carbster09

OK, this is maybe normal, but my big block is cooking my feet down here in texas. Is this normal? The damn thing puts out so much heat that I need AC and then it runs hot! :(

What did they do in 1971?

Any ideas? Maybe there's actually something wrong....I wonder? :confused:

Also any ideas on a door what squeaks driving down the road. I have oiled/greased and messed with it to no avail

Carbster09 :cuss

marky mark

Sound like my car!!! Welcome to the wonderful world of big block 'Vettes!!!

Bad news .... it's perfectly normal.

Good news.... you can make improvements to help.

Heres some of what I did: (It helped that I had the engine & tranny out at the time):

Installed the thermal blankets under the driver and passenger compartments under the car (it attaches with a lot of clips).

Next the tunnel insulation piece. This goes above the tranny, a very big help I think

Then the foam collar that goes around the bellhousing (on the top and sides of the bellhousing). Keeps hot air from entering.

Then the reflective heat fabric that is thin enough to slide under the interior's front carpet. Do this all the way from were the carpet starts up near the firewall to the friont of the seats especially the tranny tunnel.

Then, remove the console and put some under there also. Try and cover as much as possible under there as heat will come up from the shifter, etc.

Another little thing that helps more with engine cooling is the front air dam.

Finally, look up under the dash and see if there are many openings to the firewall. Some of the rubber grommets that were put there to keep the air out might have fallen out. Kind of tough to work up in that area so I never got that done. It is kind of "porous" up in there!

All in all the results were very good! It still is warm but I can now drive it in my bare feet and not have any problem which is saying something.

Basically, if you don't do anything else do what you can to stop the hot air from entering through the tranny tunnel and install the stuff under the carpets, but buy the good stuff although it ain't cheap.

Oh make sure your heater isn't on!!!

Oh, my squeak sounds like it might be coming from either the door or the front cowling near where the doors and fenders meet. Haven't been able to locate it.

Good luck!

Regards, Mark :flag :chevy


[Modified by marky mark, 1:13 AM 9/24/2003]

1979toy

Mark that is the most complete listing of fixes for interior heat that I've ever seen. :cheers:

I'm doing a cut, paste and print to keep it on the garage wall to use as a checklist.

vettfixr

This topic's come up so many times i submitted a tech tip on it. Read the tech tip but briefly it's usually caused by the AC/Heater intake plenum pulling in hot air from the exhaust. The tech tip tells you how to fix it. Here's the link https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=241&TopicID=3

WeasleVette454

My '71 big block does the same thing to me. BOY does it get hot!! I too am going to cut and paste the to do list to help cut down on interior heat. I still think a set of the Hooker sides with a bit of JetHot action will help too!! :yesnod:

Weasle :D

carbster09

Guys thanks for all of the advice. I see I have a little project on my hands! :cheers:

You know I was beginning to think I had a problem. :D

Carbster09

'71 Ont. Orange LS-5

zwede

Excellent checklist above! I have done all the steps except I'm missing the foam collar. Mine does not get hot at all. I think the coated headers help.

marky mark

I seem to have better luck with these kinds of things than I do with longevity of the big block motors themselves. The next one will be my third in three years, OUCH! Saving up for a crate motor I think, will be best for me.

Glad this was of some help.

For vendors I believe I used these: Eckler's , Dr. Rebuild and perhaps Zip.

On the engine cooling I forgot to mention the rubber strips that come in a kit for the radiator & it's frame. Also, the "half" sized under hood blanket helps some. A 160 therm really works as does an aluminum Edelbrock water pump. Some might go with a 180 therm as the 160 might actually be too cool if thats possible. And the fan clutch must be working properly.

Glad to have been of some assistance.

regards, Mark

pzcg7l

:iagree:

They all transmit heat like that....Marky Mark's list is excellent - very thorough...

:steering:

GATOR454

Here is a link to a C5 insulation project. It was done primarily to reduce noise but I'm sure it will also help with heat. Plus it looks really nice before the carpet insall.
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm

Chuck Harmon

I have really become a rabid fan of Dynamat Xtreme. It is thin and very efficient in reducing both noise and heat. My concern with the thicker insulation over the trans tunnel is that it does reduce the air flow over the trans, which it needs, to cool it. This is not much of a concern for a daily driver that doesn't make much power on a regular basis, but for a car driven harder it is an issue. dynamat is very sticky and would be be put on the outside of the foot wells. They would also be protected by the tin splash shields. If the inside of the trans tunnel was really well cleaned and degreased, I think it would even sitck long term there.

I put dynamat on the complete inside of my passenger compartment, and am very satisfied. But I think it would be even better to have the aluminum surface shield be the first barrier to the heat instead of the last barrier.

Chuck

p.s. I should add that I also did the complete inside of my ZO6 which is my daily driver. It greatly reduced the road noise!


[Modified by Chuck Harmon, 10:22 AM 9/24/2003]

jpatrick636

After I did most of the things mentioned in this post, which helped a great deal, it just so happened that it was time for a new radiator. I went with a Be Cool aluminium and Spal fans. I noticed a major change in cabin temperature as I could now run around 180 degrees. I also noticed a further reduction in cabin heat when I had a 3" exhaust installed.

77-C3 & 89-C4

Best and easy thing to do is Remove the Heater Hoses. That will help some.