H82GOSLW

I am planning on removing the stock exhaust (putting on new headers and hi flow cats) from my '98 coupe. My buddy who's helping me says we have to cut the exhaust to get it out. I'm sure many of you have experience removing this, so any and all advice would be appreciated. Really don't want to cut it anywhere in case I have to reinstall on the car or sell it. Thanks in advance for your help.
By the way, the car is a 6 speed if it makes a difference.


[Modified by kawipower, 9:52 PM 1/7/2004]

Z06_2002

On my C5 which is an automatic I had to cut it off, I didn't see any other way of getting it off. On my Z it came right out with no problems. :cheers:

C7LOU

You don't have to cut it, but you have to have the back of the car up in the air quite a ways to have enough room to get it off. I've done two of them and didn't cut either one off. You unhook the sway bar and let it drop down and then if the car's high enough you can get the back section off without cutting it. I don't remember exactly how high the car has to be, but probably in the 30" range. Your best bet is on a lift.

Mike Mercury

worth repeating... You don't have to cut it,

Either on a lift or the rear jacked high enough, I can have the stock mufflers off in less than 15 minutes. And I have an A4.

00pewterpower

:iagree:
This is correct you don't have to cut just have to get the rear high enough to swing the exhaust around the axels. Also drop sway bar on the right side and on A4s remove the gas tank heat sheild on the right side (two bolts). If you dont remove the heat sheild the cat back to hpipe flange won't clear. :thumbs:

bhvette97

I just changed all my exhaust parts on my 97 and did not cut anything. I used a lift Didn't take very long at that. Takes alot longer to put on the aftermarket parts. I would try to find someone who has a lift. :thumbs: :chevy I did have to drop the sway bar.


[Modified by bhvette97, 3:17 AM 1/8/2004]

gojo

On an A4, in addition to all of the above, you have to remove the heat shield. Two bolts. It's on the passenger side next to the exhaust flange.
No cutting on either.


[Modified by gojo, 10:22 PM 1/7/2004]

Cocked and Locked

[QUOTE]On an A4, in addition to all of the above, you have to remove the heat shield. Two bolts. It's on the passenger side next to the exhaust flange.
No cutting on either.


:iagree: Just took mine off Sunday to install the Borla's. NO CUTTING

LivinTheDream

:iagree:

Get it on a lift if you can. No cuts required, but you need it at least 30 inches up.

vettatude

I didn't have to remove it on my A4, but each car is different. Try it first w/o removing the heat shield, might save a few minutes. :thumbs:

DelMonteZO6

How much work goes into putting headers on?? I was told is was a HUGE PITA!!! :flag

H82GOSLW

Thanks for all your help fellas. I'll be doing the install probably next weekend if it stops snowing long enough to get my car to my buddy's lift. It's -5 to-10 degrees for the next 4 or 5 days. Not good driving weather for the vette. Can't wait till spring gets here!!!

Mike Mercury

interesting... that I never had to do that (heat shield). Is this a model-year specific thing?

Dave68

Get it up at LEAST 31 inches. That's how high mine was before we removed the right side pipe over the axel.

jl240z

I just removed mine today. My floor jack would not raise it high enough. I had to put 3 2x8 squares of wood stacked up on the jack pad to get the rear high enuf. I placed 2- 2" thick conc pavers under each jack stand and a 2" wood spacer on top to rest the car on. The front has to be up as well or it will hit the ground. I made it level with the rear as I am doing the trans & diff oil change also. This gave me barely enuf room to do it. I unbolted the flanges and muffler hanges then I rotated it around the halfshaft which brings the muff down to the floor then rotate the muff towards the outside of the car and it comes right out. I put the Ti system on in the reverse order. Before I tightened all the bolts I clamped a straight piece of wood to the bottom of all four tips. The sway bar didnt seem to be in the way but since I was changing the end links I took it off anyway just in case. I dont think the flange gaskets should be reused as they have what looks to be a compression ring on the edge of the hole. The flanges of the Ti system dont seem to mate as well with the h-pipe but until I start it up I wont know if I will have an exhaust leak or not. If you have access to a lift this will be a whole lot quicker for sure. But I can think of worse ways to spend an afternoon. Take your time and enjoy the results of your labor :steering: :thumbs:

wlean99

my 99 manual vette exhaust,rt rear section completely broke the weld at the flange dropping the pipe down, I popped it back in and lined up pipes,ground small digits on flange and old weld.chained up rest of unit to frame to get it to a shop to eventually get it re-welded,do they need to completely grind off the old weld material for permanent repair,also is it better to remove and bench weld.,or just weld in place?+ what is a reasonable price for this type of repair,in NJ,thanks wl

wlean99

pardon my ignorance but what is an a4?

CactusCat

4 speed automatic tranny and so you'll know... a m6 is a 6 speed manual tranny.

lionelhutz

If you're just installing headers and the catted mid pipe then you just unbolt the stock catback (or mufflers) and bolt them back up to the new system. The midpipe removes very easily by undoing about 12 bolts and dropping it straight down. Pull the plugs, undo the dipstick and then unbolt the manifolds and pull them out. Don't break the coolant sensor.

Mattie Num Nums

I ended up cutting the (facing the rear) left axel back portion. Just wouldn't clear by maybe 2 inches. We had the car about as far up as humanly possible. I was able to cut the thing off rather easy using a 25 dollar Harbor Freight tool and some WD40.