[Z06] Carbotech is now offering pre-bedded pads
07-07-2009, 10:55 AM
#1
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Carbotech is now offering pre-bedded pads
Carbotech Performance Brakes now offers pre-bedded brake pads in all compounds! In case you aren't familiar with this term, bedding brakes burns resins to keep your pad running most optimally. Tests have shown better performance and better pad wear due to our unique pre-bedding process. Carbotech's pads are now track or street ready from the minute they arrive at your door step. Just install and you're ready to roll. To have your brake pads pre-bedded is an add-on option, and must be requested when ordering.
07-07-2009, 03:56 PM
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
In case there are any skeptics on this I was a "test dummy" at Road America where we stop from over 140 mph 3 times a lap. I took them out of the box (XP12F/XP10R), put them on, and was braking hard on the first lap. It only got better from then on, and the reduction in hassle is even better!
John M Buttermore
T1 #52
John M Buttermore
T1 #52
07-07-2009, 09:44 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Carbotech Brakes are what stops my car from 157+MPH in the 1/4 and for anyone that has seen the short shut down at Kil-Kare raceway in Dayton Ohio, you know it takes good brakes for that! I can make the 1st turn off from 157!
Great Brake Pads!
Great Brake Pads!
07-08-2009, 12:04 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
In case there are any skeptics on this I was a "test dummy" at Road America where we stop from over 140 mph 3 times a lap. I took them out of the box (XP12F/XP10R), put them on, and was braking hard on the first lap. It only got better from then on, and the reduction in hassle is even better!
John M Buttermore
T1 #52
John M Buttermore
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Glad to hear, he's doing ok
07-08-2009, 12:49 AM
#5
I thought the bed in process was to build up a layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor. I don't understand how you can sell only prebedded pads without the rotors they were bedded to. In this case, it sounds like you're only selling used pads.
07-08-2009, 10:36 AM
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Indeed it certainly does seem contrary when considering the following (see #6) as excerpted from the "reference" provided below.
How to Bed-in Your Brakes
by Dave Zeckhausen
Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors. For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In / http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml.
Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.
When following these instructions, avoid doing it around other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. An officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.
1. From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. With some less aggressive street pads, you may need fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.
3. The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
4. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
5. If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
6. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
7. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
Reference: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
07-08-2009, 11:46 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Guys, there's nothing fishy about this procedure... many brake pad companies do this for their race pads... the PFC 01's I run come pre-bedded....
With pre-bedded pads, you skip the entire "street driving bedding-in" procedure... you can track them right out of the box... you'll get the transfer layer during your first session...
From the StopTech site, referenced in the above post:
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in Stock-Sized Brake Systems
by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports
When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are 'cooked' out of the pad.
The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.
The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are 'cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.
The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
Reference: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
With pre-bedded pads, you skip the entire "street driving bedding-in" procedure... you can track them right out of the box... you'll get the transfer layer during your first session...
From the StopTech site, referenced in the above post:
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in Stock-Sized Brake Systems
by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports
When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are 'cooked' out of the pad.
The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.
The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are 'cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.
The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
Reference: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
07-08-2009, 02:55 PM
#10
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Bedding is much more important for the brake pads then it is for the rotors. When you bed pads you are getting ride of the gasses and the material starts to cure. There is no out-gassing or curing with rotors. Yes, you need to get a transfer layer of material on the surface of the rotor, but you can do that in the first lap or two. If you want to go out and bed the pads anyway to get a transfer layer of material then go right ahead. It will not hurt anything. But, it's not 100% necessary. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments."
