rudolph schenker

I have been procrastinating this 'littlle' project for some time. As I have read other accounts and seen pics I prepared for the worse!


Some carnage from the removal. I took a sawzall to the #4 and#5 mounts.


















One doesn't see this view very often...






New mounts (rubber) ready to go...



I did one sid at a time using a floor jack and a 2x6 for support when lifting the body. Here are some finished pics...









Not a very fun job, but it was time to replace those mounts as one can see. I'm glad it's over!!

CA-Legal-Vette

Looks great Mark. Nice job.

I've been putting off the same job for years. Don't know if the sawzall will do it. May need dynamite.

Artsvette73

Good for another 30 plus years

Glassbowtie77

I've been putting off doing mine also. I have to admit I'm a little aprehensive about doing it. Don't want to start something that I may not be able to finish. I've putting that off and rebuilding my trailing arms also.

69427

I first put the rubber mounts in my '69 in 1975. I just replaced them again this week. They could have gone a few more years, but I had the car apart anyway.

spikebot 81

Well I got real lucky. Just finished all 8 mounts on saturday. No rust issues no broken bolts or frozen cage nuts. 6 hours start to finish

OzzyTom

So, is this a body off job....
or can you get to those mounts without lifting the body right off?


Rudi.... Has your ride height changed with the new mounts?
what about issues with panel alignments/gaps ....
I've heard horror stories of misaligning doors, bonnet and body panels due to different settling on the mounts ????

I keep putting my mount replacement off.....

rudolph schenker

I have not measured the ride height. I watched the new rubber mounts compress as I tightened the bolts, just by eye-balling it they appeared to about the same height as the old ones I removed. I also kept track of how many shims were at each mount and replaced them.

I kept the #2 and #3 mounts in (but loose) and while doing the passenger side and the #6 and #7 in while doing the driver side to help with alignment. I only raised each side approx. 4 inches (doing one side at a time). As far as I can tell everything is the same (no uneven gaps etc).

scottyp99

Wow, same boat, I kinda need to do mine, and I guess it's best to do it before you REALLY need to do it, if ya know what I mean. Musta been tough fighting off the "while-I'm-at-it's" with that kinda job.


Scott

ED69ray

that happened to me - opened up a real Pandora's box on my '69. I had some rust issues to begin with - thats why the body was pulled to begin with.

both left and right #3 mounts were rotten - both at the frame and on the body. As a result both lower door rails (#2 and #3 mounts) are being replaced.

Grumpy 427

I just ordered a set this week.I will wait till i get the motor out of the car, i have the entire drive train out anyway so this will make life a bit easier i hope?

20mercury

Good job, I need to do the same on 76. I also need to paint the frame, which it looks like you might could almost scrape a little and dab rust converter in the space on top.

It would be great if you could post some directions on how you did this. For example do you need to remove the front and rear bumper (assume this is an 82 from your profile)? and where & how do you jack to avoid cracking the fiberglass.

One other question, my fuel line is spliced where it rusted out above gusset in front of RR tire. Do you think you could install this fuel line at the same time?

Much thanks.

rudolph schenker

Good questions. Yes, I did this on my 82.

Things I removed or loosened include
1. Front bumper, pay attention to where the front brace bolts to the body at the nose.










2. Unbolted the steering box from the frame. Left it coupled to the steering column.
3. Unbolted the master cylinder from the vacuum assist and supported it.
4. Removed the grounding strap by the #1 mount.
5. Unplugged the brake sensor from the brake line distribution block.
6. Removed the side trim on both sides. This is where I placed the 2x6 along the entire length for jacking.






With my car it was not necessary to remove the rear bumper.

I only jacked the body up 4 inches and did one side at a time. As you can see from the pics I used a little POR 15 on the mounts and tops of the frame rails (no pics of finished frame rails).


Cleaned up the headlight sub-assemblies and front brace while I was there.




















Hope this helps a little!!

ED69ray

should not have to worry about any height differences with a chrome bumper car - the '68-'72 body mounts are solid - no rubber. I just ordered a kit for my '69 model

hugie82

Nice Detail Rudolf!!! I wish you did that last fall. I searched every website for picks and info on are late model C3s with no luck. Everyone was doing an early 70s so I paid a guy to do mine for about $500. I wish I did do it so I could have touch up a lot of stuff like you. This thread should be a sticky or in a DYI site. Great Job

rudolph schenker

Thanks! It has been satisfying to clean up that front end! I'm going to paint it in a month since I have most of it apart now.

20mercury

Much, Much thanks this is super info and a super writeup.

Your car looks great!

GTR1999

Very nice job,did you put some never seize on those bolts? Not that you're going to have to replace them for a very LONG time. That's going to be a great cruising car!

Vetteaddiction

This is one of the best threads I've seen in a long time. Awesome job and great pictures! Thanks for going back through with the step by step instructions.

Just have one question - How did you get the body mounts clean before the Por 15? Wire brush?

Thanks again, Chris

spedaleden

Mark,

Very nice work. How many swear words where used?

A couple of bolts loosened and some wire harnesses and fuel lines disconnected and you could of taken the body off. On a scale of 1 to 10 what was difficulty? From your pics your car doesn't look like it needs paint, I guess it is the mystery of pictures.

Again nice work