Whats The Best Paint For Frames???
#1
Burning Brakes
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Whats The Best Paint For Frames???
Im almost done with my welding and gusseting project and it time to start thinking about frame paint. First off, I dont believe in POR15 for painting clean bare metal so please lets stay away from that. Powdercoating is out of the budget as well. Im thinking a good epoxy primer followed by a coat or 2 of enamel. Just wondering what is nice and durable for DD duty. I had rustoleum on there before and I didnt like it at all. It was very soft. What do you guys think?
#2
Race Director
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Im almost done with my welding and gusseting project and it time to start thinking about frame paint. First off, I dont believe in POR15 for painting clean bare metal so please lets stay away from that. Powdercoating is out of the budget as well. Im thinking a good epoxy primer followed by a coat or 2 of enamel. Just wondering what is nice and durable for DD duty. I had rustoleum on there before and I didnt like it at all. It was very soft. What do you guys think?
#7
Melting Slicks
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I Sandblasted my frame, Sprayed with 2 coats PPG DP90 Epoxy(Black) followed with 2 coats semi gloss black enamel. After all was dry I oil sprayed inside the frame rails and crossmembers with Rustcheck
My total cost was about $320.cdn
My total cost was about $320.cdn
Last edited by hwcoop; 05-27-2007 at 12:46 PM.
#9
Instructor
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How I did it.
I used POR-15 as a a rust blocker and then shot it with 2 coats of rustoleum from good old rattlecans. I can hear all the people out there crying "why oh why did you use spray paint?". Well, the reasons follow.
1. It's just a frame, not gonna be seen a lot.
2. It's easy.
3. The POR-15 is the real deal and is what will keep the parts from rusting.
You say you don't believe in POR-15 over bare metal. I used both the "Marine Clean" and then "Metal Ready" just like the POR-15 guys said to do and the metal is no longer bare and bright when you get done with those. Not saying you're wrong, just that I'd bet that some of the people who had problems with POR-15 sticking to the metal didn't follow the instructions that came with it.
A warning on POR-15 though, it's a lot of work. Painting with a brush gets old fast. I spent 2 weeks of after work time painting the frame and parts with POR-15 and a bunch of brushes. The spray cans took a few hours over the long weekend.
Pics in this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1593428
-Trevor
1. It's just a frame, not gonna be seen a lot.
2. It's easy.
3. The POR-15 is the real deal and is what will keep the parts from rusting.
You say you don't believe in POR-15 over bare metal. I used both the "Marine Clean" and then "Metal Ready" just like the POR-15 guys said to do and the metal is no longer bare and bright when you get done with those. Not saying you're wrong, just that I'd bet that some of the people who had problems with POR-15 sticking to the metal didn't follow the instructions that came with it.
A warning on POR-15 though, it's a lot of work. Painting with a brush gets old fast. I spent 2 weeks of after work time painting the frame and parts with POR-15 and a bunch of brushes. The spray cans took a few hours over the long weekend.
Pics in this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1593428
-Trevor
#10
My 02 acid etch primer for bare metal, DP epoxy primer, top coat with what you want!! This is my treatment for parts I dont want to paint again. I have had grind some spots for ground wires, I had some electrical issuse that was related to ground or lack there of due the paint!
#11
Racer
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#12
Drifting
I have used both POR-15 on one frame and PPG DP40 on a different frames and both are very good. If you want a high gloss finish use POR, if semi gloss is your choice use the PPG.
I have used the PPG on many projects and found this through experimentation. When you mix with the recommended amount of catalyst it produces a flat look that I didn't like. Flat paint does not clean as well as a semi gloss and that turned me off. I discovered the more catalyst you add the higher the sheen produced. Measure amounts of catalyst exactly over several mixes, or the area will take on several different sheens. The catalyst can be bought seperately, so you don't need to be concerned about running out. A 50/50 mix is close to my liking, but a little experimenting might surprise you. With the right sheen, I don't feel the need to top coat. BTW...the PPG can be brushed and look good, just use a good quality brush.
I have used the PPG on many projects and found this through experimentation. When you mix with the recommended amount of catalyst it produces a flat look that I didn't like. Flat paint does not clean as well as a semi gloss and that turned me off. I discovered the more catalyst you add the higher the sheen produced. Measure amounts of catalyst exactly over several mixes, or the area will take on several different sheens. The catalyst can be bought seperately, so you don't need to be concerned about running out. A 50/50 mix is close to my liking, but a little experimenting might surprise you. With the right sheen, I don't feel the need to top coat. BTW...the PPG can be brushed and look good, just use a good quality brush.
#13
I used owatrol on the first 2 layers. And then a mix of 50/50 owatrol and arcanol on the 2 next ones. Used a tectyl pump, and sprayed the inside of the frame w/ owatrol.
#14
Le Mans Master
I stripped mine to bare metal and used POR system ... it is rust PREVENTIVE ... paint is not.
Top coated the silver POR with Krylon semi flat black.
Top coated the silver POR with Krylon semi flat black.
#16
Safety Car
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Rick B.
#17
Racer
I'm going to try some stuff called "Chassis Saver." The paint store had a demo piece of sheet metal treated with this paint; I could bend it, twist, pound w/hammer and it would not peel or chip.
#18
Everyone has their own recipe for painting frames and some guys swear by POR 15 which is fine for them but I kind of agree with hwcoop. I use DP90 (black-now it is DPLF90) for adhesion but it is not a finish paint so I top coat it with an enamel. I use my PPG flatener and experiment till I get a satin sheen. Before I do that though I use a 3M Body shootz gun with a rubber hose clamped on the end so I can spray into the inner sections of the frame. The last time I bought a gallon of black Rust Oleum from Home Depot for $25 and mixed it with acetone and try to paint as much inside the frame as possible with the body shootz gun and some oozed out. I then scraped and sanded that and then put on my finish coat of the satin enamel. It will probably last long after I'm gone-I hope-Jim
#19
Drifting
frame paint
dupont etching primer, black imron....