scott_fx

I'll try to update this as needed, please submit pics or write ups if you have them to help out other members.

Table of contents:
c5 audio faq

Where can i find out tech. info about bose wiring?
Why are my speakers 'buzzing?
Can I add an ipod or other aux device to my stock head unit?
How do I add a power antenna to my z06?
How do i disassemble my dash board and instrument cluster?
Can I add an aftermarket cd changer to my stock system?
Can I use my oem cd changer with an aftermarket head unit?
I just purchased a cd changer and it's skippy like crazy, what's wrong?
How Can I get better sound while keeping the bose head unit?
What size speakers will fit in the doors if i remove the bose speakers?
Where can I mount the tweeters?
What Size speakers will fit in the rear location?
I added an aftermarket Headunit but it won't turn on, what do i do now?
Where do I mount my xm or gps antenna?
I have a navigation h/u that has to connect to a speed sensor wire, where is it?
Where is the best place to ground my amplifier?
My headlights dim every time there is a loud bass hit, how can i fix that?
What are the big 3 and how do i upgrade them?
How do i mount an amplifier?
How do i run a power wire through the firewall?
How can I add xm to my stock stereo? (post #2)
How can I add a switch to retract my antenna?
How do I get the acc power for my h/u?
Where can I find plans to build my own sub box?

general car audio faq

I have 4 speaker terminals on my sub...what gives?
Do I need rear speakers?
Where can i find more info about general car audio? (http://www.the12volt.com)

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c5 audio faq


Where can i find out tech. info about bose wiring?
bose wiring tips
Why are my speakers 'buzzing'?
Most common cause of this is the little bose emblem on the door has
rattled lose.

Can I add an ipod or other aux device to my stock head unit?
Yes, if you don't have a cd changer you can purchase an ipod interface from companies such as pac-audio (ipod2car). If you have a cd changer and don't want to toss it aside, powerdoc has figured out a cool way to keep the cd changer while integrating an aux input: http://www.pqtsi.com/sedona/vetmp3.pdf

How do I add a power antenna to my z06?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=38&TopicID=1

How do i disassemble my dash board and instrument cluster?
http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=87&TopicID=1


Can I add an aftermarket cd changer to my stock system?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=224&TopicID=1

Can I use my oem cd changer with an aftermarket head unit?
update: a few- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...5&postcount=75

I just purchased a cd changer and it's skippy like crazy, what's wrong?
Oem changers may have been shipped with 'shims' that don't allow the dampening mechanism to function properly. These shims should be little white plastic tabs on the cartridge mechanism, these should just slip out. If you have an aftermarket unit you will have to find the mounting position selector switch. Make sure it is set for the appropriate position (vertical or horizontal)

How Can I get better sound while keeping the bose head unit?
Upgrade speakers
The easiest way to get better sound from the stock head unit is to simply swap out the in door 'twiddlers' with after market 3.5” speakers. You also have the option of swapping out the rear speakers with 5.25” speakers for the frc/z06 and convertables, and a 6.5" speaker for the coupes.

Adding an amplifier
To add a subwoofer or to give your aftermarket speakers more power you will need an aftermarket amplifier. Please note you will not be able to power the stock bose speakers with an aftermarket amplifier. If you are keeping the stock head unit you will need a bose interface (please note: When tapping into the stock wiring, the low frequencies for bass ARE NOT present at the twiddlers. The 8" sub in the doors or behind the h/u must be tapped when adding a sub). A popular model for the c5's are the 'soundgate' adapters or pac-audio interfaces. This will allow you to retain the stock headunit and all of the stock features associated with the head unit such as retained accessory power and automatic volume compensation even the stock speakers if you only wish to only add a subwoofer. The bose interface will give you pre-amp level outputs that you can run to the rca jacks of your amplifier.

What size speakers will fit in the doors if i remove the bose speakers?
You can fit practically any size speaker; short of subwoofers, in the doors of a c5. You will need to purchase or build a mounting plate but you will be able to fit a full 3-way component system in the stock location.

Where can I mount the tweeters?
The three most common places to mount the tweeters for component speaker systems in the c5 would be either in the stock location (between the 6.5” and the 4” if you have a 3 way system), behind the door pulls (you'll notice a flat-ish plastic piece behind the little lever you pull to open the door) or lastly on th surface of the doors themselves. The last is the most intrusive (but maybe the best) and there isn't any easy way to go back to stock, short of replacing the door panels themselves. There have also been reports of people that have tweeters mounted in the corners of the windshield vent on the dash. The best way to figure out what sounds best to you is to take some of that blue tack putty and try out every location.

What Size speakers will fit in the rear location.
You can fit 5.25” speakers in the rear of the c5 frc or vert and 6.5" for the coupe.

I added an aftermarket Headunit but it won't turn on, what do i do now?
When the bose head unit is removed from the wire harness the accessories power lead is disconnected by the pcm. The acc wire is what 'tells' your headunit to turn on so you'll have to tap into some other source for this. The easiest place to tap this lead from is fuse number 22 under the passenger floor board.

Where do I mount my xm or gps antenna?
A popular place to mount the antennas is under the bumper skin right behind one of the taillights. Another place (where i mounted mine) was under the rear fender on the inside of the car. This will require no drilling, just mount with two face tape or hook and loop tape.

I have a navigation h/u that has to connect to a speed sensor wire, where is it?
You will have to tap into the harness on the instrument cluster. You need to find the Green/white (A7-circuit 817) with a tan/white (A6-circuit 33) above it and a black (A8-circuit 150 ) below it..The other green/white (A10-circuit 357) oil temp has a blank and a gray on each side.


Where is the best place to ground my amplifier?
you can ground your amp to a screw/bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame. You can also ground it to the seat bolt or if you have a vert you can mount it to the metal that is under the waterfall.

My headlights dim every time there is a loud bass hit, how can i fix that?
The c5's alternator is very strong and should be able to easily power one or two good sized amplifiers. Some forum members have 2000 watt (rms) systems running strongly off the stock alternator. If you have a mega system then you may need to get a stronger alternator. But chances are this isn't your problem. First thing to check is your ground. Make sure that the area has a clean contacts. Then make sure you have a large enough power and ground wire. If you skimped on this, time to replace it with some heavier gauge. If this isn't the problem then you should consider upgrading the 'big 3' if you haven't already.

What are the big 3 and how do i upgrade them?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=245&TopicID=1

How do I mount an amplifier?
One think you have to worry about when mounting equipment is hitting vital parts like the gas tank. To get around this the easiest way to mount an amplifier or like equipment is to mount a piece of mdf wood to the body of the car (under the oem carpet) with some silicone sealant/caulking. This is a semi-perminant solution that will allow you to remove the piece further down the road if you choose too, while granting you the piece of mind that you will not be drilling into your car. After the silicone has dried you can reinstall the oem carpet and then drill into the newly secured mounting plate.


How do i run a power wire through the firewall? from forum member 'vate'
the power cable will slide right alongside the main harness where it passes through the firewall.

First remove the battery. You will see a bundle of wires going through a flexible rubber grommet in the firewall.

Remove the electrical tape around these wires.

Your power cable should be plenty stiff to push the wire through, provided you spray it with some WD-40 first.

Once you get it through, go inside the car, under the passenger side footwell, and find the wire. A bright color like the red I used works well.

Here are pictures:

This shows the battery and tape removed, and the red power wire inserted:


This shows a longer view: I have tie-strapped the power wire, and retaped the wires going through the grommet:



How can i add a switch to retract my antenna? (from z06vette forum)
I added a 12vdc rocker switch with a lamp at the console to: 1. Normally on, this will allow the antenna to rise and fall with the radio switch even when only playing CDs. 2. Off with this switch and the radio switch(green wire which goes throught the switch) will not allow the antenna to rise...switch off). This allows the CD player to be used and the antenna to be down. Without the switch, the antenna is always up even when playing the CD only. The switch is Radio Shack no. 275-712 Lighted SPST Rocker Switch... ~$3.00 I spliced into the three wires going to the antenna on the passenger side, and ran three wires to the switch: 1, from the accessory (green or pink wire) to the power lead on switch; 2, load the wire going back to the three wire green or pink wire that was cut; and 3, the black or ground wire for the lamp obtained by splicing into the black ground wire in the three wire going to the antenna. Whew, it took a while to find the green/pink wire needed.


How do I get the acc power for my h/u?
if you look in the passenger footwell, pull out the cover and look in the top left corner. There will be a small plug with three wires (orange, yellow, & black) that are just taped up. Check out this schematic to see which fuses they use, but the yellow wire is the +12V switched, and that I am sure of.

or you can use fuse 22

Where can I find plans to build my own sub box?
sub box plans
---------------------------------


general car audio faq

I have 4 speaker terminals on my sub...what gives?
This is called a dual voice coil sub (dvc) these subs configurations are very popular due to their flexibility in multi sub set ups. So how do you wire them up? Well you have to first find out what impedance (measured in 'ohms') your amp is stable to (note: the minimum impedance of a bridged 'channel' is usually double that of the minimum impedance of the separate stereo channels.
Most dvc subs are either 2 ohm per voice coil or 4 ohm per voice coil. Now you have three options to wire the two voice coils; in series, in parallel or to separate channels.
SERIES: This will 'add' the impedance of each voice coil. So if you have two 2 ohm voice coils wired in series it will equal a 4 ohm load. To wire them in series you'll take one of the positive speaker terminals on one of the voice coils and wire it to the negative terminal on the remaining voice coil. That will leave you with two 'open' terminals: a positive and a negative, wire them to the respective terminals on the amplifier.
PARALLEL: To figure out the final impedance of the speaker you will take the impedance value (2 ohms) and divide it by the number of voice coils (2). so if you have two 2 ohm voice coils wired in parallel you'll have a speaker with a final impedance of 1 ohm. This will cause most of the current amplifiers to go into protection mode and shut off when there is a strong bass hit. To wire the speaker in in parallel connect all the positive terminal to the positive terminal on the amplifier and likewise with the negative.

For an example, My 3-channel Xtant amplifier is stable to 2 ohms on channel 3. My sub is a dvc 4-ohm sub that i wired into a parallel to appear to the amp as a 2 ohm sub. (which my owners manual says is ok/recommended)

keep in mind that this can be applied to multiple subs as well. here is a link to some cool illustrations and calculators.
http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

Do I need rear speakers?
This is mostly a personal preference thing. The reasons why some people prefer only having front speakers is to achieve a particular soundstage. When you are sitting in the drivers seat and you close your eyes; on a properly set up front speaker system, you should be able to pick out each instruments location. When you add rear speakers this will pull your attention behind your head. Some people prefer this as they feel they are 'immersed' in the music. The final choice is up to you.

scott_fx

many thanks to Neil (QuickZilver) for this:


Installation of XM Commander in C5 Corvette
Note: Directions below are for C5 Corvettes without CD Changer and hooking XM up through AUX input.
Installation below is for 1999 – 2003 Corvettes

Parts needed:
XM Commander
Factory CD Changer Harness (purchased mine from Litewarehouse: $68.99)
PIE Auxiliary Input Connector, GM10-AUX (purchased mine from Litewarehouse: $66.99)
Short RCA cable
Double sided tape
3 Electrical Butt Connectors

Tools needed:
Common Screwdriver
Electrical Crimping Tool

How to do it:

1. Prep-Work: Remove passenger side floor mat and passenger side fuse panel cover. Remove passenger side plastic threshold (plastic part that covers the edge of the carpet at the door). Remove passenger side kick panel. Remove ash tray. All of this is just pulled off, no tools necessary.
2. Mount antenna at rear of car. Because the Corvette is fiberglass, it is not necessary to have it mounted on the outside of the vehicle. A couple of good places to mount it: Behind the taillights on the passenger side, Inner fender wheel well behind carpet (I chose this place to mount with double sided tape). After a suitable location is decided on, mount antenna and run antenna wire up on the passenger side, hiding the wiring as you go. Bring it up to the passenger side kick panel.
3. Wiring Harness: Use the auxiliary power source located in the passenger side fuse panel area to get power and ground. Route harness over to passenger side kick panel.
4. Controller: You do not need to remove the center console trim panel to install. Simply fish wire down through rear of ash tray location where you can see light. When you can grab the wire, pull through, leaving a little slack. Using Velcro included with XM Commander, mount controller in the upper area. You should be able to close the outer door. Run controller wire over to passenger side kick panel.
5. CD Changer cable: At the lower right hand corner of the fuse panel area, you should see a plug that looks like one of the two plugs on the CD Changer cable (directions included with the factory harness have a picture of this area). Taped to that wire or taped right near it is another plug that looks like the second plug on the cable. Cut the tape and plug both harnesses into the CD Changer harness. Route CD Changer harness under carpet at passenger side foot well (I used a zigzag pattern so it laid flat under the carpet. Leave enough to bring wire harness up passenger side kick panel.
6. XM Commander Control Box: Plug in the power wire harness, antenna, controller harness and RCA cables into control box. Put double sided tape on back of control box and find a suitable area up on the passenger side kick panel area. You may want to pull the lower dash trim loose to gain more access.
7. AUX Input Connector: Plug RCA cable and CD Changer harness to AUX Input Connector. Place AUX Input Connector up near XM Commander Control Box.
8. Reinstall trim that was removed during installation.
9. Test: Turn on car and turn on XM Commander. Press CD button on deck twice to access CD Changer. You should hear their test broadcast. If you don’t, go back to AUX adaptor and unplug CD Changer harness and plug back in.
10. Call XM Radio to sign up for service.
11. Enjoy cruising with your new XM Commander!

scott_fx

and a second version from lv_2_xlr8

scott_fx

Quickzilver is really pulling through strong.


How do I reduce road noise in my car?

Since I haven't done this mod yet I'll leave this up to the people who have already done it. I'll ask for permission and maybe integrate it into this thread. until then, here are some links:

http://www.myvette.us/Frost%20King%20Mod.htm (Pictures)

Mike Mercury's site (Great stuff here!):
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm

note; these examples are for frost king but the technique can be applied to dynamatt, fatmatt, brown bread, etc...


Here are some great and inexpensive sound deadening ideas:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...7&page=1&pp=10


Kales sound deadening 101

scott_fx

This section will link to one-off c5 products that have gotten great reviews from forum members (if you feel something has been left out or shouldn't be here let me know and i'll modify it accordingly):

ncr dave has developed and made connections to help us out with some common adaptors and boxes. he has a great rep on the forum for quality boxes.
NCR's box's and speaker adapters:
http://www.corvettecaraudio.com/



here are some h/u mounts that he can hook us up with too:





Vrum Vrum speakers adapters and H/U plates:
vrumvrum is a cf forum member that produces these high quality cnc'ed products. You'll have to send him a pm to arrange the sale:

speaker adapter: (i think he will custom cut for 3 way components as well)




h/u plate:





subthump 'stealth' boxes:
ON A PERSONAL NOTE; i had talked to the subthump people about building a modified box and he was very unhelpful. I will never give him any business, i only post his site on here to fair and give all possible options. Dave from corvette car audio was more then helpful and made a modified box for me with no questions asked.

scott_fx

I put the cartridge in my changer while the power was out. Now it does not want to eject. Is there a way (like computer CD Players) to manually force an eject?



Flat head screwdriver, hit the white pin in the top center.

Or un-screw the case and push it out from behind.

scott_fx

H/U led replacement how to:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show..._id=103&arch=1


Integrated C5 Cluster SHIFT LIGHT LED and ACCESSORY (nitrous) LED
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...d&forum_id=103

scott_fx

from 14U2ENV:
I found an illumination wire in the HVAC control plug. It is the cream colored wire in the end slot. (disregard the red dot on the wire, I slipped with the probe ) .

markcz

C5 Radio Schematics (click HERE for C6)
Click on the link, then right click/save as to copy it to your computer.

Vert Power Antenna

Coupe Antenna Module

BOSE prints

Radio Schematics 1/4 Radio, Power, Changer

Radio Schematics 2/4 RAP Controlled 12v Switched Power Locations

Radio Schematics 3/4 Bose Signal Processor

Radio Schematics 4/4 Speakers

Base NON-BOSE prints

Radio/Power

Speakers

R.A.P. (Good Luck!)

C5 Retained Accessory Power (1 of 2)

C5 Retained Accessory Power (2 of 2)



Plug Pin-Outs:

Radio Plugs (1 of 6) Bose Signal Processor

Radio Plugs (2 of 6) Bose Signal Processor (cont), Coupe Antenna Module

Radio Plugs (3 of 6) Radio C1 & C2

Radio Plugs (4 of 6) Radio C3 & C4, Vert Antenna Module (NOTE: If you have a pink wire instead of dark green, verify voltage before using it for anything. It may only be 5v.)

Radio Plugs (5 of 6) Changer, Left Speakers

Radio Plugs (6 of 6) Right Speakers


Wire Size Conversions
The GM schematics show wire sizes in the metric units of square mm, since we use AWG gauge sizes....

mm2 = AWG Size
0.22 = 24
0.35 = 22
0.5 = 20
0.8 = 18
1.0 = 16
2.0 = 14
3.0 = 12
5.0 = 10
8.0 = 8
13.0 = 6
19.0 = 4
32.0 = 2
50.0 = 1/0

....and a few more links that may help:

Basic Car Audio Electronics --- This site starts out explaining electrons, voltage, current, etc... and takes you all the way through building your own crossovers and enclosures.

AOEM kits for adding an amp to your stock radio.

ROEM kits for keeping the amps but changing the HU.


Keeping your aftermarket amp or HU powered with Retained Accessory Power (RAP)

This will allow your aftermarket amps to stay on after you turn off the car, just like the stock radio does.

If you still have the stock HU installed you can tap into the RAP circuit under the IP fuse box. If you have an aftermarket HU you'll need to buy either an Accessory Valet or SoundGate GMACC or Peripheral Electronics GMRAP, or wire up some relays using this schematic.

RAP for an amp WITH the stock HU still installed:
Pull up the fuse box (two or three screws and a plastic clip), on the grey connector (C2) pins E10 and F10 (both orange, I used F10 since it was on the bottom row and easier to get at) supply 12V RAP power to the stock radio amps. Even if you have a new amp installed, the radio will still be telling RAP to stay energized. Use something like this to supply an automotive relay that you can connect to your "remote" wire on the amp.

Using this diagram as a guide:
-run the C2/F10 wire tap to pin 86
-connect pin 85 to a ground
-tap into your +12V source going to the amp and connect it to pin 87
-connect your "remote trigger" amp wire to pin 30

The amp will be powered through the wire you're using now, but it will be triggered from the relay which is pulled in whenever the radio is on (even after the car is turned off and Retained Accessory Power is still on).


Trouble getting your stock head unit to recognize GM10-Aux?

Sometimes if you loose power to the radio (dead/disconnected battery), or unplug the GM10-Aux converter, your stock head unit may not want to go to or stay on "Disc 1 Track 1" like it should. After getting some advice from other forum members I put thogther this little procedure that has worked for me every time so far:

-unplug GM10-Aux from Cor-Har changer cable
-let it sit overnight (a few hours at least)
-with car still off, plug in GM10-Aux
-let it sit for at least 10 minutes
-turn on car & radio, select changer on radio
-if it works (Disc 1 Track 1) you're done
-if it doesn't work, leave car running but turn off radio
-unplug GM10-Aux, then reconnect it
-turn on radio, it should work


Adding an additional Aux Input if you already have a CD Changer

There is a link above to a .pdf that shows how to tap into your existing CD Changer wires in order to add an additional aux audio input. That link hasn't been working lately, so click here to view that .pdf as a .jpg (of course, that assumes that 'My Corvette Photos' is working )

FYI: If you use the C2/F10 RAP powered wire from my spiel above to pull in the relay, then you won't have to worry about turning off the switch when you get out of the car in order to prevent a drain on your battery.


A POSSIBLE fix to bad radio reception with an AFTERMARKET HU in a coupe

The coupe uses an amplified module to combine the windshield and hatch antenna leads before they connect to the HU. That module is powered by both 12V and 5V from the stock HU, the 12V is constant and the 5V is only present when the radio is playing. Aftermarket radios only supply the module with the 12V signal, click here and scroll down to post #4 to see how you can once again power your antenna module amplifier.

DIY Sub Box plans for CENTER TUB in C5

CLICK HERE for pdf


Link to Delphi pages at Mouser.com to build your own oem style plugs.

Aux Power Wires schematic.

scott_fx

thanks for catching that stuff mark, i added the info you posted as well, except for the pac audio stuff. Those websites change a lot and i would rather not link to them.... but they're in your post if someone wants to check it out.

I also added a section for one-off products for the c5 to make installations easier.

0EG@EnglandGreen

Thanks to Savewave for making this excellent FAQ a Sticky!

EG

dh305

Scott, hi. The forum is really lucky to have members like you. You returned pm and emails from me promptly and are again adding greatly needed information for others. I wish vendors were like you (that's another story). I am upgrading my already custom system with a 3-way in the front. I love VrumVrum's work, but I can't seem to get a response from my pm's or emails. Keep doing your thing!

JCGRCYA

Just want to give big props to Scott. He's been giving me advice and info regarding the install of an Alpine IVA-D900 head unit. Thanks again.

bogus

Look'n GREAT!!!!

MSIP

Hopefully educational, if not inspiring:

Alpine 9827, CDT door speakers, ID12 Sub, US Acoustics Amps (text follows)











More Images:
http://webpages.charter.net/mtsippel...-Amp_Mount.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/mtsippel...b_And_Amps.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/mtsippel...used_Block.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/mtsippel...lpine_9827.jpg


Text:

I have a new appreciation for those of you who have installed a new stereo system. I had the luxury of taking my car out of service for a week while my wife was out of town - here are some "lessons learned":

My System: Alpine CDA-9827 MP3 HU
CDT CL-61a 6.5" 2-way Component Fronts
Image Dynamics 12" 4-ohm DVC Sub (wired parallel to 2-ohms)
US Acoustics USB-2100 2-channel Amp
US Acoustics USB-600D Sub Amp
S-2 Sub Box from mike76002

1. Removals: To get the head unit out, console off, and door panels off I used a Corvette forum tech tip "C5 Stock Stereo Removal", a "how to install a Hurst shifter" tip and a "how to install new door handle pulls" tip, respectively. There are a few secrets and these documents helped a TON.

2. Carpet: To get the carpet out, start at the rear and work forward. The [coupe] hatch holders on the rear shelf turn 90 degrees and come off. There is a retainer ring around the hatch holder that also needs to be removed (pry up carefully). If you have a cargo net, the net clips need to be unscrewed from the posts (studs). Most of it just pulls out. I had the console off - the passenger side pulled out easily, but there is a plastic box under the accelerator pedal that needs to come out (use a socket on an extension) and a plastic box by the dead pedal that needs to be loosened (just remove the nut and it will loosen enough). Don't worry, the carpet goes back in without too much trouble, just start at the front and work to the back.

3. Battery Power Cable: Sneak the cable (I did a 4 gauge amp and 12 gauge HU wire) around behind the 2" rubber grommet behind the battery...pretty easy. Buy some Battery Side Terminal Extensions to attach your wires to the battery. I bought two, so I can upgrade the ground and power wires (see "How to Upgrade the Big 3 Wires" in tools\tech tips\C5). The existing side terminal metal posts can be pried out of their rubber housings and the new extensions inserted in their place.

4. Head Unit: I installed an Alpine HU from Crutchfield. I tried to pick up "switched power" and "illumination" from the factory harness. Neither one worked. I blew off the illumination thing but the switched power must be present for the radio to come on (I was pretty perturbed until I figured this out). You will need to pick up switched (ignition on) power from the passenger floorboard harness or a fuse panel. My HU is 6-7/8" deep and it barely fit. Actually it didn't fit (more perturbation), but then I figured out that I had forgotten to add the spacer ring to the Crutchfield supplied mount. You have to cut out the inner pieces (used for a shaft-mount radio) and add this spacer on the outside (front) of the mount (read the directions, DOH) which then pulls the unit forward so it can fit. It is still a tight fit...and you must bend the stock radio rear support toward the front of the car. UPDATE: this still was not sufficient. Radio was too deep, so I added some spacers behind the black spacer rings to move the radio out another 1/8"...it now works fine (it was binding before and would quit playing!?!?!)

5. Door Speakers: Running the wires is easy once you know about the weather shield plug (about 3" square) that aligns with the accordion on the door. It is accessible on the driver's side, but you must pull down the dash close-out panel on the passenger's side (you had to have this off to run the battery power cable anyway).

6. Ground: I ran the ground wire from the HU and from the amp to the outside passenger seat bolt and all is well. I had to enlarge the holes in my ring connectors with a Dremel Tool to get them to fit over the studs.

7. Accessory Input: I bought an Alpine KCA-121B RCA input adapter and some 6' RCA extensions and ran them to my console. I can use this to hook up an external source to my HU (such as a portable MP3 player or, eek-gads, a cassette player). The adapter and cables were only $20 and while I had the car apart...

8. Speaker Wires: I used 14 gauge from Wal-Mart (50ft for $9, oxygen-free copper, etc.).

9. Fuses: HU had a 10 amp near the unit, I added a 20 amp at the battery end of the 12 gauge HU power wire, 100 amp at the battery for the 4 gauge wire and 2x50 at the 4 to 8 gauge fused distribution block (mounted near the right rear wheel well), and the amps have their own. There are several kinds of fuses - if you buy a fuse holder, make sure you get the right type and size fuse for it.

10. Cost: I got all of my stuff, with factory warranties, for a little over $1000. Note that $173 of that was wire, connectors, and other "miscellaneous stuff."

11. Sound Deadening: Dynamat, Brown Bread, Fatmat, Cascade...it was too costly for me, but I did the Frost King mod (about $70 for the entire car) while I was in there with the carpet removed...flame suit is on...

12. Sub Box: Yeah, it would be pretty easy to build one, but I decided not to fool with it...got an S-2 box from mike76002 on the Corvette Forum...thanks Mike !!

13. Growth Provisions: I ran wires to the back of the car from all three RCA outputs of my HU, I added the RCA aux out adapter (see above), and I ran speaker outputs from the HU (long story, but my amps were back ordered and I used the HU amplifier for a while).

14. Crossovers: I stuck my door speaker crossovers under the passenger seat so I can get to them (they have a tweeter adjustment) and so they would not get rattled every time the door closed. Not fastened down, just stuck back there on the floor.

15. Rear Speakers: I had installed Infinity 652i rear speakers to replace the crappy stock speakers. I hooked them up to my HU and they sounded so bad compared to my CDT fronts that I disconnected them.

16. General Installation Issues: Get a large bottle of Advil ready...there is a lot of bending, stooping, crawling, and scooting around on your back involved...but then, I'm nearing 50! I used a towel to kneel on while working on the floors and used a "pickle bucket" to sit on while I worked on the doors.

17. Seats: Mine are electric. There are two connectors on the driver's seat and one on the passenger seat. The connectors are locked together with barbs like most of the other connectors on the car. They will come apart without breaking, just be careful, study the connector carefully, and use a small screwdriver to pry on the barb holders. They are also attached to the seat with a sliding connector that is very firmly attached. I slid the connector off of the seat part. The seats unbolt easily (I did the rear bolts first, then slid the seat back to do the fronts) and are not too heavy, but cover the door sills with towels to keep from scratching them. The front bolts are under some plastic covers that snap off with some gentle persuasion (they are a bit fragile).

18. Wires: Maybe I'm paranoid, but I marked all of the wire ends with labels (right front speaker, etc.) and I used a continuity checker to verify all of the wires after crimping (or soldering) and taping them. Pretty soon you have a lot of wires lying all over the place. The continuity checker was useful when the radio wouldn't power up and I used it to figure out that the ignition power was not hot (explained above). A spare stiff wire is handy to fish wires up through the back of the dash and into the doors through the accordion tubes.

19. Loose Parts and Tools: I separately bagged groups of nuts, fasteners, trim, etc. for each area - keeping each subassembly together helps get it back together. DO NOT SET DOWN ANY TOOLS OR PARTS UNDER THE HOOD - you will just knock them off and they will fall under the battery or you may leave them under there!!! Just put a snack tray or card table or something next to you and set tools down on it. I also tried to periodically pick up all the loose tools lying around and I kept them in a cardboard box for re-use (yes, I was too lazy to roll my toolbox out to the car).

20. Amp Mounting: I mounted my two amps on the back wall between the hatch latches (I have a coupe). I tried to epoxy wood strips to the back wall, but the surface is curved and it would not stick...I gave up and drove three screws through each 2" x 23" 1/2" MDF board...the thought of the amps landing in the front seat after a wreck did not appeal to me and the holes will be forever behind the carpet...

<note: I recently had a 25 mph head-on accident and my amps pulled loose from the back wall...so mount them FIRMLY>

Let me just finally say that I could not have done this without the extensive help I got from this forum...THANKS!!!

pianoprodigy

Perhaps I've missed it, but I've read through this thread several times, and haven't found a "checklist" of things to have to install an aftermarket deck while retaining the stock Bose speakers and amps.

I'll start this part of the FAQ and feel free to copy/edit my post to complete the missing parts.

What parts do I need to install and aftermarket head unit (CD player) and retain the Bose speakers and amps?

1. A mounting adapter that converts the 1.5 DIN slot (where can these be purchased online?) Does the VrumVrum plate function as the entire adapter or just a "cover up" to make everything look better?

2. A wiring adapter to interface the high-power signal from the head unit to the with the Bose amplifiers for the "subs" in the doors. (Soundgate - GMCRV1)

3. An antenna adapter (where can these be purchased online?)

4. A head unit (obviously)

I'll be willing to take pictures of anything and everything when I do the installation.

jawzforlife

I need to know this info too.

Karl_in_Chicago

This link isn't working. Is this info available elsewhere? I'm specifically interested in hooking up a portable XM unit to my CD changer.

scott_fx

vrum vrum's plate is an all in one piece. it's all you'll need to mount the singal din h/u.

the wiring adapter from soundgate has gotten a lot of good reviews on here, pac-audio also makes a bose interface.

i don't have fm on my car computer so i'm not sure where to find the adapter online. i'd say crutchfield would be a safe place to start looking.


for powerdoc's mod you'll need a st4p relay (single throw, four post) a toggle switch, and a mini stereo jack (headphone jack) or rca cable with appropriate ends (probably female)

It's been a long time since i've looked at the cd changer harness so you'll have to use some common sense when splicing. but basically you are going to 'hijack' the audio lines in the harness, to figure these out they should be the four wires that match another wire. they may be grey and white and matching grey with black stripe and white with black stripe. these are the audio inputs. you need to cut these wires and hook them up to the relay so that when there isn't any power going to the switching post those wires are connected. now you have four more posts on the relay, this will be for the r+, r-, l+, l- leads from your rca or mini stereo jack. hook these up so when the relay is switched those leads are connected to the leads that go to the radio (from the harness)

after that, you just have to wire 12v+ to a switch that is connected to the switching post on the relay.

the one catch is that you must have a cd in the magazine in order for the aux button on the h/u to work. The reason for this is that there is one wire in the harness that is a signal wire. it tells the h/u that there is a cd playing in the changer and to keep it in 'aux' mode'

i hope this is clear. pm me or post here if i need to make things clearer.

scott_fx

how relays work:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf