Tourney3p0

Yesterday my car started making a metal rubbing, almost a screeching sound coming from my passenger side rear wheel. I can tell that it coincides with how fast my wheel is turning, as the rubbing gets quicker as the car does.

It sounds like metal on metal. I took the wheel off and inspected, and there was nothing obvious wrong in there. I removed the pads (Hawk Performance) to inspect them and they looked fine with no uneven wear. There is no horizontal or vertical movement in the wheel.

It almost sounds like brake pads or something grinding into the rotor, so I'm going to pick up a dirt cheap set today and swap it out for a few minutes so I can rule them out. What else could it be? Wheel bearing?

Tourney3p0

I'm thinking also maybe a stuck caliper. Is there any way to troubleshoot this?

bogus

if it ain't the pads... check the wheel bearing or u-joint.

the easiest way to check for a bad caliper is to grab the piston with big **** pair of channell locks and SQUEEZE! if nothing else, it will free up the piston.

also, make sure the pins are clean and well lubed with anti-sieze!!!


[Modified by bogus, 8:34 AM 1/6/2004]

Tourney3p0

When I was checking my brake pads, I completely removed them and used a C-clamp to push the piston back down. I guess that means it's not frozen up, but I wasn't sure if this was a sufficient test.

It doesn't sound like any wheel bearing I've ever heard. Still, I'm really not putting much hope in it being the brake pad since everything looked to be in great shape, visually. The only thing I can think of is one of the rocking retainer pieces on the outside brake pad was a little loose, so maybe I have some movement in there. I tightened it up and it didn't seem to help.

jp2002ls1

Front or Rear?
If rear, check your parking brake.
If front check your caliper, there may be a stone stuck between your pad and rotor, or check wheel bearing for play.

Tourney3p0

It's rear, but I have no working parking brake. It was this way when I bought the vehicle. I have plans to fix this eventually but I'm working on some other nagging issues at the moment. This squealing that just came up, I am considering a little more serious than a nagging issue.

85RIT

A u-joint would be more of a tick....

Maybe your pads are just wore, is the sqeaker hitting the rotor??

Other then that I would vote wheel bearing.

Tourney3p0

Just out of curiosity, what would a wheel bearing sound like? The ones I've heard in the past sound like a high pitched squeal, or maybe a chirp. Also I've almost always had vertical 12-6 movement. Admittedly though, my experience with bad wheel bearings is limited to say the least.

It sounds almost exactly like something scraping the rotor as it turns, but I'm not seeing any grooves in the rotor. The pads look almost brand new, and I don't see anything at all that would be touching the rotor in a normal, working setup.

Steel Blue 91

With the wheel and tire in place, raise the car. Movement by pushing and pulling at the 12 and 6 position would indicate a wheel bearing. Movement at the 9 and 3 positions indicates suspension issues.

Tourney3p0

I don't have any horizontal or vertical movement in the wheel. Could it still be a wheel bearing without any vertical movement?


[Modified by Tourney3p0, 10:08 AM 1/6/2004]

scorp508

Generally no because when a wheel bearing goes the bearing has worn so that there is excessive clearence allowing the unit to rock in itself.

Tourney3p0

:cheers:

I appreciate the help. I'll see what I can do and follow up when I figure it out.

Trog

Did you try jacking it up & turning the wheel by hand?? It could be somthing even rubbing on the half shaft?? Like a disconnected e-brake line?? :smash:

chb88

I am doing wheel bearings on a 94 now and the sound I was getting was a grinding, much like the sound you get when you first apply the brakes on a rusty rotor. In my case I had about 3/16" movement at 6 and 12 o clock. Could something have lodged between the ABS sensor and the toothed rotor on the hub? Try removing the ABS sensor and see if anything falls out.
Just my 2 cents :leaving:

Tourney3p0

Alright guys, I went home on my lunch break and changed my rear brake pads. The sound is still there so it's not that.

I verified that I have absolutely no movement between 12 and 6 or 3 and 9, or anywhere in between. It's solid as a rock.

Good idea on the wheel sensor. I'll remove that when I get home and make sure it looks okay in there.

Here's one thing I'm not sure about.. I had to use a c-clamp to push the piston in when I was changing the brake pads. There was normal resistence with the c-clamp, but after it was pushed in I could freely move the piston in and out of the caliper with my hand. This doesn't seem like it's right to me. Is this okay or might it indicate a bad caliper?


[Modified by Tourney3p0, 12:49 PM 1/6/2004]

bogus

thats normal... once you push the fluid out, any pressure that was holding the piston in place has been relieved.

I would also check the tires... duh... make sure you don't have any cord showing!

I hate to suggest rear diff, tho... ick.

Tourney3p0

If this was the case, would the sound be coming from the center of the rear? Mine is definitely coming from closer to the wheel.

How about a warped rotor? Again though, I'm not seeing any uneven wear on the rotor or the brake pad.


[Modified by Tourney3p0, 5:39 PM 1/6/2004]

Tourney3p0

I was able to jack up the rear end of the car and put it in neutral. It's not in my brakes at all. The sound is coming from the far end of the half shaft on the rear passenger's side.. I believe this is u-joints. I'll look to the archives and my Helms manual for further assistance.

Thanks guys.

flyersfan1088

I was just going to suggest U-joints. I thought mine was a bearing until I noticed a grinding noise when I jerked up on the bottom of the wheel and brought it through a range of suspension travel. Same exact noise you described when driving.