Convertible top care
05-29-2009, 12:28 PM
#1
Cruising
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Convertible top care
Just purchased a 2001 Vette convertible and wanted to see what the best way is to care for the convertible top is. Looks to be new or has been really taken care of and would like to keep it that way. Any info would be appreciated.
05-29-2009, 01:34 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
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All roads seem to point to Ragg Top for cleaning, preserving. Best advice is to park it in the garage to minimize UV exposure, clean it when you wash the car, and if the glass begins to separate from the fabric (which is a common occurance), don't ignore the problem. Immediately buy some Rhino Glue and fix it before the window falls completely out. You will still be able to repair it, but it will be a much bigger hassle than if you can catch it early. The top on my 2002 vert still looks new. I never rub it with towels or anything else when I use the pressure washer at the self-serve car wash or in my own driveway. I let it dry naturally. So far, so good. And never drive it through an automated car wash, not even the touchless kind. Water shooting in from the sides will get under your window seals and you'll have a mess. Don't ask me how I know this.
Last edited by JMc; 05-29-2009 at 01:37 PM.
05-29-2009, 01:38 PM
#4
Pro
I also have a vert and just wash it with the rest of the car, i know there is convertible top cleaner you can purchase but i never found a need, after its washed i dry it with the chamois by laying it on the top and just pressing it with my hands, no rubbing, and leave the top up and latched for however long the top takes to dry. Once in a while i use one of those sticky rollers that you use for lint, it seems to work very well to get those little fuzzies that seem to get stuck on there
05-29-2009, 01:49 PM
#5
Pro
All roads seem to point to Ragg Top for cleaning, preserving. Best advice is to park it in the garage to minimize UV exposure, clean it when you wash the car, and if the glass begins to separate from the fabric (which is a common occurance), don't ignore the problem. Immediately buy some Rhino Glue and fix it before the window falls completely out. You will still be able to repair it, but it will be a much bigger hassle than if you can catch it early. The top on my 2002 vert still looks new. I never rub it with towels or anything else when I use the pressure washer at the self-serve car wash or in my own driveway. I let it dry naturally. So far, so good. And never drive it through an automated car wash, not even the touchless kind. Water shooting in from the sides will get under your window seals and you'll have a mess. Don't ask me how I know this.
) but my top looks new as well, plus I've found if I don't dry it I'll get some drip marks from the top on the body of the car which of course is insignificant but I get nuts with this kind of thing! Also IMHO don't ever use a pressure washer, you can damage your paint if any large particles are on the the car that are capable of scratching and also the water can get into undesirable places!
Last edited by DBL001; 05-29-2009 at 01:54 PM. Reason: additional info
05-29-2009, 01:51 PM
#6
Pro
05-29-2009, 01:57 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
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I agree with most of what you say, but the reason I dry mine (and I don't know how much sense this makes) is the water in my neck of the woods is heavy in mineral content, so I figure get most of it off so it doesn't dull the top with that whitish haze, I don't really know if it helps, after all it is meant to be in the rain (God forbid ) but my top looks new as well, plus I've found if I don't dry it I'll get some drip marks from the top on the body of the car which of course is insignificant but I get nuts with this kind of thing! Also IMHO don't ever use a pressure washer, you can damage your paint if any large particles are on the the car that are capable of scratching and also the water can get into undesirable places!
) but my top looks new as well, plus I've found if I don't dry it I'll get some drip marks from the top on the body of the car which of course is insignificant but I get nuts with this kind of thing! Also IMHO don't ever use a pressure washer, you can damage your paint if any large particles are on the the car that are capable of scratching and also the water can get into undesirable places!
05-29-2009, 02:54 PM
#9
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Just a tip here. Picked this up from my brother in law who is a C4 convertible owner. Washing and cleaning is a personnal preference, but if you run with the top down most of the time, as we both do, wear on the top, while it is down, bouncing around, will produce wear spots where it touches itself. Noticed this right away on my 02. Solution: Take an old thick sheet or thin terry cloth, two pieces cut about 8" wide and the length of the top from side to side. Place them in the creases as you fold the top up to store it under the waterfall. Prevents "ride wear" and doesn't affect the closure of the top at all. Just a thought, but I do it religously.
05-29-2009, 03:35 PM
#10
Racer
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I prefer 303 Aerospace Convertible Top Cleaner and 303 Aerospace High Tech Fabric Guard.
Though honestly I frequently just wash the top with the same soap as the rest of the car.
http://www.autogeek.net/303.html
Though honestly I frequently just wash the top with the same soap as the rest of the car.
http://www.autogeek.net/303.html
Last edited by Texas Dave; 05-29-2009 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Corrected product name
05-29-2009, 07:38 PM
#12
Drifting
Just a tip here. Picked this up from my brother in law who is a C4 convertible owner. Washing and cleaning is a personnal preference, but if you run with the top down most of the time, as we both do, wear on the top, while it is down, bouncing around, will produce wear spots where it touches itself. Noticed this right away on my 02. Solution: Take an old thick sheet or thin terry cloth, two pieces cut about 8" wide and the length of the top from side to side. Place them in the creases as you fold the top up to store it under the waterfall. Prevents "ride wear" and doesn't affect the closure of the top at all. Just a thought, but I do it religously.
I have a vinyl top (white) so it's really easy to clean and I do wipe RaggTopp protectant on it when it dries but this is a great idea for keeping it from damaging itself when stored.
05-30-2009, 06:02 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
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Rode & Schwalenbert Gmbn. (Germany) the world leading manufacturer of automobile convertible tops exclusively recommends Harrtz RaggTop Cleaners and Protectant. Developed specifically for cleaning, re-proofing and preserving convertible tops, these cleaning kits consist of two products:
1. Cleaner to remove soiling, stains and atmospheric pollution for both natural and synthetic materials. The best cleaners are formulated from low-pH (low alkalinity) and gentle enough for repeated use over years. They will rely on proteins and enzymes for their safe, but effective, cleaning power.
2. Fabric protector to re-proof and preserve fabric tops from the effects of water absorption, surface soiling and staining, and provide a sunscreen from UV radiation and subsequent fading. It has the best UV protection of any product on the market, and it repels dirt, grease, and oil. It doesn’t make your vinyl top glossy or greasy-looking. It will have the natural matte sheen of new vinyl.
Alternative product- this is the fabric protector recommended by Glen Raven Mills (Sunbrella) and the Haartz Corporation, 303™ High Tech Fabric Guard restores lost water repellence and stain repellence to factory new levels. It stops leaks, resists soiling and impedes mildew formation and helps protect against the sun's harmful UV rays.
Cleaning / Care Methodology
•Use a soft horsehair brush to remove any loose surface dust, use a lint lifter to remove lint from the fabric surface. Be careful around the rear window to avoid scratching
•Mask the areas around the fabric top with masking tape (3M® Painters Easy Release Blue Tape) also cover the rear window to avoid over-spray
•Shake product for 30-60 seconds to ensure even mixing
•With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
•Apply fabric cleaner (Harrtz RaggTop Cleaner) with a clean, damp applicator and leave to penetrate fabric for 10 – 20 minutes dependant upon stain. Gently scrub using a soft brush to get into the texture of the fabric.
•Repeat if necessary; applying two light coats are better than the application of one heavy coat: allow drying thoroughly between coats.
•Rinse off using a low-pressure water hose and a soft horsehair brush
•Dry with a waffle weave Microfiber towel using a blotting motion to dry excess moisture.
•Allow the fabric to dry for as long as possible (preferably 24-hours) before using the protectant. An hour or two isn’t long enough, it may feel dry but that’s only the uppermost surface layer (using a protectant on a damp fabric will ‘seal in’ the moisture and encourage the formation of mildew)
•Apply a fabric protector (Harrtz RaggTop Protectant) on the dry fabric, keeping about 6-8 inches above surface and using a back and forth movements spray lightly but do not soak.
•Alternatively use a soft horsehair paintbrush and apply light thin coats, if time permits, two light coats are better than one medium coat, using gentle sweeping motion. Do not saturate. Allow to dry 10-15 minutes between coats, and to dry thoroughly before using or storing.
•Remove all masking tape and any other materials
•Be sure to remove any accidental over-spray from paint or glass surfaces immediately with a damp Microfiber towel or a 1:1 isopropyl alcohol / distilled water solution. On paint work use a pre-wax cleaner if necessary or fine detailing clay.
•After treatment the top will bead water, when the beading diminishes (usually at 6 monthly intervals, dependent upon climate / use) it's an indication that it's time for another treatment.
1. Cleaner to remove soiling, stains and atmospheric pollution for both natural and synthetic materials. The best cleaners are formulated from low-pH (low alkalinity) and gentle enough for repeated use over years. They will rely on proteins and enzymes for their safe, but effective, cleaning power.
2. Fabric protector to re-proof and preserve fabric tops from the effects of water absorption, surface soiling and staining, and provide a sunscreen from UV radiation and subsequent fading. It has the best UV protection of any product on the market, and it repels dirt, grease, and oil. It doesn’t make your vinyl top glossy or greasy-looking. It will have the natural matte sheen of new vinyl.
Alternative product- this is the fabric protector recommended by Glen Raven Mills (Sunbrella) and the Haartz Corporation, 303™ High Tech Fabric Guard restores lost water repellence and stain repellence to factory new levels. It stops leaks, resists soiling and impedes mildew formation and helps protect against the sun's harmful UV rays.
Cleaning / Care Methodology
•Use a soft horsehair brush to remove any loose surface dust, use a lint lifter to remove lint from the fabric surface. Be careful around the rear window to avoid scratching
•Mask the areas around the fabric top with masking tape (3M® Painters Easy Release Blue Tape) also cover the rear window to avoid over-spray
•Shake product for 30-60 seconds to ensure even mixing
•With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
•Apply fabric cleaner (Harrtz RaggTop Cleaner) with a clean, damp applicator and leave to penetrate fabric for 10 – 20 minutes dependant upon stain. Gently scrub using a soft brush to get into the texture of the fabric.
•Repeat if necessary; applying two light coats are better than the application of one heavy coat: allow drying thoroughly between coats.
•Rinse off using a low-pressure water hose and a soft horsehair brush
•Dry with a waffle weave Microfiber towel using a blotting motion to dry excess moisture.
•Allow the fabric to dry for as long as possible (preferably 24-hours) before using the protectant. An hour or two isn’t long enough, it may feel dry but that’s only the uppermost surface layer (using a protectant on a damp fabric will ‘seal in’ the moisture and encourage the formation of mildew)
•Apply a fabric protector (Harrtz RaggTop Protectant) on the dry fabric, keeping about 6-8 inches above surface and using a back and forth movements spray lightly but do not soak.
•Alternatively use a soft horsehair paintbrush and apply light thin coats, if time permits, two light coats are better than one medium coat, using gentle sweeping motion. Do not saturate. Allow to dry 10-15 minutes between coats, and to dry thoroughly before using or storing.
•Remove all masking tape and any other materials
•Be sure to remove any accidental over-spray from paint or glass surfaces immediately with a damp Microfiber towel or a 1:1 isopropyl alcohol / distilled water solution. On paint work use a pre-wax cleaner if necessary or fine detailing clay.
•After treatment the top will bead water, when the beading diminishes (usually at 6 monthly intervals, dependent upon climate / use) it's an indication that it's time for another treatment.
An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved
05-30-2009, 08:06 AM
#14
Former Vendor
We offer and sell Ragtopp and 303 Convertible care packages as they are considered the best of the best. No wrong choice as both work great. Good luck on new ride !
www.autogeek.net
www.autogeek.net
05-19-2017, 01:38 AM
#15
3rd Gear
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sun damage
my convertible car has been sitting in my driveway (not running) for almost a year now. and i am very concerned about the top getting sun damaged. is there anything that i can put on it to prevent the convertible top from sun damage?
06-02-2017, 08:48 PM
#17
Race Director
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I originally posted this here about 10 years ago (!!), and have been doing it this way since I had my '04. I also shared this with other people, and it still works for me:
I am NOT representing that I am an expert. In fact, I'm anything but an expert. I've had Corvettes with Shale and Gray tops, and haven't had any problems with this approach:
1. Cleaning:
- If I'm taking care of the roof, as part of an overall car cleaning marathon, I do it first - before taking care of wheels,tires, paint or windows.
- If there are any strange spots, I attack them with Goof Off.
- Soak the top very thoroughly with the garden hose, then get out the RaggTopp cleaner and a big beefy sponge.
- I know some people use a brush, but I am very averse to any kind of rubbing or scrubbing, which can increase the odds of lifting the fibers of the material, or ripping the stitching. I believe the fibers are most susceptible to damage when they are soaked with water.
- Spray the top liberally with the cleaner, and work it in by squeezing the sponge (i.e. not by rubbing), making it nice and sudsy.
- Rinse everything down with the hose. If it's been a while, if I'm in a good mood, or if it looks like it needs it, I do another wash cycle. I've been told that if you can't get the cleaner to make a lot of suds, that means the material is still dirty.
- After I'm done washing, and thoroughly rinsing, I get out the shop vac, and go over it several times, trying to get out as much moisture as I possibly can. You'd be surprised at how much water ends up in your vac.
- Then, with the top up at all times, I put the car in the garage. I cover the top with an old sheet, to prevent any dusk or dirt that might be floating in the air to settle on it. Then, I "step away from the car." I come back in the next day or two, depending on the air temperature, to be sure the material had enough time to thoroughly dry out.
2. Treatment:
- The key here is to mask everything that shouldn't be treated. I don't know what the stuff will do to paint, or glass, but I'm not anxious to find out.
- First, I mask the window with several layers of newspaper, and blue masking tape.
- Then, I cover the car with two (2) of the cheapest disposable plastic drop cloths I can find - one for the front of the car, one for the back.
- As I learned from my old car model spray painting days, shake well and often, and keep the nozzle a good 12 to 14 inches away from the fabric. I spray well above the fabric, and sort of let a cloud of spray settle on the roof (I probably waste a lot of stuff). For the first coat, I work from the front of the car toward the back.
- After the first coat, resist any temptation to go over a spot you missed, and let it sit for at least a half hour.
- RaggTopp recommends two or three coats of treatment. I generally do two. For the second coat, I go from left to right across the roof (at a 90 degree angle to the first layer). That should ensure the whole thing is covered.
- After letting everything sit for a half hour or so, toss the drop cloths, and the window masking, and you're good to go.
1. Cleaning:
- If I'm taking care of the roof, as part of an overall car cleaning marathon, I do it first - before taking care of wheels,tires, paint or windows.
- If there are any strange spots, I attack them with Goof Off.
- Soak the top very thoroughly with the garden hose, then get out the RaggTopp cleaner and a big beefy sponge.
- I know some people use a brush, but I am very averse to any kind of rubbing or scrubbing, which can increase the odds of lifting the fibers of the material, or ripping the stitching. I believe the fibers are most susceptible to damage when they are soaked with water.
- Spray the top liberally with the cleaner, and work it in by squeezing the sponge (i.e. not by rubbing), making it nice and sudsy.
- Rinse everything down with the hose. If it's been a while, if I'm in a good mood, or if it looks like it needs it, I do another wash cycle. I've been told that if you can't get the cleaner to make a lot of suds, that means the material is still dirty.
- After I'm done washing, and thoroughly rinsing, I get out the shop vac, and go over it several times, trying to get out as much moisture as I possibly can. You'd be surprised at how much water ends up in your vac.
- Then, with the top up at all times, I put the car in the garage. I cover the top with an old sheet, to prevent any dusk or dirt that might be floating in the air to settle on it. Then, I "step away from the car." I come back in the next day or two, depending on the air temperature, to be sure the material had enough time to thoroughly dry out.
2. Treatment:
- The key here is to mask everything that shouldn't be treated. I don't know what the stuff will do to paint, or glass, but I'm not anxious to find out.
- First, I mask the window with several layers of newspaper, and blue masking tape.
- Then, I cover the car with two (2) of the cheapest disposable plastic drop cloths I can find - one for the front of the car, one for the back.
For the front: I open the roof latch, and raise only the front section of the roof. With the windows up, drape the cloth over the windshield and each window, pulling the drop cloth as far to the rear of the car as possible. Then I close the roof over it.
For the rear: I raise only the back end of the roof, drape the drop cloth over the waterfall, pull it as far to the front of the car as possible, and close the roof over it.
Then the fun begins.For the rear: I raise only the back end of the roof, drape the drop cloth over the waterfall, pull it as far to the front of the car as possible, and close the roof over it.
- As I learned from my old car model spray painting days, shake well and often, and keep the nozzle a good 12 to 14 inches away from the fabric. I spray well above the fabric, and sort of let a cloud of spray settle on the roof (I probably waste a lot of stuff). For the first coat, I work from the front of the car toward the back.
- After the first coat, resist any temptation to go over a spot you missed, and let it sit for at least a half hour.
- RaggTopp recommends two or three coats of treatment. I generally do two. For the second coat, I go from left to right across the roof (at a 90 degree angle to the first layer). That should ensure the whole thing is covered.
- After letting everything sit for a half hour or so, toss the drop cloths, and the window masking, and you're good to go.
08-12-2018, 02:36 PM
#18
Vert top
I have a 1993 ruby red 40th anniversary edition. It has been garage kept with a car cover since new. Never been driven in the rain with 41,000 miles on it. Do I need to clean it or just use protectant?
