kkapchuk

is there a step by step procedure that i can use to be able to remove the oil pan off of my 1997 corvette? ive looked and searched but haven't found a manual if you will on the procedure! thank you all so much for responses

ajg1915

Not an easy job. You'll have to hold the motor up and remove the cradle to access the oil pan. After that it's a piece of cake.

clif

I would like to see a step-by-step as well. I have a 99 with the bat-wing oil pan. I want to pull the oil pan and replace my rod bolts to ARP botls for better strength.

ajg1915

I changed the rod bolts on my bro's enginge to the Katech rod bolts, however, I pulled the motor.

C5Joe559

I have a leak coming from my oil pan, and was told I need to replace the gasket. How many labor hours should I expect to pay for such a job? Thanks!

ajg1915

PIA job, especially if you got headers. I'm guessing at least 6 hours if not more.

Bill Dearborn

There are two oil pan gaskets. One for the upper pan and one for the lower pan which is attached to the upper pan. Which one is leaking? Here are the instructions from the Service Manual:

Oil Pan Replacement

Removal Procedure

1. 
   
   
   Remove the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement in Front Suspension.
2. Remove the oil pan drain plug and allow the oil to drain.
3. Re-install the engine oil drain plug until snug.
   Important
   
   It is not necessary to remove the oil pan (lower) in order to remove the oil pan.
   
   
4. If oil pan and/or gasket removal or replacement is NOT required proceed to step 10. If the oil pan (lower) gasket replacement is required proceed to the next step.
   
   
5. If replacement of the oil pan (lower) gasket is needed, perform the following:
6. Remove the oil pan (lower) bolt (1-15).
   
   
   
7. Separate the oil pan (lower) (3) from the oil pan (1).
8. Remove the oil pan (lower) gasket (2).
9. Clean the oil pan (lower) gasket surface. For the oil pan (lower) installation, refer to step 13 in the installation procedure.
   
   
10. Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.
11. Remove the left transmission cover bolt and cover.
    
    
12. Remove the engine oil filter and allow the oil to drain.
13. Re-install the engine oil filter until snug.
    
    
14. Remove the automatic transmission fluid cooler line clamp bolt at the right transmission cover, if equipped.
    
    
15. Remove the automatic transmission fluid cooler line clamp bolt at the oil pan, if equipped.
    
    
16. Remove the right transmission cover bolt and cover.
    
    
17. Remove the bottom 2 flywheel housing-to-oil pan bolts.
    
    
18. Disconnect the engine oil level sensor electrical connector (2).
    
    
19. Disconnect the engine oil temperature sensor (3) electrical connector.
    
    
20. Remove the oil pan bolts.
    Important
    
    The original oil pan gasket is retained and aligned to the oil pan by rivets. When installing a new gasket, it is not necessary to install new oil pan gasket rivets.
    DO NOT reuse the oil pan gasket. When installing the oil pan, install a NEW oil pan gasket.
    Removal of the oil pan (lower) will not provide access to the crankshaft oil deflector, crankshaft, or other internal engine components.
    
    
21. Lower the oil pan, rotate the pan until it can be removed from around the oil pump screen.
22. Remove the engine oil filter.
23. Clean and inspect the engine oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection in Engine Mechanical-5.7L Unit Repair.

Installation Procedure



Important

All gasket surfaces should be free of oil or other foreign material during assembly.
The alignment of the structural oil pan is critical. The rear bolt hole locations of the oil pan provide mounting points for the flywheel housing cover. To ensure the rigidity of the powertrain and correct transmission alignment, it is important that the rear of the block and the rear of the oil pan are flush or even. The rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block .
Do NOT reuse the oil pan gasket.
It is not necessary to rivet the NEW gasket to the oil pan.

1. 
   
   
   Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) bead of sealant GM U.S. P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 in) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.
   
   
2. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) bead of sealant GM U.S. P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 in) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the rear cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.
   
   
   Important
   
   Be sure to align the oil gallery passages in the oil pan and engine block properly with the oil pan gasket.
   
   
3. 
   
   Pre-assemble the oil pan gasket to the pan.
   1. Install the gasket onto the oil pan.
   2. Install the oil pan bolts to the pan and through the gasket.
   3. Install the oil pan, gasket and bolts to the engine block.
   4. Tighten the oil pan bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
   
   
4. Install the 2 bottom flywheel housing bolts to position the oil pan correctly.
   Notice
   
   Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
   
   
5. 
   
   Tighten the 2 bottom flywheel housing bolts until snug. Do not overtighten. Tighten
   1. Tighten the oil pan bolt and oil pan-to-front cover bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
   2. Tighten the oil pan-to-rear cover bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
   3. Tighten the flywheel housing bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
   
   
6. Connect the engine oil temperature sensor (3) electrical connector.
   
   
7. Connect the engine oil level sensor electrical connector (2).
   
   
8. Install the right transmission cover and bolt. Tighten Tighten the right transmission cover bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
   
   
   
9. Install the automatic transmission fluid cooler line clamp bolt-at-the oil pan, if equipped. Tighten Tighten the automatic transmission fluid cooler line clamp bolt-at-the oil pan to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
   
   
   
10. Install the automatic transmission fluid cooler line clamp bolt-at-right transmission cover, if equipped. Tighten Tighten the automatic transmission fluid cooler line bolt-at-right transmission cover to 2.5 N·m (22 lb in).
    
    
    
11. Install the left transmission cover and bolt. Tighten Tighten the left transmission cover bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
    
12. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.
    
    
13. Install the oil pan (lower) (3) and gasket (2) to the oil pan (1).
14. Install the oil pan bolts (4).
    
    
15. Tighten the oil pan (lower) bolts (1-15) in a crossing pattern, alternating from side-to-side. Tighten Tighten the oil pan (lower) bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
    
    
    
16. Install a NEW engine oil filter. Tighten Tighten the engine oil filter to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
    
17. Install the oil pan drain plug. Tighten Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
    
18. Install the front suspension crossmember to the vehicle. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement in Front Suspension.
19. Fill the crankcase with the proper quantity and grade of engine oil. Refer to Capacities - Approximate Fluid and Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations in Maintenance and Lubrication.
20. Check the transmission fluid, add if necessary.
21. Run the engine and check for leaks.

Removing the front crossmember is a more complicated job and requires special tools or some way to support the engine in the car.


Bill

C5Joe559

I got quoted $50 for labor. I'll be sure to keep this thread away from his sight...lol. I'm in no way a mechanic, but it just appears to be leaking from the the lower oil pan. I didn't even know there was an "upper" oil pan.

ajg1915

I think the 2000 and older models did not have two parts. My Bro's 99 was the single piece unit and you needed to drop cross-member.

C5Joe559

How much does the gasket normally go for? I couldn't find it anywhere on the web, but wanted a rough estimate. I'll be ordering it on Monday. Oh, is this a dealer only part?

OhioC5

oil pan gasket, corvette - 5.7l - 5.7L 97-00 $30.26
Link:
http://www.gmpartshouseusa.com/partl...&siteid=214638

Your welcome Gene

GMpartshouse.com If you got quoted 50.00 labor who cares how much the gasket is,

PS.
I would be scared of the guy charging $50.00 labor

Rick Perkins

Mine was leaking too. It was $40.00 for the part. $500.00 for the labor and a full day at the shop.

wildbadbill

well,I've never done it before ,but didn't feel like dropping the whole front cradle to get to the damn oil pan.I only had a small drip every15-20 sec so I got some of that "majic" oil gasket sealer from Auto Zone-no more leak after 700 miles.... works for me

C5Joe559

I just might try that out. Is that exactly what it's called? Thanks!

wildbadbill

don't remember the name,but it's an oil additive -they have several on the shelf and I got the most expensive one and damped that ****...

Yags

I'm just an old wrench in a New Tool box. But anyone that would charge $50 labor for a oil pan leak is named Billy Bob or Eugene Smells and straight out of the hills or valleys. I'm truly not sure what the Motors Manual calls for as hours required, but just looking at the issue is a hour -$125.00. And my rate is cheap for the area !!! Normally I can get a good idea of a labor rate to charge from the internet, but this is one of those things I can't find a good price. Worsted is, it's my car - for insurance. It's going to be a bitch, no matter what - just got to do what I have to do. Any ideas ?? I'm looking at 16 to 20hrs labor. Realistically am I wrong ??

hgoodwiniii

I did the lower on my 01 C5 a few years ago; I was able to do it without removing the entire oil pan so it was not so bad of a job. So far, so good on the leak.