Centric C6 Z51 Rotors vs. NAPA/Raybestos/DuraStop C5 Rotors for HPDE's
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Centric C6 Z51 Rotors vs. NAPA/Raybestos/DuraStop C5 Rotors for HPDE's
Looking at the RockAuto website, they show a DIFFERENT selection of rotor brands and models for almost EVERY year-model of C6 and C5. I believe that all C5, C5/Z06 & base C6 models can use the same rotors, so that's just confusing...
Anyway, they list Centric rotors specific to some MY Z51 model C6 Corvettes. These are shown as "Vented" - not drilled or slotted, and cost a little more per complete set (~ $200 total) then the typical 'cheapie' C5 rotors talked about so much for HPDE's. They also carry Centrics for the standard C6/C5-sizes.
I am thinking about giving the Centrics a try, to be used exclusively for HPDE's with a dedicated set of track pads (probably Wilwood H's). They 'look' to be a slightly better quality item on the website, and since they are the right size for my stock Z51 brake setup, I could avoid having to buy (and constantly swap out) the base-model brackets required to install the cheapie rotors onto my Z51 coupe.
SO -
Anyway, they list Centric rotors specific to some MY Z51 model C6 Corvettes. These are shown as "Vented" - not drilled or slotted, and cost a little more per complete set (~ $200 total) then the typical 'cheapie' C5 rotors talked about so much for HPDE's. They also carry Centrics for the standard C6/C5-sizes.
I am thinking about giving the Centrics a try, to be used exclusively for HPDE's with a dedicated set of track pads (probably Wilwood H's). They 'look' to be a slightly better quality item on the website, and since they are the right size for my stock Z51 brake setup, I could avoid having to buy (and constantly swap out) the base-model brackets required to install the cheapie rotors onto my Z51 coupe.
SO -
- Does anyone have any experience with the Centrics, enough to say whether they are good quality rotors?
- Does it make more sense to get these Z51-sized rotors and forgo the usual bracket swaps, or just stick with the tried-and-true formula of the ultra-cheapie C5 rotors and use the associated brackets?
Last edited by EvilBoffin; 03-27-2008 at 11:08 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
I've been buying Centric rotors for awhile now. I believe they last a little longer. With black centers that don't rust and a little longer life, I think there worth the price difference. Call Jeff at ProParts 818 888-8904. They sell them. He could tell you more about them. Plus they help support my racing.
Steve
Steve
#4
Race Director
I've been using the C5 front Centric rotors from Race Pages, they have free shipping. They work very well for me.
http://www.racepages.com/products/?N...67258+2253+837
http://www.racepages.com/products/?N...67258+2253+837
#6
Did you ever try them out? How'd they work?
Can you provide the Rockauto part numbers?
Also, are these them?
http://www.propartsusa.com/index.php...3097_3182_3206
(first two items)
Thanks!
Can you provide the Rockauto part numbers?
Also, are these them?
http://www.propartsusa.com/index.php...3097_3182_3206
(first two items)
Thanks!
#7
Safety Car
Since you have to remove the bracket to install the new rotor it's really no extra work to swap the bracket, especially if you pick up extra hardware with the brackets. It's also a good time to lube the slide pin.
#8
Did you ever try them out? How'd they work?
Can you provide the Rockauto part numbers?
Also, are these them?
http://www.propartsusa.com/index.php...3097_3182_3206
(first two items)
Thanks!
Can you provide the Rockauto part numbers?
Also, are these them?
http://www.propartsusa.com/index.php...3097_3182_3206
(first two items)
Thanks!
Sorry, the 06-08 Z51 rotors, we only offer centric premium rotors which are drilled like the OEM.
#9
#11
Those are part numbers for the RAYBESTOS rotors (in base C6 sizes?). The topic of this thread is about the Centric C6 Z51 rotors as alternatives to NAPA/Raybestos/DuraStop base sized rotors.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
#12
Safety Car
How to describe, how to describe, ... you know the little bolt you pull to change your brake pads? The one that's a bit of a pain because it goes into the female side in the caliper and that side spins? The thing that spins is the slider pin. You can pull it out of the caliper and there's a 99% chance it could use some lube, especially if you've been tracking the car and haven't been lubing it. Just wipe some lube on it and shove it back in to the caliper. If it's a total mess (ie. all scored up) you can order a new one easy enough from Gene Culley @ www.gmpartshouse.com
Here's a little article about slide-rail vs opposed piston calipers:
http://www.lemd.com/motorsport/previous.cfm?id=32
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Clockworks -
Wish I had CALLED RockAuto instead of depending on the pic on their website to be representative of what I got - it wasn't. They are drilled as you found out, and look exactly like the OEM Z51 rotors.
I got ~3 days HPDE at VIR out of them, exclusively used & bedded in for those track days with Wilwood H pads. That amount of laps does not justify the increase in price over C5 blanks, IMO.
There are no Centric Z51-sized rotors available that are not drilled - sorry. Check out DBA rotors if you're looking for better longevity then OEM C5's. There's also a post on this forum about Brembo offering some slotted Z51-sized rotors now...
Wish I had CALLED RockAuto instead of depending on the pic on their website to be representative of what I got - it wasn't. They are drilled as you found out, and look exactly like the OEM Z51 rotors.
I got ~3 days HPDE at VIR out of them, exclusively used & bedded in for those track days with Wilwood H pads. That amount of laps does not justify the increase in price over C5 blanks, IMO.
There are no Centric Z51-sized rotors available that are not drilled - sorry. Check out DBA rotors if you're looking for better longevity then OEM C5's. There's also a post on this forum about Brembo offering some slotted Z51-sized rotors now...
#15
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Up in front.... At the finish line.....
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Whenever you order from Rock auto, rotorwise, just get the cheapest ones they advertise for you car. Rotors are wearable, 3 days, 5 days, doesn't matter. The get trashed no matter what. On top of that, if you don't want them to snap, cool them down properly. This is the main reason why rotors snap, drilled or not. Cool them down properly and you'll likely never end up with more than heat checking.
Joe
Joe
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Joe-
I DID drive slowly around the paddock at VIR for at least 10 min.s after each session - almost to the point that I jeopardized getting other stuff done between sessions (like getting to the classroom on time, etc.).
I certainly observed a lot of other guys just pulling straight into their pit & killing their motors, but I didn't feel that was good for the brakes OR my new LS3 motor that was running hot straight off the track.
So you say 'cool down properly' - what does that mean exactly? Is the above not good enough? I would do it if I knew how...
I DID drive slowly around the paddock at VIR for at least 10 min.s after each session - almost to the point that I jeopardized getting other stuff done between sessions (like getting to the classroom on time, etc.).
I certainly observed a lot of other guys just pulling straight into their pit & killing their motors, but I didn't feel that was good for the brakes OR my new LS3 motor that was running hot straight off the track.
So you say 'cool down properly' - what does that mean exactly? Is the above not good enough? I would do it if I knew how...
#17
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Up in front.... At the finish line.....
Posts: 892
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
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Joe-
I DID drive slowly around the paddock at VIR for at least 10 min.s after each session - almost to the point that I jeopardized getting other stuff done between sessions (like getting to the classroom on time, etc.).
I certainly observed a lot of other guys just pulling straight into their pit & killing their motors, but I didn't feel that was good for the brakes OR my new LS3 motor that was running hot straight off the track.
So you say 'cool down properly' - what does that mean exactly? Is the above not good enough? I would do it if I knew how...
I DID drive slowly around the paddock at VIR for at least 10 min.s after each session - almost to the point that I jeopardized getting other stuff done between sessions (like getting to the classroom on time, etc.).
I certainly observed a lot of other guys just pulling straight into their pit & killing their motors, but I didn't feel that was good for the brakes OR my new LS3 motor that was running hot straight off the track.
So you say 'cool down properly' - what does that mean exactly? Is the above not good enough? I would do it if I knew how...
Joe
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Joe-
Thanks. That's basically what I thought.
Well, you know HPDE's at VIR - checkered flag is thrown at Oak Tree, then you only have through Hog Pen to cool down. It's not much of a cool down 'lap' at all. So, I've even driven beyond the pits out to the registration building and back. Of course, that isn't at 50MPH...
I agree that there's a lot of frustration dealing with this rotor issue. Looks like most people are still searching for a better solution....
Thanks. That's basically what I thought.
Well, you know HPDE's at VIR - checkered flag is thrown at Oak Tree, then you only have through Hog Pen to cool down. It's not much of a cool down 'lap' at all. So, I've even driven beyond the pits out to the registration building and back. Of course, that isn't at 50MPH...
I agree that there's a lot of frustration dealing with this rotor issue. Looks like most people are still searching for a better solution....