86 vette with a code 12 and 34
07-10-2006, 09:14 PM
#1
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86 vette with a code 12 and 34
I have seen some of the threads here and some indicate it to be a Map sensor or a Maf sensor. Can anyone tell me what it is and the cost. It seems the Maf is expensive and the Map significantly cheaper.
Car is cutting out after it heats up. Took the codes and got a 12 (nothing) and a 34.
Car is cutting out after it heats up. Took the codes and got a 12 (nothing) and a 34.
07-10-2006, 09:23 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
A code 34 is a MAF sensor signal voltage low.
Code 34 indicates:
ECM has seen low air flow (low voltage) for one second when:
Engine is first started
OR
RPM is above 600
TPS above 6%, the engine has to be running at about 2000 RPM in neutral.
You really need to get a Helms Manual to follow the troubleshooting charts to repair this otherwise it's just throwing parts at it.
Code 34 indicates:
ECM has seen low air flow (low voltage) for one second when:
Engine is first started
OR
RPM is above 600
TPS above 6%, the engine has to be running at about 2000 RPM in neutral.
You really need to get a Helms Manual to follow the troubleshooting charts to repair this otherwise it's just throwing parts at it.
07-10-2006, 09:40 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Code 12 is not a trouble code. It flashed 3 times at the begining and end of the code reading process. It's there to tell you when the test starts and ends. The code(s) you see in between are your troble codes. Code 34 was in between the code 12 flashes, so that is your trouble code.
Code 34 is indeed the MAF sensor circuit. It's the black plastic thing between your throttle body and air filter attached to the accordian air duct. It has a connector on the bottom of it.
Unplug the MAF and start the car.
If the problem goes away with it unplugged, and returns when you plug it back on, it's the MAF sensor that's bad, and it's expensive. Do that first then come back and tell us what you found.
If got the problem with it unplugged, there are other things that need cheking (see link below), but do that test first and them come back.
Code 34 is indeed the MAF sensor circuit. It's the black plastic thing between your throttle body and air filter attached to the accordian air duct. It has a connector on the bottom of it.
Unplug the MAF and start the car.
If the problem goes away with it unplugged, and returns when you plug it back on, it's the MAF sensor that's bad, and it's expensive. Do that first then come back and tell us what you found.
If got the problem with it unplugged, there are other things that need cheking (see link below), but do that test first and them come back.
Last edited by 86PACER; 07-10-2006 at 09:59 PM.
07-10-2006, 09:55 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
07-11-2006, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
Code 12 is not a trouble code. It flashed 3 times at the begining and end of the code reading process. It's there to tell you when the test starts and ends. The code(s) you see in between are your troble codes. Code 34 was in between the code 12 flashes, so that is your trouble code.
Code 34 is indeed the MAF sensor circuit. It's the black plastic thing between your throttle body and air filter attached to the accordian air duct. It has a connector on the bottom of it.
Unplug the MAF and start the car.
If the problem goes away with it unplugged, and returns when you plug it back on, it's the MAF sensor that's bad, and it's expensive. Do that first then come back and tell us what you found.
If got the problem with it unplugged, there are other things that need cheking (see link below), but do that test first and them come back.
Code 34 is indeed the MAF sensor circuit. It's the black plastic thing between your throttle body and air filter attached to the accordian air duct. It has a connector on the bottom of it.
Unplug the MAF and start the car.
If the problem goes away with it unplugged, and returns when you plug it back on, it's the MAF sensor that's bad, and it's expensive. Do that first then come back and tell us what you found.
If got the problem with it unplugged, there are other things that need cheking (see link below), but do that test first and them come back.
07-11-2006, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 86conv
Car does the same thing when unplugged ......cars still stalls when hot
Also checked injectors and got a reading of 17.2..they seem fine
07-11-2006, 05:09 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by 86conv
Also checked injectors and got a reading of 17.2..they seem fine
BTW, ohming the injectors won't tell you anything about leaks or bad spray patterns.
