re:ZR-1 Snow Beast and success from Houston
01-24-2007, 01:03 AM
#1
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
re:ZR-1 Snow Beast and success from Houston
Well folks can you see my smile?
What a great car. Drove her all the way from Houston. It was a little dodgy last night as we drove on I-10 and did approx 60 miles in three hours on one strech due to heavy snow!! Had to stay over in Van Horn Texas and was lucky to get a room. Woke up and there was 3 foot of snow ontop of the car. Started up with no hesitations and had her warmed up as we had to wait until 2pm the next day (Today) for the snow to clear. I wish I brought my camera you cant make this **** up!! Now I know why you guys park em in the winter back east and drive something else. ZR-1s and hard driving snow plain suck!!!!! Traction what traction?
SO now thats home how do I diagnose the pesty LPTWS sensor in other words figure which is tire is the culprit at high speeds only
and the Ride Service light. Any clues with that one? Bad sensor? What a great ride. Goldcylon
What a great car. Drove her all the way from Houston. It was a little dodgy last night as we drove on I-10 and did approx 60 miles in three hours on one strech due to heavy snow!! Had to stay over in Van Horn Texas and was lucky to get a room. Woke up and there was 3 foot of snow ontop of the car. Started up with no hesitations and had her warmed up as we had to wait until 2pm the next day (Today) for the snow to clear. I wish I brought my camera you cant make this **** up!! Now I know why you guys park em in the winter back east and drive something else. ZR-1s and hard driving snow plain suck!!!!! Traction what traction?
SO now thats home how do I diagnose the pesty LPTWS sensor in other words figure which is tire is the culprit at high speeds only
and the Ride Service light. Any clues with that one? Bad sensor? What a great ride. Goldcylon
Last edited by Goldcylon; 01-24-2007 at 07:50 PM.
01-24-2007, 03:38 AM
#2
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Congrats on the car and the nice drive home.
LTPWS, more than likely a battery failure in the sensor itself. Try driving it a bit more. If it's a early car you can remove all of them with out having the light come on.
SRC, take a paperclip and jump the A-C terminals on the ALDL port and see what code comes up.
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
LTPWS, more than likely a battery failure in the sensor itself. Try driving it a bit more. If it's a early car you can remove all of them with out having the light come on.
SRC, take a paperclip and jump the A-C terminals on the ALDL port and see what code comes up.
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
01-24-2007, 07:30 AM
#3
Elite Torch Red Member
I ttook me 8 hours to go 41 miles in Virginia, right before the snow was freezing rain and there was a 127 car pileup further north.
I was on top of at least 3" of ice which was below 6" of snow.
Absolutely no traction at all.
By the time I got home, my red car was white from all the crud.
I was on top of at least 3" of ice which was below 6" of snow.
Absolutely no traction at all.
By the time I got home, my red car was white from all the crud.
01-24-2007, 08:38 AM
#5
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Member Since: Oct 2001
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I've been caught in 6" of snow as well.......not fun! About the LPTWS; I think there are a couple of codes that can trigger, if the car is started, and not moved. Something about the system not being able to set properly while not moving. LPTWS might be one of codes that trigger this way, and you said you were stuck for a while at the hotel. Also it can be set by another car with LPTWS on it as well. If I were to get this, I would clear the codes first, and see if they come back. Clear by unhooking the battery. It could be as simple as this. I have had it before, but not frequently, so I have not pulled the sensors off. Congrats on the car!
01-24-2007, 09:36 AM
#6
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hmmmmm
I think my ZR1 would "cringe" @ being out in the wet, and cry like a baby if i let him out in the snow....
I have an old man car for the bad weather with FRONT wheel drive!
As far as LTPWS... I'm going to disable mine to get that light off(missing one sensor), because I don't do any "track" runs. Some guys might differ, but I don't see it helping me on my Sunday Runs.....
Has anyone disabled their LTPWS? If so, how easy is it?
Thanks
David
94 #150
ps hey Cylon... What year Z did you get? Mods? AND what are you doing to do to it!
I think my ZR1 would "cringe" @ being out in the wet, and cry like a baby if i let him out in the snow....
I have an old man car for the bad weather with FRONT wheel drive!As far as LTPWS... I'm going to disable mine to get that light off(missing one sensor), because I don't do any "track" runs. Some guys might differ, but I don't see it helping me on my Sunday Runs.....
Has anyone disabled their LTPWS? If so, how easy is it?
Thanks
David
94 #150
ps hey Cylon... What year Z did you get? Mods? AND what are you doing to do to it!
01-24-2007, 07:36 PM
#9
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Congrats on the car and the nice drive home.
LTPWS, more than likely a battery failure in the sensor itself. Try driving it a bit more. If it's a early car you can remove all of them with out having the light come on.
SRC, take a paperclip and jump the A-C terminals on the ALDL port and see what code comes up.
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
LTPWS, more than likely a battery failure in the sensor itself. Try driving it a bit more. If it's a early car you can remove all of them with out having the light come on.
SRC, take a paperclip and jump the A-C terminals on the ALDL port and see what code comes up.
12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position
Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock
41 = Selective ride control switch short to voltage
42 = Selective ride control switch open contacts
You can have a code 42 if you leave the switch in between indented positions
43 = selective ride control switch circuit open.
Thanks for the adivce JEFV!! I have no idea where the a and c portion are on the port. Are talking about the OBD port? Does the car have to be powered where do I count the flashes. Sorry for the silly questions I remember reading about this in other posts but this is the first time I would have to do it.
01-24-2007, 07:37 PM
#10
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
I ttook me 8 hours to go 41 miles in Virginia, right before the snow was freezing rain and there was a 127 car pileup further north.
I was on top of at least 3" of ice which was below 6" of snow.
Absolutely no traction at all.
By the time I got home, my red car was white from all the crud.
I was on top of at least 3" of ice which was below 6" of snow.
Absolutely no traction at all.
By the time I got home, my red car was white from all the crud.
when I pulled in the driveway. The engine bay will take hours.
01-24-2007, 07:40 PM
#11
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
I've been caught in 6" of snow as well.......not fun! About the LPTWS; I think there are a couple of codes that can trigger, if the car is started, and not moved. Something about the system not being able to set properly while not moving. LPTWS might be one of codes that trigger this way, and you said you were stuck for a while at the hotel. Also it can be set by another car with LPTWS on it as well. If I were to get this, I would clear the codes first, and see if they come back. Clear by unhooking the battery. It could be as simple as this. I have had it before, but not frequently, so I have not pulled the sensors off. Congrats on the car!
01-24-2007, 07:47 PM
#12
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
hmmmmm
I think my ZR1 would "cringe" @ being out in the wet, and cry like a baby if i let him out in the snow.... I have an old man car for the bad weather with FRONT wheel drive!
As far as LTPWS... I'm going to disable mine to get that light off(missing one sensor), because I don't do any "track" runs. Some guys might differ, but I don't see it helping me on my Sunday Runs.....
Has anyone disabled their LTPWS? If so, how easy is it?
Thanks
David
94 #150
ps hey Cylon... What year Z did you get? Mods? AND what are you doing to do to it!
I think my ZR1 would "cringe" @ being out in the wet, and cry like a baby if i let him out in the snow....
I have an old man car for the bad weather with FRONT wheel drive!As far as LTPWS... I'm going to disable mine to get that light off(missing one sensor), because I don't do any "track" runs. Some guys might differ, but I don't see it helping me on my Sunday Runs.....
Has anyone disabled their LTPWS? If so, how easy is it?
Thanks
David
94 #150
ps hey Cylon... What year Z did you get? Mods? AND what are you doing to do to it!
Last edited by Goldcylon; 01-24-2007 at 07:53 PM.
01-24-2007, 07:58 PM
#13
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Member Since: Jan 2003
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Thanks for the adivce JEFV!! I have no idea where the a and c portion are on the port. Are talking about the OBD port? Does the car have to be powered where do I count the flashes. Sorry for the silly questions I remember reading about this in other posts but this is the first time I would have to do it.
Set up like this
F-E-D-C-B-A
G-H-J-K-L-M
01-24-2007, 09:19 PM
#14
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
01-24-2007, 09:24 PM
#15
Drifting
No the car doesn't need to be running...just turn the key to the ON position and the Service Ride Control light on the DIC will start its flashing sequence. With the key OFF...install the shorting wire (paperclip or whatever you are using) and then turn the key to the ON position to read the flashing codes.
01-24-2007, 09:47 PM
#17
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
No the car doesn't need to be running...just turn the key to the ON position and the Service Ride Control light on the DIC will start its flashing sequence. With the key OFF...install the shorting wire (paperclip or whatever you are using) and then turn the key to the ON position to read the flashing codes.
Last edited by Goldcylon; 01-25-2007 at 12:20 AM.
01-24-2007, 09:48 PM
#18
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
http://home.earthlink.net/~goldcylon...res/91rear.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~goldcylon...ngineright.jpg
David heres ones from an earlier post. Its all I have for now
Last edited by Goldcylon; 01-24-2007 at 09:54 PM.
01-25-2007, 12:11 AM
#19
Drifting
Edit: My entire family says..."lose the wing"...even Brutus our Brussels Griffon...
Last edited by guinnessdood; 01-25-2007 at 12:13 AM.
01-25-2007, 12:19 AM
#20
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Ok I will look under the hush panel next thanks for that info
I made the decsion the wing stays but zero other body mods will be applied, The wing is actually mounted to the frame on struts. It makes the car look different but not riced IMHO. I know its not for everyone but I must admit it has grown on me. Since I just joined the ZR-1 registry it will give other members something to talk about
