rear gears to 3.55, steeroids rack and pinion steering, rebuilt the front end, rebuilding the rear now. Depending upon how many miles you have on the car and how you want to drive it you can go as wild or as mild as your pocketbook can handle. I cannot wait to launch my new "77" next spring. I did a fair amount of research on the engines. You can get 290HP with a basic 350 Crate Engine as well, in the $1900 range. I went for 330HP. The ZZ4 is quite a bit more expensive, well above $4K I believe. Also, watch out for turn key, the serpentine belt system won't have clearance under your hood I have been told. I went for the deluxe, not the turn key, then added aluminum radiator and spall fans. Have fun with your build and good luck.
David
77Sleeper

63Nova

Here is a price list I have come up with for you
Hot tanking, freeze plugs Boring, honing, truing deck, new hyper .30 over pistons, cam bearings, balance rotating assembly, press on pins, labor and install should be about $850.00 This is assuming you assemble the bottom end yourself, which I always prefer to do anyway.
Arp Main Studs For 2 Bolt - 57.00
Double Roller Timing Chain Set - 28.00
Lunati 60100LK Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kit - 175.00
Patriot Fully Assembled Aluminum Heads - 895.00
Standard Volume Oil Pump - 35.00
Head Bolts - 50.00
Pushrods - 50.00
Stainless Full Roller Rocker Arms - 150.00
Tall Valve Covers - 50.00
Edelbrock Perfomer EPS - 125.00
Rebuilt q-jet - 150.00
Felpro Master Gasket Set - 54.00
Flowtech Headers - 160.00
New 2 1/4" exhaust system should run about 400.00
Total - $3206.00
This is of course if you have the cherry picker, and reuse a BUNCH of stuff from the current engine such as the distributor, timing chain cover, assuming motor mounts are still good, air cleaner, etc..... Plus all the buddies to help guide you through the rebuild.
But you would be shaving weight off the front end, plus you would be getting better power and wouldn't lose any driveablity with this.
If I lived near you I would be more than happy to help you. Anyway, good luck no matter which route you go.

Black_Magic

GM ZZ4 crate is a safe/easy/reliable option and come with 2 year - 24,000 mile warranty

I purchased ZZ4 "LONG" block year & 1/2 ago for $3129 + $180 for shipping, delivered to my garage

Figure on $200-$500 for misc stuff...The kind of While-I'm-at-it-stuff

More pic and info ===> Click Here

George


As Delivered:



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