[Z06] Broken valve spring, Engine probably gone
#1
Melting Slicks
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Broken valve spring, Engine probably gone
My wife borrowed the Z. She was waiting for a light to change when the car started to miss and then immediately died. She was able to restart and limp back home (1/4 mile) with the engine sounding horrible.
The #6 intake valve spring broke, the valve poked two 1/2 inch holes in the piston before it was wedged in the intake port. The cylinder wall has one nasty gouge about half way up along with a few scratches that certainly catch one's finger nail.
The car has 79,000 miles and has been pampered. I get 30,000 miles to a set of F1's. Oil always changed. I (along with many of you, I'm sure) have been giving a good deal of thought, no lusting is a better word, for a LS7 motor. However, the current timimg stinks!
I can get a new LS6 long bolock for $5280 from one of our great Forum vendors. Ok, but I was really hoping I could use such funds toward something a bit more special. Replacing with what I had last week, although a great engine, is kind of a let down.
Chuck
The #6 intake valve spring broke, the valve poked two 1/2 inch holes in the piston before it was wedged in the intake port. The cylinder wall has one nasty gouge about half way up along with a few scratches that certainly catch one's finger nail.
The car has 79,000 miles and has been pampered. I get 30,000 miles to a set of F1's. Oil always changed. I (along with many of you, I'm sure) have been giving a good deal of thought, no lusting is a better word, for a LS7 motor. However, the current timimg stinks!
I can get a new LS6 long bolock for $5280 from one of our great Forum vendors. Ok, but I was really hoping I could use such funds toward something a bit more special. Replacing with what I had last week, although a great engine, is kind of a let down.
Chuck
#2
Race Director
I'd scour the various forums for a worked" or lightly used LS2 or LS6 motor...and if nothing was looking especially attractive?
I'd go for an ls2 motor...
www.ls1tech.com especially helpful as many of the F body guys really know how to get the best bang for the buck.....
Aftermarket Cam in an ls2 might be interesting? Change the valvesprings to dual cranes ...or comp 921 depending on cam choice.
Look at various aftermarket head choices too.
I'd go for an ls2 motor...
www.ls1tech.com especially helpful as many of the F body guys really know how to get the best bang for the buck.....
Aftermarket Cam in an ls2 might be interesting? Change the valvesprings to dual cranes ...or comp 921 depending on cam choice.
Look at various aftermarket head choices too.
#5
I lost the stock turbos on a 1994 Supra I once owned.
Rather than replace them, which would have run $4-5K in parts and labor, I went with an aftermarket single turbo from PowerHouse Racing, also upgrading the exhaust and adding electronics. Ran about $9K.
This was more expensive but a much better deal in the long run. I turned the car into something special, not just another Supra.
Using this logic, I'd go stroker if I were you. Don't just replace the LS6 or get an LS2. Make an opportunity out of you bad luck.
My $.02.
Rather than replace them, which would have run $4-5K in parts and labor, I went with an aftermarket single turbo from PowerHouse Racing, also upgrading the exhaust and adding electronics. Ran about $9K.
This was more expensive but a much better deal in the long run. I turned the car into something special, not just another Supra.
Using this logic, I'd go stroker if I were you. Don't just replace the LS6 or get an LS2. Make an opportunity out of you bad luck.
My $.02.
#6
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
My wife borrowed the Z. She was waiting for a light to change when the car started to miss and then immediately died. She was able to restart and limp back home (1/4 mile) with the engine sounding horrible.
The #6 intake valve spring broke, the valve poked two 1/2 inch holes in the piston before it was wedged in the intake port. The cylinder wall has one nasty gouge about half way up along with a few scratches that certainly catch one's finger nail.
The car has 79,000 miles and has been pampered. I get 30,000 miles to a set of F1's. Oil always changed. I (along with many of you, I'm sure) have been giving a good deal of thought, no lusting is a better word, for a LS7 motor. However, the current timimg stinks!
I can get a new LS6 long bolock for $5280 from one of our great Forum vendors. Ok, but I was really hoping I could use such funds toward something a bit more special. Replacing with what I had last week, although a great engine, is kind of a let down.
Chuck
The #6 intake valve spring broke, the valve poked two 1/2 inch holes in the piston before it was wedged in the intake port. The cylinder wall has one nasty gouge about half way up along with a few scratches that certainly catch one's finger nail.
The car has 79,000 miles and has been pampered. I get 30,000 miles to a set of F1's. Oil always changed. I (along with many of you, I'm sure) have been giving a good deal of thought, no lusting is a better word, for a LS7 motor. However, the current timimg stinks!
I can get a new LS6 long bolock for $5280 from one of our great Forum vendors. Ok, but I was really hoping I could use such funds toward something a bit more special. Replacing with what I had last week, although a great engine, is kind of a let down.
Chuck
#7
I think even those owners that don't mod their engines and prefer a more stock set up would choose to upgrade to more cubes and possibly some modest modifications to the engine. It is much easier to be conservative when you are not forced to make a choice but when faced with a "have to" situation it would open one up to considering a lot more options.
#9
Melting Slicks
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The engine was bone stock. No reason for the failure except bad metallurgy. The LS2 route, at least the short block is tempting.
I have also been checking out having the block re-sleeved. Darton Sleeves can do this for about $2300 using 4.125" liners. If my crank is ok, this would make about 392 cid. A new forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) making a 427 would be another $2500. Also tempting.
Talking to others, the feedback on the Darton process has not been all positive. No actual experience with failure, but serious doubts over how good it really is. MTI and ATI use it and give a 2 year warranty with their installations so I thought it would be pretty good. The design of the sleeves and the interlocking process seems sound to me.
If I can at least build a strong block that I won't have to remove again would be great. A machinist here in the Bay area thinks he can repair my head. He owes me a few lunches. If he can, this would save me some bucks allowing me to change to better heads later without the need to pull the motor.
It may not make much sense to most people, but to me "427 and Corvette" go together. I need to be careful about this feeling getting hold of my wallet.
Thanks for all your posts. It is appreciated!
Chuck
I have also been checking out having the block re-sleeved. Darton Sleeves can do this for about $2300 using 4.125" liners. If my crank is ok, this would make about 392 cid. A new forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) making a 427 would be another $2500. Also tempting.
Talking to others, the feedback on the Darton process has not been all positive. No actual experience with failure, but serious doubts over how good it really is. MTI and ATI use it and give a 2 year warranty with their installations so I thought it would be pretty good. The design of the sleeves and the interlocking process seems sound to me.
If I can at least build a strong block that I won't have to remove again would be great. A machinist here in the Bay area thinks he can repair my head. He owes me a few lunches. If he can, this would save me some bucks allowing me to change to better heads later without the need to pull the motor.
It may not make much sense to most people, but to me "427 and Corvette" go together. I need to be careful about this feeling getting hold of my wallet.
Thanks for all your posts. It is appreciated!
Chuck
#10
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CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Dang Chuck... what year is yours? I've read about spring failures like this (stock car easy driving) on multiple '02s... rumor has it there is a bad batch of springs floating around the '02 model year.
If I was in your position I'd look into an LS2 based 402 motor. Look up MikeyB on www.z06vette.com. He as a 402 installed in his white '01Z06. I believe the whole setup cost about $11,000 for all the bells & whistles and install.
If I was in your position I'd look into an LS2 based 402 motor. Look up MikeyB on www.z06vette.com. He as a 402 installed in his white '01Z06. I believe the whole setup cost about $11,000 for all the bells & whistles and install.
#12
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
The engine was bone stock. No reason for the failure except bad metallurgy. The LS2 route, at least the short block is tempting.
I have also been checking out having the block re-sleeved. Darton Sleeves can do this for about $2300 using 4.125" liners. If my crank is ok, this would make about 392 cid. A new forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) making a 427 would be another $2500. Also tempting.
Talking to others, the feedback on the Darton process has not been all positive. No actual experience with failure, but serious doubts over how good it really is. MTI and ATI use it and give a 2 year warranty with their installations so I thought it would be pretty good. The design of the sleeves and the interlocking process seems sound to me.
If I can at least build a strong block that I won't have to remove again would be great. A machinist here in the Bay area thinks he can repair my head. He owes me a few lunches. If he can, this would save me some bucks allowing me to change to better heads later without the need to pull the motor.
It may not make much sense to most people, but to me "427 and Corvette" go together. I need to be careful about this feeling getting hold of my wallet.
Thanks for all your posts. It is appreciated!
Chuck
I have also been checking out having the block re-sleeved. Darton Sleeves can do this for about $2300 using 4.125" liners. If my crank is ok, this would make about 392 cid. A new forged rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) making a 427 would be another $2500. Also tempting.
Talking to others, the feedback on the Darton process has not been all positive. No actual experience with failure, but serious doubts over how good it really is. MTI and ATI use it and give a 2 year warranty with their installations so I thought it would be pretty good. The design of the sleeves and the interlocking process seems sound to me.
If I can at least build a strong block that I won't have to remove again would be great. A machinist here in the Bay area thinks he can repair my head. He owes me a few lunches. If he can, this would save me some bucks allowing me to change to better heads later without the need to pull the motor.
It may not make much sense to most people, but to me "427 and Corvette" go together. I need to be careful about this feeling getting hold of my wallet.
Thanks for all your posts. It is appreciated!
Chuck
#13
Drifting
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C5R block, now your talking. Real sorry about your engine. Based upon your history, mine will blow up tomorrow. I beat on this engine like dog. It was my first Stick and I sucked big time. 70 mph to 2nd gear a bunch of times. Many many atrocities, My engine must be bullet proof. I sincerely believe any other engine would have thrown a rod at a minimun. Warrantee by chance?
#14
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Hey Chuck...how about an update for us on your decisions regarding engine replacement. Having been aware of your decision since we spoke earlier today, I am sure that our fellow forum members would be interested as well.
Like them, I really regret this problem occuring at such an inopportune time for you, but am also excited for the opportunity that it makes available to build a really kickin motor!
Good luck from your next door neighbor and fellow forum member!
Like them, I really regret this problem occuring at such an inopportune time for you, but am also excited for the opportunity that it makes available to build a really kickin motor!
Good luck from your next door neighbor and fellow forum member!
#15
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Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
I can get a new LS6 long bolock for $5280 from one of our great Forum vendors. Ok, but I was really hoping I could use such funds toward something a bit more special. Replacing with what I had last week, although a great engine, is kind of a let down.
Chuck
Chuck
I just read an article in Chevy High Performance magazine called "Stump Puller". They used a 6.0L cast iron block, and also recommend a LS1, or LS6 block to build a 402ci. stroker. 225cc heads with either a 65cc combustion chamber, or 72cc if you have a Stage II Procharger in mind. The cam used was a hydraulic roller 250/246 114lsa .596"/.596", so it would idle well with that lsa. 1.75 ratio Comp roller rockers with 7.45" chromemoly pushrods, slightly longer than stock. Throw a LSX intake on and port your stock throttlebody to 90mm. Power output is 568hp @ 6600rpm and 511lb./ft. @ 5100rpm naturally aspirated. Not outragiously expensive either. I would guess with the procharger, you could make upwards of 800hp with boost not limited, seeing that you would have a forged motor and better all around valvetrain. Good luck with your decision. Hope it all works out well for you.
#16
Melting Slicks
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Thanks for everyone's support. But you may not believe this. I changed one fouled spark plug and added 2 cans of Marvels Mystery Oil additive and she purrs like a kitten.
Chuck
Chuck
#17
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Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
Thanks for everyone's support. But you may not believe this. I changed one fouled spark plug and added 2 cans of Marvels Mystery Oil additive and she purrs like a kitten.
Chuck
Chuck
#19
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Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
A couple dabs of JB Weld.
(It seems a good time for black humor)
(It seems a good time for black humor)
#20
Melting Slicks
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zo6vetteman2003,
Your suggestions are right on the mark regarding the 402 and such.
I ordered a LS2 402 with all forged parts. I will be using an aluminum flywheel with LS7 clutch and pressure plate. The cam my local Vette Shop recommended is a comp cam 228/230 with .591" lifts on 114 separation. I would like to keep the car discreet looking so I will continue to use the LS6 intake and throttle body. I have heard the the fast intake w/ 90mm is rather finicky and really only makes about 10hp more and only at the very top. It was suggested that I smooth my intake and match the ports - this is supposed to give me at least 5-8hp. I can probably live with the difference.
I had planned on waiting until later to do the heads and headers when $$ were a bit more plentiful, BUT..... I just ordered a set of long tube headers with high flow cats. Regarding the heads, I have a set of AFR 225's on their way so I am now in way over my head! It may not be the 427 I really lusted for, but I think that I will be over 400rwhp. Ideally, if I end up making as much as my much lamented '69 L88 clone did with a factory spec motor (486rwhp) I would be very satisfied. I loved the incredible power of the 69, but I also love the civility of the ZO6. Now I may actually be close to having both in one car.
I think I am about 3 weeks away from having it back in my garage. by then I'll have to have the keys to my wife's mini van torn from my hand.
Chuck
Your suggestions are right on the mark regarding the 402 and such.
I ordered a LS2 402 with all forged parts. I will be using an aluminum flywheel with LS7 clutch and pressure plate. The cam my local Vette Shop recommended is a comp cam 228/230 with .591" lifts on 114 separation. I would like to keep the car discreet looking so I will continue to use the LS6 intake and throttle body. I have heard the the fast intake w/ 90mm is rather finicky and really only makes about 10hp more and only at the very top. It was suggested that I smooth my intake and match the ports - this is supposed to give me at least 5-8hp. I can probably live with the difference.
I had planned on waiting until later to do the heads and headers when $$ were a bit more plentiful, BUT..... I just ordered a set of long tube headers with high flow cats. Regarding the heads, I have a set of AFR 225's on their way so I am now in way over my head! It may not be the 427 I really lusted for, but I think that I will be over 400rwhp. Ideally, if I end up making as much as my much lamented '69 L88 clone did with a factory spec motor (486rwhp) I would be very satisfied. I loved the incredible power of the 69, but I also love the civility of the ZO6. Now I may actually be close to having both in one car.
I think I am about 3 weeks away from having it back in my garage. by then I'll have to have the keys to my wife's mini van torn from my hand.
Chuck