Red ZEE06

The turn signal switch broke off on my 86 vette. (pants leg caught as I was getting in the car)

Has anyone replaced the switch? How difficult and time consuming is the job?

vinnies87

Mines broke too... have new cam, lever & actuator. Looked it up in Chilton manual and for a novice (like me) think i'd be better off taking it to my vette mechanic...

Fr Guido Sarducci

It's not impossible you just need a few special tools, steering wheel puller you should be able to get anywhere for ten bucks or so, the next tool is a little more specialized, it may be available (I didn't look for one) I made one out of some scrap angle material, it is used to push the spring loaded locking plate down so you can pull the clip. other than removing the locking plate most of it is fairly straight forward.

MrRenoman

When you say you broke the switch, are you referring to the stalk or are you refering to the actual switch which is in the column? If it's just the stalk, that can probably be replaced without dismantling the column. If it's the switch which is the part that the stalk is inserted into, then that will require dismantling of a portion of the column.

gh86E

Nah. The stalk pulls off quite easily. The problem is getting the old cable out of the steering column, and the new cable in. That was entertaining. I replaced the turn signal stalk and ignition cylinder on my '86. Sears sells the lock plate depresser tool ($10, maybe $20 as I recall).

The steering assembly, esp. around the turn signal side, is a rather interesting 3D puzzle. I cut off the old cable at right at the stalk, taped the new cable to it, and tried to pull it through the column to underneath the dash. Trouble is, I had to loosen up some screws holding the turn signal switch assembly. The whole thing flew apart, and I had a number of unrecognizable pieces. But I just went at it like it was a 3D puzzle, and found the solution. Got it all back together, it all worked, but I hope I never have to replace the actual turn signal switch. And there's few things I say I won't do on that car anymore (I'll even replace the heater core when that goes. But that switch, I don't know).

Red ZEE06

The stalk is fine. The switch broke where the stalk is inserted. Sounds like "cheap vet" and gh86e are right on target.

You need the tool to depress the locking plate and remove a locking wedge. The wires then have to be fished to under the dash. Doesn't seem too hard to do. Probably time consuming if you've never done it before!

Kens86

These links were helpful to me
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/susp..._steering.html http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html

Had the column apart in one weekend - parts bought during the middle of the week - back on the road the following weekend.

There are also posting on this topic in the archives that are useful.

My experience was that I ended up buying more parts do to age. (Plastic bushings and parts old and cracked.

Good Luck. :thumbs: [IMG][/IMG] :thumbs: [IMG][/IMG]

gh86E

If it's the mechanical latch (for want of a better term) inside the column that the stalk plugs in, which provides the 'return-to-home' functionality of the turn signal (e.g., when you have the right turn signal on, then turn sharply right then back again, the turn signal stalk returns to center or off position)., then this isn't bad to get to and replace. If I remember correctly, the actual turn signal switch is buried further down in the column. That's what would be nasty to replace. But the mechanical latch that the stalk snaps in to isn't bad, again, if I remember correctly. That was 2 years ago I went through that (and a lot happened since). Just get a steering wheel puller, a lock plate depresser (for GM models - the Sears one fits several brands), and save everything in the order it came off, and in the direction it came off. If you don't have to replace the stalk (and therefore pull a new wire through the column), it won't be bad. My guess is 1 hour total.

On the 86's, there's a plastic 'key-in' switch that detects if the key is currently inserted. It's in front of the ignition cylinder. Replace that - the plastic will be quite brittle, and it'll be just a matter of time before it goes (it's only $7 or so). The new design will also be very easy to insert, as compared to what the original assembler must have went through. While you have the column apart, replace that switch. If you have a Haynes manual (Chevrolet Corvette, 1984 thru 1996), figure 7.5 on page 12-8 shows replacing this (they call it the key warning buzzer switch). In the 1986 Shop Manual, it's shown on page 3B5-6. Heck, I'd even suggest replacing your lock cylinder while in there. They are a fairly common failure item.

Red ZEE06

I think you are right. Went to the chevy dealer and looked at the computerized parts list. It looks klike what broke is called a "Switch, Activator"

It may be an easier fix that removing the switch and wires!

vinnies87

Red: Just finished with mine, and didn't have to replace the cancel unit, just the switch actuator and put new lever on while i was there... Job went very easy, tho i did buy @ Sears/Craftman 2 tool - (1) steering wheel puller (only for steering wheels & the (2) cam compressor tools... once all removed, just took the screws out of the cancel unit and replaced the actuator and lever...

86C4Z51

If you have the puller for the steering wheel and the pusher for the lock plate, it's really not that difficult. Just did mine last fall with a homemade pusher. You need a couple long bolts... The turn lever itself I found on Eckler's for $90 *gasp* but eBay you can find one cheaper if you don't want a new GM part.

On mine, I think it's the two cruise control wires; one is bad, as my cruise is out. When I first got the car, it would work if I held the switch in "just the right spot," but that doesn't make for relaxed driving. No long road trips on the freeway.