1986vert

I just pulled the rear wheels off my 88 so I could get at the for lack of a
better word the mud flaps to pull them off and clean them up. I put the wheels back on and tighten them snug and then went to torque them and one
of the lugs on the left would not torque and it also won't come off. It is tight
as the wheel doesn't wobble when I take the other 4 off, so how do I fix this
one ? The wheels are AFS ZR1 standard 9.5 " and I am using the lugs that came with the wheels. Any one have any ideas ??? :confused:


Just wanted to update on what I did to get the lug nut off. We tack welded the stud to the hub and they after getting the wheel off we found that the only
over size stud I could find was still rotate after getting to 80 pounds torque, so I made the decision to just weld the stud to the hub and put everything back together and torqued the nuts and no more spinning stud. It can even be gotten to if it ever needs to be removed. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, as I used a little of each to fix the problem.


[Modified by lee.anderson, 3:23 PM 7/1/2003]


[Modified by lee.anderson, 3:24 PM 7/1/2003]

ciscokid

It sounds like a stud is turning. Is that what is happening?

bogus

exactly... but it is nearly impossible to see it...

1986vert

That is what I assume is happening, but I can't tell as I don't think I can see
it to find out.


[Modified by lee.anderson, 4:37 PM 6/29/2003]

ciscokid

How tight is the lug nut on the stud?

Bluewasp

I would try an air gun. don't hold the trigger down but give the nut a few quick blasts with the air gun... That might do the trick. otherwise your going to have to cut it off.

ciscokid

Are you sure it is the stud and not the lug nut that is stripped?

Southern Comfort

That does not sound like fun. good luck :U

1986vert

I have tried the air gun trick and nothing, tried it both ways and I am not sure if it is the stud or the lug, as I can't see how you can see the stud. How
would I go about having to cut it off if it comes to that as there isn't any space between the wheel and the rotor ??

65Z01

Cut through the nut 180 deg apart and split it off the stud.

1986vert

The lug is not rounded off at all and it is snug to the wheel and I don't think there is enough room to saw on the nut because of the way it sit down into the wheel, so any other ideas ???

65Z01

Though the nut is tapered into the wheel I was thinking that perhaps you could get enough cut into it with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to use a cold chizzel to split it open.

I'm sure it would require some cut into the stud to get deep enough into the nut.

PeteL

On my 89 the stud and nut were stripped (the threads, not the stud to hub splines). After messing with the dang thing for quite a while we finally had to take an air chisel and split the nut. Then pressed the stud out and replaced. Actually had two of these. Before giving up, try and get a forked lever under the nut and slowly try and start it (backing off).

If the stud has stripped at the hub, then over-sized-splined studs are available.

Good luck,

Pete

NavyVet

Leem there is no room on the AFS wheels to get in there with a dremel or anything I can think of to cut the lugnut. I am assuming the lugnuts you got from AFS are chrome full nuts, not open ended ones? First, I'd turn the offending lugnut while looking behind the tire and into the center of the rotor where you can see the ends of the studs - you will need a friend! If the stud isn't turning - it shouldn't - it takes a lot to turn one through the grroves it's pressed in with - I'd probably use a hammer to "whack" the end of the lugnut - to see if I could at least reverse the standing force against the threads - and then hit it with a strong impact gun pushed up to around 130 pounds or so. I'm betting it's stripped and the stud is still tight. Also a little WD-40 at the base might ease any lock up you might be getting from a bur on the lug - maybe? Please let us know. good luck. Paul

1986vert

Thanks for all the suggestions, I am going to make it project tomorrow to
try as many as I can and see what if anything works. Keep the ideas coiming if anyone has anymore.

ciscokid

I think NavyVet is on to something. Are your lugs full lugs or are they open on the ends? The first thing you need to do is determine whether your lug is spinning or your stud. You must be able to see the front of the stud. If your lugs are open then turn the lug and look at the stud. Is the stud turning or the nut? If you lugs are full lugs then grind the tip off the lug until you can see the stud. Until you can determine just what it is that is turning, you can't form you plan of attack. Let us know.

vette92_1

If your lugs have through holes to were you can see the stud, maybe you can turn it with a boxed end wrench to see if the stud is turning. If it is, I would drill out the stud with a carbide drill bit and then replace. If the lug is stripped on to the stud just swist it off, knock out the broken part of the stud and then replace.

Brimis

I just had the same problem with my 84. I could not remove the locking lug. I was going to hand chisel it off, but that became a little sloppy. I have an air gun, but no chisel bit. I drove the car to a local shop, the fellow took out his chisel, grinded it a bit and with an air gun chiseled the lug off in 30 seconds. It cost me $6.00. Best $6.00 I ever spent!
:auto:

loflyin

I know that exhaust bolts and other frustrating situations with nuts respond pretty well to heat. Just put a torch on it and then try to remove it with an air wrench once it is good and hot. Not sure about the heat on those rims, though. Wouldn't want to cause a problem there. Any opinions on that? You said that the rim is tight, so Brimis might have the answer and you just drive it to a friendly neighborhood mechanic who has certainly faced this more than once and let him fight it for a modest fee (could definitely be worth it).

1986vert

Well guys I found out it is the stud turning, so do I tack weld it to get the lug
off or try and chissel it off, or any ideas ???